Bottomed out my ID10 D2V3 :(

Sovelin
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After about 20 hours of usage, I had noticed a popping noise in my subwoofer. After taking it to Best Buy Geek Squad services, they told me my sub is on its way out, most likely due to the gain being set way too high (my amp is the P1000.1). He stated my Sub is rated at 250w RMS, so my gain should have been set at max to 50% (it was much higher). So now I have two options.

I'm thinking of getting another ID10 D2V3 and keeping the gain at 50%, or possibly getting the IDMAX10 D2V3. It handles at 1000RMS (Peak at 1800). My question is, can my amp properly power this sub (It dishes out 1000w at 1ohm and is stable), or should I stick with the ID10? Also, if I do go for the IDMAX10, should I keep the gain at 50% or can I go up without causing long term damage to the sub?

I have a knob under my dash that lets me control my bass remotely (connects via telephone wire to a port on the amp labeled "remote level control"). I believe this is similar to an LC1 (I have a stock head unit, if that makes a difference).

BTW, my enclosure is 1.3 cubes net at 32hz

 
I'd say meet in the middle and go with an IDQ. You've got other factors fighting you in that enclosure (i.e. box rise and efficiency loss), so whatever you get wouldn't be seeing the full 1K. ID subs really don't like taking more than their rating for too long. I have the ID in a D4 right now and I've got it about 325W by DMM to make up for some of the system losses.

 
I guess it would be best to let the people at BestBuy to set it properly. Will the P1000.1 be adequate for the IDMAX?

@neo_styles how does the IDQ compare to the ID10? If my current box isn't ideal for the max, I'd rather avoid it and pick something else. Probably between the ID and the IDQ

 
I guess it would be best to let the people at BestBuy to set it properly. Will the P1000.1 be adequate for the IDMAX?
See my above post. Short answer is yes, technically, but the sub will be underutilized. Go with IDQ and get the full potential out of her from that amp.

Also, don't bother letting Worst Buy touch it. I've seen some terrible stuff come out of their shops, though I have had them fix a couple of my friends' hack jobs when I was out of town and they did somewhat decent. Too much of a gamble IMO. Just get yourself a cheap DMM from RadioShack or Amazon, spend ten minutes learning how to do it in the Help 101 section, and be good. BB will charge you more than the DMM costs and it'll be a one-time thing. Not worth it.

 
See my above post. Short answer is yes, technically, but the sub will be underutilized. Go with IDQ and get the full potential out of her from that amp.
Also, don't bother letting Worst Buy touch it. I've seen some terrible stuff come out of their shops, though I have had them fix a couple of my friends' hack jobs when I was out of town and they did somewhat decent. Too much of a gamble IMO. Just get yourself a cheap DMM from RadioShack or Amazon, spend ten minutes learning how to do it in the Help 101 section, and be good. BB will charge you more than the DMM costs and it'll be a one-time thing. Not worth it.
That's probably what I'll do. At this point the job doesn't look too difficult (swap out old sub, pop in new one, set gain). I'll go with the IDQ10.

Will using my current sub until the new one comes in be okay, or can that cause damage to any of my components?

 
That's probably what I'll do. At this point the job doesn't look too difficult (swap out old sub, pop in new one, set gain). I'll go with the IDQ10.Will using my current sub until the new one comes in be okay, or can that cause damage to any of my components?
Most likely, no, but it's never a good idea running known bad equipment. If you must, just do so with the gains much lower. If I were you, I'd just pull it out. No sense in risking damage to your amp as well.

 
Most likely, no, but it's never a good idea running known bad equipment. If you must, just do so with the gains much lower. If I were you, I'd just pull it out. No sense in risking damage to your amp as well.
You are absolutely right. I've caused enough damage. Should I still wire it to be @1 ohm?

 
You are the one who recommended it to me a few months back //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I remember //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif Glad you've enjoyed it so far.

 
After about 20 hours of usage, I had noticed a popping noise in my subwoofer. After taking it to Best Buy Geek Squad services, they told me my sub is on its way out, most likely due to the gain being set way too high (my amp is the P1000.1). He stated my Sub is rated at 250w RMS, so my gain should have been set at max to 50% (it was much higher). So now I have two options.
There is absolutely no basis to assume that setting gain position at 50% will not blow your subwoofers. The gain position alone does not determine the RMS watts possibly being sent to subwoofer. The only way to be sure is to set gain with a DMM.

I'm thinking of getting another ID10 D2V3 and keeping the gain at 50%, or possibly getting the IDMAX10 D2V3. It handles at 1000RMS (Peak at 1800). My question is, can my amp properly power this sub (It dishes out 1000w at 1ohm and is stable), or should I stick with the ID10? Also, if I do go for the IDMAX10, should I keep the gain at 50% or can I go up without causing long term damage to the sub?
The P1000.1 should do 1000watts RMS at 2ohm. According to a former PPI employee they did not rate it correctly but the literature was already printed. This is the same amp as Soundstream TN1.1200D (you can check its power rating, which I assume is correct). Personally, I'd just run it at 2ohm. This should be better for amplifier efficiency. The 1200watts it can do at 1ohm probably won't make a difference. IDMAX is supposed to be a good subwoofer and there are many used examples available for a good price. IDQv3 could also work well if you don't over drive it. Supposedly IDQ and IDMAX sound the same up to 500watt output, then IDQ runs out of steam.

The optimal enclosure for IDMAX12 is 1.5cu ft or 1cu ft for IDQ12v3. 1.3 could be a bit small, but perhaps you could stuff it with an appropriate quantity of polyfill to make up for that. It might be just right for an IDMAX10.

 
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