bi-amp (am i doing this right?)

thisistiny
10+ year member

Graphic Designer
Hey guys. I wanted to double check before i do this....

I'm trying to wire my Alpine spx-17ref crossovers....

Am i doing this right?

(don't mind the tape.. couldn't find a wire connector)

I appreciate the help :]

Btw. i'm using Knu Karma SS 16 Gauge Speaker Wire ... (not too crazy about the wires)

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i get the output part from the crossover. but worried about the input from the amp.. can i split the wires like that? from one wire? hopefully you guys get what i'm trying to say.. haha..

 
Wait, are you saying that:

you have 2 sets of wires coming from your 2ch amp; 1 neg 1 pos for each set, and you spliced 1 neg with 2 wires and 1 pos with 2 wires?

Because I think thats wrong.

I believe you need a 4ch amp to 'bi-amp' them. You run 1 ch to the left woofer crossover, 1ch to the left tweeter crossover, 1 ch to the right woofer crossover, 1ch to the right tweeter crossover.

Then those 4 pairs of wires have 4 pairs of wires going from the crossover to the correct speaker.

and apple sux //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
biamping:

ch 1 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 1 output to tweeter 1

ch 2 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 2 output to woofer 1

ch 3 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 3 output to tweeter 2

ch 4 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 4 output to woofer 2

exactly what Rjesus said, but might be easier to visualize. you would need probably want to run active xovers from your deck or something in this scenario.

 
Wait, are you saying that:
you have 2 sets of wires coming from your 2ch amp; 1 neg 1 pos for each set, and you spliced 1 neg with 2 wires and 1 pos with 2 wires?

Because I think thats wrong.

I believe you need a 4ch amp to 'bi-amp' them. You run 1 ch to the left woofer crossover, 1ch to the left tweeter crossover, 1 ch to the right woofer crossover, 1ch to the right tweeter crossover.

Then those 4 pairs of wires have 4 pairs of wires going from the crossover to the correct speaker.

and apple sux //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
i see i see. i guess i'll just run my rear speakers off the deck and put all 4 channels to the components. Thanks for the help bro!

BTW. i bought a mac about 6 months ago and i love it! but honestly i was fine with a PC too. so i'm good either way.. but i'm keeping the mac for now! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

i also have a mac at work.. so fugg it. (its a graphic art thing.. haha)

 
biamping:
ch 1 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 1 output to tweeter 1

ch 2 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 2 output to woofer 1

ch 3 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 3 output to tweeter 2

ch 4 input to amp ----------- amp ----------ch 4 output to woofer 2

exactly what Rjesus said, but might be easier to visualize. you would need probably want to run active xovers from your deck or something in this scenario.
haha yes thanks for clearing it up for me.. so your saying after i bi-amp it i should run active?

 
bi-amping is like a half-assed version of going active.

The only difference is going active allows you to choose your crossover points & choose your gains for both the tweet and the woofer. With bi-amping you can only choose your gains, can't set the crossover points.

But honestly, Theres nothing wrong with passive crossovers. And usually bi-amping doesn't make that much of a difference. Pretty much the only thing its good for is attenuating your tweeters, but most passive crossovers have 0 db -3 db -6db options to attenuate them. If you don't think your tweeter is too loud, then theres no reason to bi-amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
bi-amping is like a half-assed version of going active.
The only difference is going active allows you to choose your crossover points & choose your gains for both the tweet and the woofer. With bi-amping you can only choose your gains, can't set the crossover points.

But honestly, Theres nothing wrong with passive crossovers. And usually bi-amping doesn't make that much of a difference. Pretty much the only thing its good for is attenuating your tweeters, but most passive crossovers have 0 db -3 db -6db options to attenuate them. If you don't think your tweeter is too loud, then theres no reason to bi-amp //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

This.

And if you do bi-amp, make sure you look at your instruction manual. There will be a jumper or two that you'll need to remove from your crossovers, should be the two in the middle where it says signal link.

 
Thanks for all the help guys..

See? ppl do help on this forum.. haha~!

but ya.. i don't even want my spx-17ref anymore.. i should have bought the spr-17s instead... it was cheaper too. ughh. maybe i'll put it up for a trade...

 
yes, of course.

you have to compare the current configuration of the crossovers to the manual.

You need to know if they're already set for bi-amping, or if they're set for normal use.

As someone before me has said, there should be a few jumpers you'll have to change.

But your really going to have to find a manual and look at it to find exactly how its done.

 
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thisistiny

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