Big 3 on a Chrysler 300M

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Ok, so today was a beautiful one in Chicago. Sox kicked some *** ......AGAIN, wasn't too hot, and I didn't have a lot to do. I got all my materials and got to it.

To me, it was kinda tricky because the battery is under the air filter. I ran all brown kicker 0 gauge hyperflex wire. I also scrapped my old battery cables and ran hyperflex to the battery posts from the battery.

If anyone familiar with these vehicles see anything I may have done wrong, let me know.

My red top with the Advance auto parts terminals. We'll see how they hold up.

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[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Bump for an opinion. has anyone ever done this on an intrepid/concorde/LHS around this same year? Mine is a 99

 

[jbizzle 5,000+ posts]

Looks alright, but on your battery - to ground, clean off all the paint so you get a shiny metal. And for the engine block - to chassis, it just doesn't seem like a good spot to where I would put it somewhere else.

Besides that it looks good

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Looks alright, but on your battery - to ground, clean off all the paint so you get a shiny metal. And for the engine block - to chassis, it just doesn't seem like a good spot to where I would put it somewhere else.
Besides that it looks good

It's like something else grounding there with a screw over it. I couldn't trace it back to anything, So i left it alone.

That engine is hard to work around. I'll look it over again sometime next week. I was going to use one of my strut mounts, but chose the other spot.

 

[jbizzle 5,000+ posts]

Doesn't matter, get some sand paper and clean off all the paint.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

I wouldn't use that spot for the engine ground either. You're grounding through another piece of metal, through a nut, to the engine. Every piece of metal between your wire and the engine block itself can cause resistance. It may be fine, but it may cause issues, too.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Get underneath the car and you'll find several good places for block to chassis.

I would have routed the alt to batt under all the factory wiring and stuff. At least slap some wire ties on it, so it doesn't move around.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the advice guys.

I saw a bolt on my battery tray that would work for block to chassis. I'll tie up the alt to battery + cable too.

Wasn't really as hard as I thought.

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

You should be sitting alot higher than 13.5 idle. I have a 10 year old electrical, stock battery, and only a 60 amp alt and even I'm sitting at 14.1+

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

battery tray is part of the body, not the chassis. Chassis = frame

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

You should be sitting alot higher than 13.5 idle. I have a 10 year old electrical, stock battery, and only a 60 amp alt and even I'm sitting at 14.1+

Just one battery? I took my hc-800 out.

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

Just one battery? I took my hc-800 out.

Yep, just one stock plain old battery. You have a connection dropping voltage or your battery/regulator/alt isn't performing properly. There's no reason you should only sit at 13.5 without at least a few hundred watts rms of sine waves playing

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Yep, just one stock plain old battery. You have a connection dropping voltage or your battery/regulator/alt isn't performing properly. There's no reason you should only sit at 13.5 without at least a few hundred watts rms of sine waves playing

I'll look it over again when I get home. Test was done right after I connected everything back up. Not sure if that has anything to do with it. Luckily I have some more 1/0 I can use in case I need to make a run longer.

 

[Rashaddd 5,000+ posts]

Use a dmm in resistance mode and test the following points (you're looking for there to be the same resistance as when you touch the two probes together):

1. Chassis -> negative battery

2. Chassis -> engine block

3. Engine block where you grounded -> alt ground (unless you grounded the alt casing directly to chassis, in which case skip this step)

4. positive alt -> postive battery

If your dmm is like mine (reads 1 ohm if I touch them together) then all of these should also read 1 ohm.

 

[mendon mafia 10+ year member]

i know this is an old thread but i just wanted to say somthing about your big 3

i have the same car and have done the big 3 as well andi have a 200 amp alt as well.

for the chassis to block it is easiest to just run a wire from the metal mount which the alt is mounted to (theres a nice hole in it which i used bolt the ring terminal to the mount) over to the negative jump terminal.

i believe that the entire casing of the alt is negative therefore, as long as you have a wire going essentially from the alt casing to the batt negative/classis and you are all set.

your alt (+) to batT (+) looks pretty long as well, you might want to try running the wire along the front of the engine to reduce the length.

I ran my alt(+) to batt(+) and my alt(-) to batt neg(-) under those black 90 degree round brackets at the front corners of the plastic engine covering