Calling Circle Saw Users.. straight cuts...

If you don't want to clamp a straight edge, draw a straight pencil line using a straight edge, and the secret to cutting straight is cutting 1/2 of the prncil line out usint the outside of the blade, if you have the skill to keep the outsice of the kerf in the middle of the pencil line it will all fall into place. Being smooth is huge.

 
i keep pieces like this lying around...all the way up to 97" long. I actually bought a sheet of MDF and cut it up just for this purpose

DSC02613.jpg


 
I just look along the inside of the blade where the line I've drawn is, and it has less sawdust covering my view than looking at the outside of the blade. Use a decent to new sawblade and just keep your arms very steady. Has worked really well for me the last two boxes I made.

 
I normally use a 6 foot aluminum L shaped thing I found at my Dad's shop, that + reference line + clamps + steady hand = straight lines.

Cutting wood straight isn't my problem. It's glueing it on straight. To this day I need to use screws.

I always see people just glueing it straight

But I **** at it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
I normally use a 6 foot aluminum L shaped thing I found at my Dad's shop, that + reference line + clamps + steady hand = straight lines.

Cutting wood straight isn't my problem. It's glueing it on straight. To this day I need to use screws.

I always see people just glueing it straight

But I **** at it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
What you do is get some 45 degree corner braces, they hold 2 peices of mdf and they keep them squared up. Then you get some clamps and put alot of pressure where the glue is, and you can move the boards flush if you have to, and they'll stay. Pressure is the key... if you take two scrap peices of mdf and glue them, stick them together and press them as hard as you can, and they'll be stuck pretty d@mn good.

 
ive started using my circular saw more than my table saw. do to my back and not wanting to man handle half or full sheets through the table saw.

i use a a straight edge i made out of a piece of 1/4 thick 3 inch wide piece of aluminum 49" long for crosscuts

and a 97" for rips.

works really well and i welded some aluminum c clamps to each end to make it quick

here is where i got the aluminum http://www.discountsteel.com/index.cfm/go/main.itemDisplay/itemID/52.htm

 
if you dont want to add the extra inch to every cut just put a 1/2" piece of wood on top of a real thin piece of wood(make sure that piece is wider than the 1/2"). glue them together. place the skill saw against the 1/2" and cut the thinner piece. now you have an exact guide for that saw. the metal guard will rest against the 1/2" and the thin piece shows where your blade cuts. after that you dont have to do any adding or anything. just make a mark on each side of the MDF, line up your board, clamp and cut.

 
ok i know this thread is old but....

is there any kind of guide you can buy for a circle saw instead of clamping down a piece of wood?? something that clamps down so I don't have to put a pensil mark on both ends of the board, leaving SOME room for error... know what I mean... sometimes the pencil mark is thicker than the other side, then you ask yourself (do I cut on the inside of the mark, or the outside? or right in the middle)

 
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