Calling all Yukon and escalade owners

kscowboy
10+ year member

Junior Member
I am getting ready to pull the trigger on upradding the system in my 2012 Yukon Denali and wanted to know what have all the other Yukon or escalade owners done for upgrades. I'm not looking to make it a competition ride but looking more toward getting great quality sound and more bass. Some ppl say the factory mids and tweets are good enough and you don't need to change them out. Others say that upgrading the door speakers with something like focals are the way to go. Also thinking about 2-10's for subs. Any input about all things to make my system better are welcomed. Thanks Ks

 
yes to the components and sub(s) not sure what you are really trying to ask here?

if you want to go straight sound quality i would suggest looking into 2 decent sq 12s sealed, an audison bit 1 proccessor, fully active front stage ran off of a nice sq 4 ch

 
a lot harder to hide batteries my friend.It is uch easier to do 4 15s than 4 18s in a tahoe.But yes it is possible for 4 18s as some guys on the west coast already have done 4 18s.Anything is possible tho.

 
only TWO tens what the fuck is this africa bitch you better get 10 18's in that shit with 50 batteries and 8 alternators and a prefab bestbuy box!

fuck it while we're at it just sell the truck and get an astro van and cement the box in there aight?

 
Basically, how great the sound-quality of the system is, depends on how in-depth you want to go in the build, and how much money you have to spend.

A minimal SQ system in a truck that big would consist of something like 2 sealed 12's on ~6-800, a decent quality processor, 6.5" Component speakers in the front door with properly imaged tweeters, some sort of rear fill, and your 4 channel would only need to be around 50-70x4.

To get louder, or sound better, or both, more money will need to be spent, or more will need to be put into the install.

And if the factory front stage is good enough for you, no need to change it.

 
only TWO tens what the fuck is this africa bitch you better get 10 18's in that shit with 50 batteries and 8 alternators and a prefab bestbuy box!
fuck it while we're at it just sell the truck and get an astro van and cement the box in there aight?
Good advice here OP

 
Basically, how great the sound-quality of the system is, depends on how in-depth you want to go in the build, and how much money you have to spend.
A minimal SQ system in a truck that big would consist of something like 2 sealed 12's on ~6-800, a decent quality processor, 6.5" Component speakers in the front door with properly imaged tweeters, some sort of rear fill, and your 4 channel would only need to be around 50-70x4.

To get louder, or sound better, or both, more money will need to be spent, or more will need to be put into the install.

And if the factory front stage is good enough for you, no need to change it.
Why do most people incorporate sq with sealed enclosures? Either A. you don't know how to design a ported enclosure or B. You've never heard of a passive radiator. Both when built correctly will retain the same sound quality enabled by your equipment as a sealed enclosure but will be more efficient.....

 
Why do most people incorporate sq with sealed enclosures? Either A. you don't know how to design a ported enclosure or B. You've never heard of a passive radiator. Both when built correctly will retain the same sound quality enabled by your equipment as a sealed enclosure but will be more efficient.....
2 reasons for me, many times sound quality systems mean that they are trying to save space, and since ported boxes are bigger, sealed works better. Sealed also provides a generally flatter response with a less complex build, which is why I recommend it to amateurs (or people who may appear to be at least) looking for sound quality.

I have used a passive radiator in the past, and they do work wonderfully, but they are very cost prohibitive compared to other box designs, which is why I don't personally recommend them.

 
2 reasons for me, many times sound quality systems mean that they are trying to save space, and since ported boxes are bigger, sealed works better. Sealed also provides a generally flatter response with a less complex build, which is why I recommend it to amateurs (or people who may appear to be at least) looking for sound quality.
I have used a passive radiator in the past, and they do work wonderfully, but they are very cost prohibitive compared to other box designs, which is why I don't personally recommend them.
I see where your coming from but saying that just keeps that misconception alive. Ported boxes are larger.. but if size is an issue that's where passive radiators come in to play. And if you know where to look they aren't all that expensive compared to what most sq oriented equipment cost. Now you have to consider that your getting more output out of a sealed size enclosure making that nice expensive equipment even that such more efficient/lower/louder .That and you can tune low without having a terribly long port. Passive radiators eliminate port resonance, compression, and noise.

Do you think most amateurs know how to calculate the qtc of their sealed enclosures or even what qtc to look for to get the flattest response?

 
2 reasons for me, many times sound quality systems mean that they are trying to save space, and since ported boxes are bigger, sealed works better. Sealed also provides a generally flatter response with a less complex build, which is why I recommend it to amateurs (or people who may appear to be at least) looking for sound quality.
I have used a passive radiator in the past, and they do work wonderfully, but they are very cost prohibitive compared to other box designs, which is why I don't personally recommend them.
You could fit 2 properly ported 10's in a 2012 denali and STILL have hella room left over. That is if you dont go all out with amp racks and batteries but just basic **** for sq oriented

 
I see where your coming from but saying that just keeps that misconception alive. Ported boxes are larger.. but if size is an issue that's where passive radiators come in to play. And if you know where to look they aren't all that expensive compared to what most sq oriented equipment cost. Now you have to consider that your getting more output out of a sealed size enclosure making that nice expensive equipment even that such more efficient/lower/louder .That and you can tune low without having a terribly long port. Passive radiators eliminate port resonance, compression, and noise.Do you think most amateurs know how to calculate the qtc of their sealed enclosures or even what qtc to look for to get the flattest response?
Good point, they probably couldn't, I haven't done sealed since I first started, so I don't even know what to look for in a sealed sub. Sound quality oriented equipment is indeed very expensive, but most people just getting into audio will be amazed by the sound quality of lower end lines like the Focal Polyglass and HAT Imagines, which are pretty cheap compared to the higher end lines.

 
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kscowboy

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