snoopdan
5,000+ posts
Banned
Well the 15 challenge said Obsidan sucks. That's the benchmark of the entire universe YO.
snoopdan
- Thread Starter
- #17
AND a High output alternator slacker -_-
disturbed471985
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Hmm got a link to said challenge heard bout it but never saw the results..
disturbed471985
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
I run close to 3k with no HO alt "full tilt never drops below 13.4v".... Is it worth getting one yes but is it mandatory well no... Loan me 1k and I will get one. $600 for alt "plus install" my car has to be on lift to remove alt so yea cant change in ur friends driveway.
CAT MAN
5,000+ posts
Banned
best one to use still isnt 100%
Well, reading this very last sentence says its simple physics and it works. I'm gonna plug in my few systems in A little bit and see how well it works. If any body else would care to do the same, I think it would be quite amusing.
How do I get my system louder?
One of the greatest tools in the audiophile toolbox is math. What? Math ***** you say. Well I say get your calculators out and start working your brain. This will be fun, honest.
In retail, chat forums and lunch rooms across the country the single most common questions are “how do I get my system louder” or “how loud will these subs be”. I can personally guarantee you that you ask ten people this question, including the guys at the stereo shop, you will get 13 different answers and none of them will be basing their answers on facts. They simply do not know how it works. There are some basic physics at work here.
Volume, which is measured in decibels (expressed by dB), is a function of power, cone area, enclosure design, and transfer function. Oh, you knew that already? Ok, sure that last statement might seem a little obvious, but undestanding how they interact togethr is critical to calculating volume. That’s right, you can calculate exactly how loud you system will be. Enough BS, here is the worksheet. You won’t find this anywhere else, send your friends.
This formula requires a few specs. First, you need the sensitivity of the sub(s). This listed on the woofer spec sheet in dB. It is sometimes notated as the SPL of the sub. Next, you need to know how much power your amp puts out. An amp birth-sheet (usually included in the box) will have the actual power the amp displayed when it was tested at the factory. Not all amps come with these. If you do not have such a sheet, you can use the power ratings, or even better, you can test it yourself (that is whole other enchilada and we will get into that another time). Other specs you need are more simple- what type of car do you have- truck, hatchback, or sedan; and what kind of box is it installed in. The enclosure will make a big difference, if it is a crappy home-built box with lots of leaks, held together with carpet and liquid nails, it probably won’t function as well as a professionally-built enclosure (like the Q-Logic pre-fab enclosures- shameless plug) and how many woofers you have. Have fun.
Sensitivity =
Every time the cone area doubles, the output of the system increases by 3 dB, which is relative to a doubling of volume. If you have 4 subs, you would add 9 dB to the sensitivity rating of the subwoofers.
add 3 dB per doubling of cone area
i.e. 2 subs, 3 dB, 4 subs, 6 dB
Let’s consider sub sensitivity, with 3 dB per sub added and calculate the SPL. Each time the output power (wattage) of the amplifier doubles, the SPL increases by 3 dB. To figure this, use the following figures.
This represent 3 dB added per doubling of power starting at 1 watt/meter SPL.
1=0
2=3
4=6
8=9
16=12
32=15
64=18
128=21
256=24
512=27
1024=30
2048=33
4096=36
8192=39
Next we add in Transfer Function
add 12 dB for a standard car/truck
add 16 dB for a hatchback car
Now we figure in box type
For a sealed box, 0 dB, sealed offers no dB gain.
For a ported box, 3-9 dB depending on tuning frequency and air ripple. The higher the ripple, the more gain but at a cost of sound quality.
For a bandpass box, 6-12 dB again depending on the tune freq. and ripple.
Well, reading this very last sentence says its simple physics and it works. I'm gonna plug in my few systems in A little bit and see how well it works. If any body else would care to do the same, I think it would be quite amusing.
How do I get my system louder?
One of the greatest tools in the audiophile toolbox is math. What? Math ***** you say. Well I say get your calculators out and start working your brain. This will be fun, honest.
In retail, chat forums and lunch rooms across the country the single most common questions are “how do I get my system louder” or “how loud will these subs be”. I can personally guarantee you that you ask ten people this question, including the guys at the stereo shop, you will get 13 different answers and none of them will be basing their answers on facts. They simply do not know how it works. There are some basic physics at work here.
Volume, which is measured in decibels (expressed by dB), is a function of power, cone area, enclosure design, and transfer function. Oh, you knew that already? Ok, sure that last statement might seem a little obvious, but undestanding how they interact togethr is critical to calculating volume. That’s right, you can calculate exactly how loud you system will be. Enough BS, here is the worksheet. You won’t find this anywhere else, send your friends.
This formula requires a few specs. First, you need the sensitivity of the sub(s). This listed on the woofer spec sheet in dB. It is sometimes notated as the SPL of the sub. Next, you need to know how much power your amp puts out. An amp birth-sheet (usually included in the box) will have the actual power the amp displayed when it was tested at the factory. Not all amps come with these. If you do not have such a sheet, you can use the power ratings, or even better, you can test it yourself (that is whole other enchilada and we will get into that another time). Other specs you need are more simple- what type of car do you have- truck, hatchback, or sedan; and what kind of box is it installed in. The enclosure will make a big difference, if it is a crappy home-built box with lots of leaks, held together with carpet and liquid nails, it probably won’t function as well as a professionally-built enclosure (like the Q-Logic pre-fab enclosures- shameless plug) and how many woofers you have. Have fun.
Sensitivity =
Every time the cone area doubles, the output of the system increases by 3 dB, which is relative to a doubling of volume. If you have 4 subs, you would add 9 dB to the sensitivity rating of the subwoofers.
add 3 dB per doubling of cone area
i.e. 2 subs, 3 dB, 4 subs, 6 dB
Let’s consider sub sensitivity, with 3 dB per sub added and calculate the SPL. Each time the output power (wattage) of the amplifier doubles, the SPL increases by 3 dB. To figure this, use the following figures.
This represent 3 dB added per doubling of power starting at 1 watt/meter SPL.
1=0
2=3
4=6
8=9
16=12
32=15
64=18
128=21
256=24
512=27
1024=30
2048=33
4096=36
8192=39
Next we add in Transfer Function
add 12 dB for a standard car/truck
add 16 dB for a hatchback car
Now we figure in box type
For a sealed box, 0 dB, sealed offers no dB gain.
For a ported box, 3-9 dB depending on tuning frequency and air ripple. The higher the ripple, the more gain but at a cost of sound quality.
For a bandpass box, 6-12 dB again depending on the tune freq. and ripple.
CAT MAN
5,000+ posts
Banned
everyone says alts this alts that but when it comes down to it a battery is needed no matter what. an alt cannot run an entire system.
Mr.meyhem
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
yeah, i wish i had the cash for it... dad is stupid and doesn't want me putting another dime into my system so i have to do everything without him knowing which means slowly taking a little bit of money out of each one of my checks.. and then installing everything over at a friends house lol
disturbed471985
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Grow some balls my friend.... Ur money use as u plz... If he does to agree with that then time to become a man and get out in the world and make a life for urself..
FlexnInLa
10+ year member
Huggin Them Nuts!
The 15" challenge did not say Obsidian ******, it simply didn't get as loud as more SPL oriented subs did. Down low it gets louder than any of them on less power I'm willing to bet. It did do over a 150 and it is NOT an SPL sub by any means.
OP just a wild guess, if you throw 1k plus at it, depending on the box and vehicle of course, I'm going to say you'll be withing a db of 140.
OP just a wild guess, if you throw 1k plus at it, depending on the box and vehicle of course, I'm going to say you'll be withing a db of 140.
CAT MAN
5,000+ posts
Banned
alright from one "kid" to another. you make your money. he doesnt. Pay your bills and use whats left over for what you want. I layed it down to my dad when he started that crap. They will learn.
Mr.meyhem
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
im not gunna screw myself like that lol. he owns the car and is paying for half of my college... so id end up losing in the end...
imma tell him that i need a new bat for sure cuz the dude at auto zone said mine wasn't doing the best lol. how long do stock batts normally last?
CAT MAN
5,000+ posts
Banned
maybe thats the benifit of me paying for everything but college lol...
Mr.meyhem
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
i hate it that he can hold all this **** over my head, but i gotta admit i got it pretty good.
Mr.meyhem
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
HELL i drive an 09 civic and I'm 17. thats not bad.
If its the one Skip01 posted...the OA was a tenth louder than the SA on about the same power. Also just a tenth behind an HDC on about 1200 less watts. I dont see how that says it "sucks". //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
About this thread
- Start date
- Participants
- Who Replied
- Replies
- 63
- Views
- 3,300
- Last reply date
- Last reply from
- 05trailblazer
