can i get clipping from a jl 1000 1 with a 12 w7

Did you follw the gain setting instruction? thats kind of important so you dont smoke that high dollar sub
That sub is so going to get smoked haha, I bet the coils are fried a little already. OP you need to understand that when you get a high enough output amplifier it's no longer just a matter of size of wire. Now you're into a whole nother ballgame I recommend at the very least getting a high quality battery and doing the big 3 upgrade. You probally do need a HO alternator to get the most clean power you can out of that amp. That amp uses a lot of power and if not steadily supplied that much power, the amp will compensate (or you will try to compensate with settings on the hu like subwoofer +db and loudness.) Both things that will add distortion to your subwoofer signal. This distortion will eventually overtime or maybe even right away blow your woofer by taking it past it's thermal limits. That subwoofer can probally handle all the clean power that amp can throw at it, but no subwoofer will stand up to dirty power or power with a lot of distortion.

Now if you do not have the proper electrical setup to handle that amp I highly recommend keeping the gain down low. Even with a stock power supply you can probally safely turn gain to around 20% or so. You need a DMM or a sound ear to properly set the gain for the amp.

 
also how do i kno if my alternator can push this amp?? im going tomorow to get 0 gauge to a back battery i got but how do i kno if my alternator is good enough there gonna tune the amp tomorow too how do i kno i have ofc wire??

 
i dont know what people are talking about. jl amps dont clip. im telling you if you want full 1000 watt power, you gotta turn that gain all the way up. right now your getting about 750. the gain knob is volume after all.

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well what most of us do is figure out how many watts we're using rms. With all our speakers and subwoofer(s). take for instance my system is 1800watts RMS. 1800/14volts=129 so I need a solit 129 amps to run my system properly. It is generally known that a car's normal operating takes up about 60amps so that will mean I should have an alternator capable of producing 189amps for optimum efficiency. I'll let you in on a little secret. I am still using my stock alternator 105amps rated. (you can usually google your vehicle and find out the stock alternator rating) How I am compensating for this lack of power is with large gel batteries, but even then it isn't optimal yet. So I keep my sub gain down below 40% most of the time, also your system isn't constantly draining that much power only on the notes where the subs have to hit hard. I think standard music it's something like once every 3 seconds. Anyway we all do what we can even if you don't have optimum electrical yet doesn't mean you can't jam, but it does mean you need to be careful with your gains.

 
if you can afford it yes, if not just get 1 or 2 big batteries like an Optima Yellowtop, XS, Deka, Batcap, Kinetic, or Odyssey. They all make good batteries for Car Audio. The bigger you can fit/afford the better stick one of those in back near the amps and leave the stock one upfront or upgrade that too and run them both in parallel. Anything helps, the better your electrical system the cleaner your amp will run and cooler, which will in turn keep your subwoofer/speakers safer from blowing (or being pushed past their thermal limits). Also it can be harder on stock alternators to supply ample power for your system, so they tend to die quicker.

Keep in mind your electrical is your foundation, the better it is the better your system will sound and the louder it will get cleanly. If you upgrade it a bunch then you can feel comfortable down the road doing some upgrades maybe getting different subs/amps that handle more power.

Most people with money in mind will upgrade things one at a time and see how their system performs. I recommend for you to upgrade your wiring to 1/0 and to do the Big3 upgrade with it.

Next if you want to get a nice battery for the back

Next if you want to either get another battery up front or shoot for a High Output Alternator.

It all depends on how your system performs.

 
I meant an actual picture of your amp, so we can see where the settings are. Bass boost should be at 0. Gain shouldn't be that high. keep it no higher than 50% at the absolute most, until you get a DMM and set your gains properly.

BIG 3 upgrade consists of adding 1/0 to your stock electrical system under the hood. Specifically:

Bat - to chassis

Bat + to alt

Engine block to chassis

 
That amp will "mute" itself if if its not getting enough power to provide its power. Not saying this is the problem but a 70 amp alt is NOT enough to supply its power. Even if you add a rear batt thats just another load. You need to go the radio shack and get a $20 DMM and set the gain. Then see how it is. If its still not loud then your electrical needs big time work. Those HO boxes are not that great but as somebody said before, it the back of a hatch it should be loud enough for now

 
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