Beaten to death...I know...but..?

[the727kid 10+ year member]

Umm, how do I check that. I know they are good grounds, sanded down to shiny bare metal, no noises or pops.

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

Alt FTW.. Adding another 0 gauge wire would also help.

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

Umm, how do I check that. I know they are good grounds, sanded down to shiny bare metal, no noises or pops.

DMM

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

Yea, I know with a DMM but how on the DMM, set it to DC and look for?

What does FTW mean I see it all the time on here.

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

Yea, I know with a DMM but how on the DMM, set it to DC and look for?
What does FTW mean I see it all the time on here.

I love when ppl don't know internet jokes.

You set the DMM to test continuity, it should read 0.0 ideally.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

I was looking at Iraggi alts, and they have one that is 200amp max and 175 idle for my car, that should be enough right?

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

You'll still get dimming. I'd get the alt and run another 0 gauge wire to the amps before you add another battery. Either that or get a bigger ho alt.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

You think I will still get dimming at 200amps/175idle? I was mainly looking at that one because of the 175 idle.

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

You think I will still get dimming at 200amps/175idle? I was mainly looking at that one because of the 175 idle.

Probably, yeah. That's a real good idle number, but if you are constantly pulling more than the alt can provide you'll probably have some dimming.

Think about this. If you are running your system full bore and it really makes 2500 watts, then with an efficiency of 70% you'd be drawing around 255 amps from the alternator (not including the draw from the other components in the car). In this case (which wouldn't happen too much) you would get some voltage drops and dimming.

 

[Thnking 10+ year member]

Umm, how do I check that. I know they are good grounds, sanded down to shiny bare metal, no noises or pops.

Doesn't matter, your grounds could still be sub-par.

Grab a piece of wire, measure resistance across it on your DMM, write the # down.

Attach one piece of wire to the battery (-) one to the DMM probe. Start testing resistance points at your grounding locations and subtract the initial DMM wire # to get the actual resistance #. Check it at all your grounds including your battery. You could easily have a large drop across the points, also check your drop over the 0 gauge length loading 120amps (little under the size of your alternator). Make sure it's under .2V.

I'm just making sure that your problem is actually internal resistance of the alternator dropping voltage, and not drops along your lines / grounds.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

Probably, yeah. That's a real good idle number, but if you are constantly pulling more than the alt can provide you'll probably have some dimming.
Think about this. If you are running your system full bore and it really makes 2500 watts, then with an efficiency of 70% you'd be drawing around 255 amps from the alternator (not including the draw from the other components in the car). In this case (which wouldn't happen too much) you would get some voltage drops and dimming.

So how bout a 260 Iraggi Alt? Do you know what their rated amp output is at (rpm wise), it says an idle of 110:crap: . I don't want my shit cutting off cuz I'm sitting at a long *** red light.

 

[the727kid 10+ year member]

Or with that much power am I going to have to **** it up and spend the extra $100 to get the amputator series?

 

[Big Dee 10+ year member]

So how bout a 260 Iraggi Alt? Do you know what their rated amp output is at (rpm wise), it says an idle of 110:crap: . I don't want my shit cutting off cuz I'm sitting at a long *** red light.

I'd get the biggest alt you can find. Better to have dimming just at some long idles than to have drops all the time.