Best 8" or 10" Sub for 300w RMS @ 2Ohm

Final Question though. If I get more output with a larger sub, 8 vs 10, with the same amount of power going to each, that doesn't quite make sense? Isn't it more efficient to use a smaller sub and over power it than to under power a larger sub? Because I was under the impression I should match my sub to the amount of power I plan to supply it with.
I'll elaborate on what profundus stated.

It's going to depend greatly on driver efficiency, cone surface area, and excursion.

It's quite possible to find an 8" driver that is more efficient than a given 10" driver, has around the same (or more) xmax than the same 10", and has a bit more surface area than other 8" drivers (square vs round comes to mind here), and will reach max linear excursion with the power you have available.

If all the above are true, then one could assume that the 8" driver might just have more output than the 10" driver. This is usually not the case except in certain instances, as there is no replacement for displacement.... a 10" driver will generally have more output than an 8" driver if the enclosure, installation (including tuning), and power are adequate.

If you pay enough respect in term of the quality of the installation, I have no doubt you will be happy with a good 8" driver.

 
I'll elaborate on what profundus stated.
It's going to depend greatly on driver efficiency, cone surface area, and excursion.

It's quite possible to find an 8" driver that is more efficient than a given 10" driver, has around the same (or more) xmax than the same 10", and has a bit more surface area than other 8" drivers (square vs round comes to mind here), and will reach max linear excursion with the power you have available.

If all the above are true, then one could assume that the 8" driver might just have more output than the 10" driver. This is usually not the case except in certain instances, as there is no replacement for displacement.... a 10" driver will generally have more output than an 8" driver if the enclosure, installation (including tuning), and power are adequate.

If you pay enough respect in term of the quality of the installation, I have no doubt you will be happy with a good 8" driver.
truth. if you really don't quite have enough cubic footage for a 10 you'd be better off with an 8 than craming a 10 in there, since the box would be much more adequate with an 8.

I recently tested this w/ a tc 5200 18 vs a 5200 15 in 4.5 cubic feet w/ 2 6" flared pvc ports. The 15 sounded better, was louder on low frequencies, barely lost anything on the top end and had a much nicer response curve(something that didn't roll off in the high 40's).

 
I'll elaborate on what profundus stated.
It's going to depend greatly on driver efficiency, cone surface area, and excursion.

It's quite possible to find an 8" driver that is more efficient than a given 10" driver, has around the same (or more) xmax than the same 10", and has a bit more surface area than other 8" drivers (square vs round comes to mind here), and will reach max linear excursion with the power you have available.

If all the above are true, then one could assume that the 8" driver might just have more output than the 10" driver. This is usually not the case except in certain instances, as there is no replacement for displacement.... a 10" driver will generally have more output than an 8" driver if the enclosure, installation (including tuning), and power are adequate.

If you pay enough respect in term of the quality of the installation, I have no doubt you will be happy with a good 8" driver.
truth. if you really don't quite have enough cubic footage for a 10 you'd be better off with an 8 than craming a 10 in there, since the box would be much more adequate with an 8. I recently tested this w/ a tc 5200 18 vs a 5200 15 in 4.5 cubic feet w/ 2 6" flared pvc ports. The 15 sounded better, was louder on low frequencies, barely lost anything on the top end and had a much nicer response curve(something that didn't roll off in the high 40's).
Thank You both. I am reminded every time I cheap'd out on something I often got burned. The Assassin looks great, I even watched the YouTube videos of it. But then comparing it to for EX: the SS RL-i8 which is almost twice as much, don't you get what you pay for? Yes, I often see the W7 as a reference to these cheaper subs and everyone makes a great argument of how comparable, yet affordable they are. But quality wise, am I missing something not buying the expensive option?

Though the question above is more for my eagerness to learn, I did choose a sub. but I wasn't expecting this much of a response on my thread. So it comes down to this:

Based on the SQ raves about Image Dynamics, no replacement for displacement, I found a 10" with an OD of less than 10.5", and instead of going with a $100 8":

ID10V3 in 1.37 cft tuned to 30hz

Thanks again for all the responses guys, I wasn't expecting this much of a response.

 
Thank You both. I am reminded every time I cheap'd out on something I often got burned. The Assassin looks great, I even watched the YouTube videos of it. But then comparing it to for EX: the SS RL-i8 which is almost twice as much, don't you get what you pay for? Yes, I often see the W7 as a reference to these cheaper subs and everyone makes a great argument of how comparable, yet affordable they are. But quality wise, am I missing something not buying the expensive option?
Though the question above is more for my eagerness to learn, I did choose a sub. but I wasn't expecting this much of a response on my thread. So it comes down to this:

Based on the SQ raves about Image Dynamics, no replacement for displacement, I found a 10" with an OD of less than 10.5", and instead of going with a $100 8":

ID10V3 in 1.37 cft tuned to 30hz

Thanks again for all the responses guys, I wasn't expecting this much of a response.
Thats a good choice, I dont know how your going to get 1.37 Unless its higher than the center console by a good bit. My box specs are W10.75XD14.5XH11.5 That way I can open the center console. Its .695 using 3/4 mdf

 
Thank You both. I am reminded every time I cheap'd out on something I often got burned. The Assassin looks great, I even watched the YouTube videos of it. But then comparing it to for EX: the SS RL-i8 which is almost twice as much, don't you get what you pay for? Yes, I often see the W7 as a reference to these cheaper subs and everyone makes a great argument of how comparable, yet affordable they are. But quality wise, am I missing something not buying the expensive option?
Nope, you won't be missing out on anything. The Assassins are solid subs and always have been. In fact, these newer models are a huge step up from the previous models. Don't be afraid of the low price.... they are priced to sell quick and don't carry the added cost burden of advertising.

 
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