Capacitator

[crash9201 10+ year member]

for the record I used to use caps as well because when I first started I was steered in that direction. But then I realized that through making sure your amps are grounded sufficiently (most don't realize the importance of this) and just upgrading to a dry cell battery under the hood, i solved all my power needs. Depending on the car, I have a Civic with a 70 amp alt, as long as you are in the
really? isnt a spv35 smaller than then an spv44? ive got an spv 44 in the trunk and if im wanging really hard my voltage drops to 12.X from 14.X; then again i dunno what the stock alt is rated at

 

[slim2fattycake 10+ year member]

I'd do the big 3 first at least to see if that helps before buying a cap. I used a cap before when someone told me I needed a cap if i was to run my amp (at the time 1200 watts). I was getting dimming every time I went to neutral at a light. When I took the cap off and upgraded the wiring, the dimming was gone.

Don't waste your money on caps. Upgrade your wiring.

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

really? isnt a spv35 smaller than then an spv44? ive got an spv 44 in the trunk and if im wanging really hard my voltage drops to 12.X from 14.X; then again i dunno what the stock alt is rated at

Because 12.8V is the standard floating voltage of a batt. You need a bigger alt to sustain above 12.8V. I have yet to test the Altima's alt, but if you find a way to easily remove/replace the alternator, let me know. I'm dreading doing it in mine.

I can run 2 of the C&D UPS12-475s on an Orion 2500D full blast(Near 3kW, but really about 2500-2600 after impedance rise) at 1 ohm, and it drops from 12.8V to 12.4-12.3V(At the amp) with no alternator or charger. I can do this for about 15 mins before it gets to 12.70V dropping to 12.1V.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

OP, you came here for advice from what I'm assuming people that know more than you... If you knew more than everyone here, you wouldn't have had the question in the first place. Now, the effectiveness of caps is probably one of the most debated topics when it comes to car audio. Some say they work, some say they are a waste of money. Do a little searching and you will see for yourself.
Like you, I also hate asking a question and not getting an answer to that question but getting a bunch of info you weren't looking for. However, when a bunch of people make the same suggestion on a topic common sense usually says maybe you should consider what they are saying. After all you came here because you figured most here know more than you. The smart thing to do would be to consider what people are saying and go from there.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

I figured he was trolling and I didn't care. My boss is gone and it's raining out.

 

[basscort2009 5,000+ posts]

Ugh. Let the guy do what he wants, I hate people like him. Presenting so much evidence then they says "LOL, I'ma go wit teh shiz that I sawd yesta'day cuz I no it werk."
Dude, just get a battery. This is coming from a person that has been in the electrical field for nearing 8 years. Large capacitors at this voltage are meant for light duty high freq on demand filtering, not drawing a shit ton of current for a long period of time in a filter application.

I refuse to recommend you a capacitor. That 80F cap probably has a really high ESR anyways. They can say otherwise, but how will you honestly know? You're seriously considering a capacitor anyways.

Edit: To the "kids liking them" comment. I like having a battery bank to show them and them going holy WTF. I have yet to have someone tell me that I should get a cap

but batteries dont have flashy lights silly //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif lol. yea like the oher guy said its a losing battle. i give up. sry OP i tried lol

 

[basscort2009 5,000+ posts]

Because 12.8V is the standard floating voltage of a batt. You need a bigger alt to sustain above 12.8V. I have yet to test the Altima's alt, but if you find a way to easily remove/replace the alternator, let me know. I'm dreading doing it in mine.
I can run 2 of the C&D UPS12-475s on an Orion 2500D full blast(Near 3kW, but really about 2500-2600 after impedance rise) at 1 ohm, and it drops from 12.8V to 12.4-12.3V(At the amp) with no alternator or charger. I can do this for about 15 mins before it gets to 12.70V dropping to 12.1V.

that gets me hard hearing that. lol c&d's FTMFW

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

that gets me hard hearing that. lol c&d's FTMFW

I'm sure it does. I really like 'em.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

really? isnt a spv35 smaller than then an spv44? ive got an spv 44 in the trunk and if im wanging really hard my voltage drops to 12.X from 14.X; then again i dunno what the stock alt is rated at

it sure is. its the batt that stinger has thats specified for hondas/acuras, since they are an odd size. under normal listening, im not a big basshead, thats where voltage usually stays. if it ever does drop below there its certainly not for long and its not that often. both my pdx's are running at 4 ohm and are pretty easy on my electrical. my JBL crown amps and Planet audio's i used to have i got some pretty big voltage drops though. i also redid my ground in the trunk and upgraded the battery ground so that could have something to do with it also.