Can you get good sound from quality coaxes .....

[NE14MX 10+ year member]

I just got a new car (09 civic) and the audio in it just doesn't cut it. No frequency separation and just painful when any volume is applied. My mazda had high end Image Dynamic comps, sub with sundown amps with proper deadening installation. I don't want to go through all of that this time and want a simple, lightweight system in the new car. I have never really heard many coaxes so wanted some opinions compared to comparible comps.

I don't want to bust the windows out of the car, just be able to give it a little volume, fill up the cabin with decent - good sounding music. Would favor using the stock HU is possible, subs and amp that are small and light. This is just a cimmuter car that I bought for reliability and mpg. Budget shouldn't be a problem for this project, nice equipment but nothing exotic is needed.

Can anyone suggest some equipment that would be a good compromise for this situation?

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[r.meeker 10+ year member]

I have some Alpine 6.5 type R coaxials that sound nice in my truck.

I've never had any problems with them. If you're looking for a small amp, I have the new Rockford power T400-2 that I'm selling. It's compact and very efficient. Pm me if interested.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

amping them helps the most

 

[Bobby12many 10+ year member]

WHy not go with a "convertable" component like the CDTs, where the tweeter mount is simply in place of the phase plug of the midbass? Youd still have a crossover to hide somewhere, but there would be no tweeter mounting issues or anything suggesting aftermarket equipment to theives?

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5835

 

[NE14MX 10+ year member]

That's a good idea and I have thought about that. I still would rather not deal with x-overs but also, the speaker locations are way down at your foot and kinda pointing away from you so I'm not sure it would be worth it to do so. Both a coax and comp that mounted brax style would have the same tweeter issues so I'm not sure if it would be worth while.

I would like to keep it stock looking if possible so that's a good suggestion.

WHy not go with a "convertable" component like the CDTs, where the tweeter mount is simply in place of the phase plug of the midbass? Youd still have a crossover to hide somewhere, but there would be no tweeter mounting issues or anything suggesting aftermarket equipment to theives?
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=5835

 

[Bobby12many 10+ year member]

CDT coax all around and a small ported 8" setup (Dayton Reference? DD 8"?) on ~300watts would be a nice clean setup, and pretty unobtrusive.

Just use a line level convertor off the rear speakers to gain RCA inputs for the sub, that way you can leave your dashboard in tact and only worry about running an ~8gauge power wire and installing the speakers.

 

[Bobby12many 10+ year member]

That's a good idea and I have thought about that. I still would rather not deal with x-overs but also, the speaker locations are way down at your foot and kinda pointing away from you so I'm not sure it would be worth it to do so. Both a coax and comp that mounted brax style would have the same tweeter issues so I'm not sure if it would be worth while.
I would like to keep it stock looking if possible so that's a good suggestion.

Most of those 'brax' style comp systems have a fair amount of adjustability with the tweeter aiming and attenuation, so you may actually get a bit better imaging than you expect.

 

[Etac 10+ year member]

coax's can sound very good, infact they would probaly be easier for the average person to get to "sound good", alot of people with their comps and their tweeter positions have no idea waht "good" sounds like

coaxs the sound will appear as tho its coming from a single source, at the same time, and blend perfectly with the mid

memphis and boston have convertable ones

 

[Racerx250 10+ year member]

Got a set of boston pro 60's but you'd have to buy the tweeter mounting hardware for them. 170 shipped

 

[NE14MX 10+ year member]

Good suggestions. I was thinking about using a 4 ch amp, using 2 ch's to power a sub and the other to power the front 2 speakers. Just do away with the rear 2. I would like to keep the stock HU and keep it stock looking as long as it doesn't hurt SQ too bad. Sound ok?

tell me what you'd do with this

 

[Bobby12many 10+ year member]

Good suggestions. I was thinking about using a 4 ch amp, using 2 ch's to power a sub and the other to power the front 2 speakers. Just do away with the rear 2. I would like to keep the stock HU and keep it stock looking as long as it doesn't hurt SQ too bad. Sound ok?
tell me what you'd do with this

That sounds like a good plan to me.

Plenty of people use 4ch amps in the manner you are referring to, including myself.

Using a line level convertor will allow you to expand your system as much as you could most likely desire.

One option to help with this processor would be to pick up a JL Audio Clean Sweep unit. They are basically a line level adaptor with built in DSP capabilities, and allow a serious amount of flexibility using OEM source units.

You can learn more about this unit here;

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

If I were in your position, I would explore the CleanSweep option and pair it up with a nice dual band Active EQ for your front stage, then use an 8 to 10" driver that will fit your power/size requirments.

With appropriate planning and some choosy shopping, you could have a wonderfully balanced system that is simply heard, not seen.

I hope I have helped get your brain storming at least!

 

[NE14MX 10+ year member]

Thanks for the suggestions. It would help if I could hear some of the things I am considering but seems to be impossible. It's weird that I had less trouble choosing equipment for a high end system for my others cars than I've had choosing a simpler system with this one.

That sounds like a good plan to me.
Plenty of people use 4ch amps in the manner you are referring to, including myself.

Using a line level convertor will allow you to expand your system as much as you could most likely desire.

One option to help with this processor would be to pick up a JL Audio Clean Sweep unit. They are basically a line level adaptor with built in DSP capabilities, and allow a serious amount of flexibility using OEM source units.

You can learn more about this unit here;

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_cleansweep_pages.php?page_id=94

If I were in your position, I would explore the CleanSweep option and pair it up with a nice dual band Active EQ for your front stage, then use an 8 to 10" driver that will fit your power/size requirments.

With appropriate planning and some choosy shopping, you could have a wonderfully balanced system that is simply heard, not seen.

I hope I have helped get your brain storming at least!

 

[netzero 10+ year member]

I have RE coax in my escape and with some deadening and expanding foam, they sound 100x better then stock, but like some above said, the best thing is to amp them with 50+ watts.

 

[I Like Waffle]

Alpine and infinity coaxs sound really clean IMO. Ofcourse with any coax the highs arent gonna be as bright as they would be with a component set, but they still sound pretty good. Just try to stay away from the lower end 3 4 5 etc way speakers with plastic tweeters. a decent set of 2 way coaxs will do you fine

 

[undeadxsunshine 10+ year member]

I went with all coaxials for the same reason you want to. I was new to this and didn't want the trouble of worrying about mounting tweeters and crossovers. Just look in my sig to see what I'm running. I'm very impressed with how it turned out. It gets really loud too with no distortion. The only thing is the bass cant get as loud on it without the drivers bottoming out. This wont be a problem for me as soon as I get a sub. You will definitely be happy with some high quality coaxials. I don't even have any deadening done in my car.