Big 3 question... chassis to engine block ground

[RedlineAccord 10+ year member]

I'm doing the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring right now... First off, this is my first time working with 0 gauge, and holy CRAP you can probably kill someone with one swing with this shit. lol But anyways, on to my question...

I'm looking for a chassis to engine block ground right now. Would it be safe to use one of the header bolts on the end? (so the wire wouldnt be going across all the extremely hot metal) Or would it be too hot to have the wires anywhere near that bolt?

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[geowick07 10+ year member]

See if you can find the factory ground and use that. just make sure that it is rust- and paint-free. bare metal. i dont know for sure, but i dont think using the header bolt would be a good idea. might melt the insulation on the wire and cause it to short out.

 

[nVRuckus 5,000+ posts]

I'm doing the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge wiring right now... First off, this is my first time working with 0 gauge, and holy CRAP you can probably kill someone with one swing with this shit. lol But anyways, on to my question...
I'm looking for a chassis to engine block ground right now. Would it be safe to use one of the header bolts on the end? (so the wire wouldnt be going across all the extremely hot metal) Or would it be too hot to have the wires anywhere near that bolt?

I would run directly to the frame if heat is a concern for you running it to the existing spot.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

You don't really have to worry about the ground shorting out...but yeah the header bolt would get pretty hot....in fact besides probally melting the insulation...it won't give you a good ground....when the connector is heated to that extreme it will cause extreme resistance in the metals creating a weak ground...use a DMM and measure out various points where bolts on the motor are and gett your lowest resistance reading to determine the best place for your grounds...

 

[RedlineAccord 10+ year member]

Hmmm ok, I thought it might be a problem. So far nothing has melted and the car has been running with it grounded there. The big 3 + the new Kinetik 1400 I got is friggin awesome! My voltage used to drop pretty low, now it is at 15.5 with the car running and drops no lower than about 14.7 or so. I'll see where on the engine block i can find a bolt to use, seems like most of them are on there pretty **** good.

 

[nVRuckus 5,000+ posts]

15.5 really? you got a ho alt? mine runs 14.5 and drops to about 13-12.5v on burps.

 

[05AztecRed 10+ year member]

You can use an alternator mounting bolt as a point of connection...

 

[nVRuckus 5,000+ posts]

....

You can use an alternator mounting bolt as a point of connection...

use a DMM and measure out various points where bolts are and gett your lowest resistance reading to determine the best place for your grounds...

 

[RedlineAccord 10+ year member]

15.5 really? you got a ho alt? mine runs 14.5 and drops to about 13-12.5v on burps.

Thats what the voltmeter on my capacitor is showering. The small digital voltmeter on my battery terminal is showing just a little bit lower than that. I just have a stock alternator. Are the voltmeters just inaccurate?

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

You don't really have to worry about the ground shorting out...but yeah the header bolt would get pretty hot....in fact besides probally melting the insulation...it won't give you a good ground....when the connector is heated to that extreme it will cause extreme resistance in the metals creating a weak ground...use a DMM and measure out various points where bolts on the motor are and gett your lowest resistance reading to determine the best place for your grounds...

Not to mention the insane amount of rust found on headers and their mounting bolts ...

 

[RedlineAccord 10+ year member]

Hmm, on the bolt maybe... but they are stainless steel headers. If they rust, me and Megan Racing are gonna have a REAAALLLLY big problem. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif The last headers they sent me, the welds holding the pipes onto the flange (which was bolts into the engine block) just popped clean off. Friggin rediculous.