not mine....
My example is from my NBS truck, but this will work for any vehicle. You just have to carefully measure the wire lengths, and figure out how to route the wires.
The purpose of the BIG 3 upgrade is to improve current flow, thus diminishing voltage sag. This is an upgrade/addition to the factory wiring, and not a replacement of the factory wiring. This is not a cure all for dimming headlights, but it's a start. Other recommended upgrades to be used in conjunction with the BIG 3 upgrade are deep cycle batteries (Optima Yellow Top) and high output alternators.
I ended up using some extra 0 gauge wire that I had laying around from previous installs, but 4 gauge will do. For my system, I used Audiopipe battery terminals, Stinger HPM Series 0 gauge (red and silver), and Stinger Expert Series 0 gauge ring terminals.
List of supplies:
1) battery positive to alternator (approx. 4’),
2) battery negative to chassis (approx. 4’),
3) engine block to chassis (approx. 5’),
4) 4 ring terminals,
5) heatshrink (to cover ring terminals),
6) flex loom (I didn’t use any because the Stinger wire was so pretty).
I would estimate the total cost of supplies to be $50-100, depending on the wire size/color and connector type. If you don’t care about how the wire looks, look into using welding wire:
PICS:
The red (+) goes to the alternator +. The silver (-) goes to a chassis bolt under the truck:
The red (+) comes from the battery. The silver (-) is connected to the engine block just above the PS fluid reservoir and goes to a factory ground location on the fire wall:
4/0 welding wire (courtesy of Rick/idbl_Fanatic):