Bi-amping 1pair of speakers from a Pioneer head unit....?

[UnderdogGarage!]

Hi... I've replaced the original front speakers in my friends car with a pair of 6,5" coax speakers, and in stead of reconnecting the shitty speakers in the rear doors i've been thinking about bi-amping front and back channels. I've never thought of this as a possibility before and therefore never tried it either. I don't know where else to ask about it, and I don't have the instructions manual for the head unit either....

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Hi... I've replaced the original front speakers in my friends car with a pair of 6,5" coax speakers, and in stead of reconnecting the shitty speakers in the rear doors i've been thinking about bi-amping front and back channels. I've never thought of this as a possibility before and therefore never tried it either. I don't know where else to ask about it, and I don't have the instructions manual for the head unit either....

Bi-amping refers to each component having it's own channel. That would mean you would need 8 channels for 4 coaxial speakers, or 4 channels with the left tweeters bridged on the Fr.L channel and the left 6.5s bridged on the Re.L channel. That would not be ideal since the radio may not be able to handle the lower impedance. I am assuming you meant not using an amplifier since you mentioned the radio's manual.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

How are you going to bi-amp a set of coax speakers??? Are these a high end coax with outboard crossover(s)? Does the crossover allow for a bi-amp set up?

My guess is you're better off either hooking up the rears, leaving them disconnected or replacing them.

 

[UnderdogGarage!]

Bi-amping refers to each component having it's own channel. That would mean you would need 8 channels for 4 coaxial speakers, or 4 channels with the left tweeters bridged on the Fr.L channel and the left 6.5s bridged on the Re.L channel. That would not be ideal since the radio may not be able to handle the lower impedance. I am assuming you meant not using an amplifier since you mentioned the radio's manual.

That's correct... But this is coax speakers and therefore no way to separate the tweeters and woofers.
So my question is really about connecting the left front and rear + to the left speaker + connector, and likewise the front and rear - to the speaker. And of course do the same thing on the right side... I'm not sure if it's one main power source with the option for 4 channels, or if it's 4 separate power source's...

 

[UnderdogGarage!]

How are you going to bi-amp a set of coax speakers??? Are these a high end coax with outboard crossover(s)? Does the crossover allow for a bi-amp set up?

My guess is you're better off either hooking up the rears, leaving them disconnected or replacing them.

Bi-amping would simply be to use two channels to power one speaker, but if it was separated tweeters and woofers, that would mean that I was thinking of bi-wiring them... And that would be a totally different thing....

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

That's correct... But this is coax speakers and therefore no way to separate the tweeters and woofers.
So my question is really about connecting the left front and rear + to the left speaker + connector, and likewise the front and rear - to the speaker. And of course do the same thing on the right side... I'm not sure if it's one main power source with the option for 4 channels, or if it's 4 separate power source's...

In that case, it is not advisable to do that. Most radios support 4 Ohms per channel. What you are thinking is wiring in parallel. That drops the Ohm load in half of what each speaker is. In your case, I assume 4 Ohms per speaker which will drop it to 2 Ohms. The radio may burn out at that load. Using just the front speakers is common practice amongst car audio circles.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

but if it was separated tweeters and woofers, that would mean that I was thinking of bi-wiring them.

That would also be bi-amping if you are to use one channel for the tweeter and one for the full range.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

Bi-amping would simply be to use two channels to power one speaker, but if it was separated tweeters and woofers, that would mean that I was thinking of bi-wiring them... And that would be a totally different thing....

Bridging would using 2 channels to power a single driver or comp set. Bi-amping is when you power a comp set thru the passive crossover using 4 total channels. Active is when the crossover duties are handled at the preamp level and then 4 channels power a set of tweeters and midbass drivers. What you're suggesting has no name that I'm aware of since it's not something that is practiced in the audio community and is of no benefit.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

What you're suggesting has no name that I'm aware of since it's not something that is practiced in the audio community and is of no benefit.

What OP was referring to is running the speakers parallel. 2 coaxials to one chennel.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

What OP was referring to is running the speakers parallel. 2 coaxials to one chennel.

Re-read the original post. He plans to nix the "shitty speakers in the rear doors" and has one pair of coaxial speakers in the front. His intent is to run both the front and rear channels of the HU to the new coax's in the front (see post #4).

There is no benefit to wiring the system this way as voltage will not increase and therefore (per ohm's law) power will not increase. Not only that, but if OP ever decided to add rears, it would create additional work. Furthermore, if there is any type of phase or time alignment features on the HU, he risks blowing the op amp or power supply in the HU.

The only reason to wire the system in the manner the OP suggests would be to increase current capacity, but without a corresponding load increase, current draw won't increase and there will be no increase power (per ohm's law).

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Re-read the original post. He plans to nix the "shitty speakers in the rear doors" and has one pair of coaxial speakers in the front. His intent is to run both the front and rear channels of the HU to the new coax's in the front (see post #4).

Oh shoot, you are right! I read that completely wrong.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

back in the day some speakers were made with bi amp capabilities ..i have a few different sets ....but if you have a deck with active capabilities you can always do it the poor boy way ....youll have to run an extra pair of speaker wires to your door speakers ..then clip your tweeter wires behind wire terminal on speaker in the coax speakers and run your new speaker wires to those wires off the high side of deck ....if you coaxs have the high pass capacitor you can just tie in ....if not your deck eith active youll have to set high pass crossover 4khz is a good point ....
Then with your factory wires come off rear of deck and connect the door speakers ....if an active deck start at 100hz high pass and 4000hz low pass
Now your door speakers will get double the power ...easy as can be

 

[UnderdogGarage!]

Thank you for all replies and comments... I chose to connect it as it is supposed too with 4 speakers and the problem with overheating of the head unit is gone. So... Lesson learned...!

 

[spokey9]

Wth...