Bottomed out my ID10 D2V3 :(

[Sovelin 10+ year member]

I think I will stick with the IDQ, simply because I would like a properly powered sub rather then risk having an underpowered sub. But is that true about the p1000.1? Are there any references I can check to confirm this?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If best buy is telling you the gain should of been 50% never go back there. 50% could be a clipped to hell 1000 watts. 50% power, ok but that has to be measured not just set 50% gain.

 

[RicksI30 10+ year member]

I think I will stick with the IDQ, simply because I would like a properly powered sub rather then risk having an underpowered sub. But is that true about the p1000.1? Are there any references I can check to confirm this?

First of all how do you know that your sub is on the way out? Because best buy told you? The same people at best buy that told you if you just set your gain at 50% you'll be fine? Clearly whoever you were speaking to was a typical best buy employee who doesn't know that much about car audio. If I were you I would pull the sub and inspect it for damage, and then measure the coils with a DMM. If everything checks out wire it to 4 ohms, put it back in, set the gain properly, and bump on.

Second of all you cannot EVER damage a sub from too little power, period. The reason that this "myth" caught on is because people that don't know what they are doing crank the gain on their amp causing it to clip and produce more power than it is rated at. Just because the amp is rated for less than the sub can take people started with the under powering BS.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

If Best Buy is telling you your gain is to high and that it is a volume control I wouldnt let them touch my install again. They are wrong and dumb.

Gain is to match output voltage from your HU to your amp.

If those subs are in a correct enclosure and the amp is tuned correctly they will be fine on that amp at 2 ohms. I ran my pair of ID8's on 750 wrms in a ported enclosure and never had a single issue.