bass boost non sense

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

Why do many amps have +12db bass boost!? In what world does a cheap azz 500wrms amp need a 1,600% boost???

At 100watts boosted to +12db is 1,600wrms.......for a 500watt amp.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

why do they design amps with such outright stupid features.

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[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Marketing and so noobs blow stuff up and have to buy more stuff

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

well when used properly it can make a difference in sound but is unnecessary and like said above an easy way to have noobs blow up there equipment so they have to buy new stuff

 

[jar1zx 10+ year member]

For music that has no bass the bass boost is nice but some amps have too much like the kx2500.1 I got from you, it has crazy amounts of bass boost. I think it's +18db bass boost

I've played with it a lil but never needed 18db of boost

 

[jar1zx 10+ year member]

I ran into the guy I sold my epic 160 to and he said he would sale it back to me!!

For songs that don't have a lot of bass the epic 160 is better than bass boost.

 

[05fronty 5,000+ posts]

All my boost and my gain is maxed! I like to live on the edge

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Why do many amps have +12db bass boost!? In what world does a cheap azz 500wrms amp need a 1' date='600% boost???
At 100watts boosted to +12db is 1,600wrms.......for a 500watt amp.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

why do they design amps with such outright stupid features.[/quote']You're looking at it all wrong, bro. You don't apply boost after you're sitting at 500w of actual output.

It's a single band of EQ that you apply until you get the character of bass you're looking for, and then you apply gain. So you apply your 500w RMS with dynamic music and keep it clean, then your peak power capabilites are there for headroom, probably around 800-900w real world dynamic headroom.

Bass boost is actually a useful feature, guys. If your amplfiier has it, consider it a free band of equalization. If you have an EQ somewhere else in the chain, then leave it alone. No need for it. But if you use it, set it to the sound you like before you set your gain.

 

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

The point is, if you are playing a song and is pulling 300watts for a 100hz bass line, then the note switches to 40hz and is boosted to +6db, the amp will try to put out 1,200watts..........all the while your amp is only rated 500watts.

Certain songs have non-stop sine waves and every time the notes switch to those that are boosted, the amp will try to put out power that will kill it and the subs.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

You're looking at it all wrong, bro. You don't apply boost after you're sitting at 500w of actual output.
It's a single band of EQ that you apply until you get the character of bass you're looking for, and then you apply gain. So you apply your 500w RMS with dynamic music and keep it clean, then your peak power capabilites are there for headroom, probably around 800-900w real world dynamic headroom.

Bass boost is actually a useful feature, guys. If your amplfiier has it, consider it a free band of equalization. If you have an EQ somewhere else in the chain, then leave it alone. No need for it. But if you use it, set it to the sound you like before you set your gain.

Thisssssssssss. Noobs using it improperly gave it a bad name.

Noobs ITT.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

The point is' date=' if you are playing a song and is pulling 300watts for a 100hz bass line, then the note switches to 40hz and is boosted to +6db, the amp will try to put out 1,200watts..........all the while your amp is only rated 500watts.
Certain songs have non-stop sine waves and every time the notes switch to those that are boosted, the amp will try to put out power that will kill it and the subs.[/quote']

That's why you have to know how to use it properly. You have to know the frequency you're boosting at, and then set gains at that frequency.

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

The point is' date=' if you are playing a song and is pulling 300watts for a 100hz bass line, then the note switches to 40hz and is boosted to +6db, the amp will try to put out 1,200watts..........all the while your amp is only rated 500watts.
Certain songs have non-stop sine waves and every time the notes switch to those that are boosted, the amp will try to put out power that will kill it and the subs.[/quote']I see the point you are trying to make. You've learned about power demands regarding boost and you're concerned. Try not to focus on the clipping aspect, rather the total dynamic range. Actual dynamic range is what music is all about. It's that range from a 1/4 watt to the 900 watt transient peak output capability on your 500 watt RMS amplifier (as an example). You're not always at 500w and then, shit... clipping because I'm stupid. Sine waves are a different story, of course. And from time to time we all listen to them, beatin' down the block or whatever. I'm guilty. But I always know that I'm safely within thermal and mechanical limits because I pair my equipment appropriately and set it up correctly. If you 'only' have 500w RMS to work with, then you need to make sure that 500w will own whatever driver it's being applied to. This way your main concern is mechanical and your thermal isn't being reached. This allows your amplifer's peak output capabilites to remain untapped until dynamic peaks come along. This means you must be fully aware of all aspects related to your driver, your enclosure, your amplifier, etc...

You can hear clipping. Sometimes, so clearly that you would absolutely swear that it's a mechanical noise. Even soft clipping has a distinct fuzzy kind of noise to it, and can be harmless in the right setup. But the point is... you can hear it. Unless you're using this shit that makes a ton of mechanical noise to begin with, in which case you could probably piss pound that thing without any worries, anyway. Regardless...If you're using boost to get a better quality of bass character, and you're dealing with 500w, then you're probably not setting up an SPL machine and you will turn up the gain until you hear clipping, then back it off to just the onset of clipping. Then you will shut the trunk and look at the number on your deck to remind you of the general area in which you will experience clipping and use your equipment accordingly. Right?

100Hz belongs in your front stage. Try making a sub-bass system that operates in the range of sub-bass, like from 15Hz to 45ishHz. find out where your mechanical limits are, then find out where your amplifier's clipping limits are. Reach the comprimise and BAM!!! Safe zone! Work within your limitations and nothing will break. Unless you bought junk...

 

[Beatin' 10+ year member]

That's why you have to know how to use it properly. You have to know the frequency you're boosting at, and then set gains at that frequency.

Then all the other frequencies won't play as loud if the HU is tuned to the amp with a frequency that has been boosted considerably.

For example, 40hz is boosted +6db and is tuned to get 500watts at 30/50 on your HU. When a 100hz note is played, the amp will only put out 125watts.

I guess if a person wants their system to sound like that, that's fine. I think it's completely retarded.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Then all the other frequencies won't play as loud if the HU is tuned to the amp with a frequency that has been boosted considerably.
For example' date=' 40hz is boosted +6db and is tuned to get 500watts at 30/50 on your HU. When a 100hz note is played, the amp will only put out 125watts.

I guess if a person wants their system to sound like that, that's fine. I think it's completely retarded.[/quote']

Correct. But the same thing happens with your front stage. If that's the sound someone prefers, then the option is there. Life's all about choices!

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Then all the other frequencies won't play as loud if the HU is tuned to the amp with a frequency that has been boosted considerably.
For example' date=' 40hz is boosted +6db and is tuned to get 500watts at 30/50 on your HU. When a 100hz note is played, the amp will only put out 125watts.

I guess if a person wants their system to sound like that, that's fine. I think it's completely retarded.[/quote']

Correct. But the same thing happens with your front stage. If that's the sound someone prefers, then the option is there. Life's all about choices!

 

[ciaonzo 5,000+ posts]

Then all the other frequencies won't play as loud if the HU is tuned to the amp with a frequency that has been boosted considerably.
For example' date=' 40hz is boosted +6db and is tuned to get 500watts at 30/50 on your HU. When a 100hz note is played, the amp will only put out 125watts.

I guess if a person wants their system to sound like that, that's fine. I think it's completely retarded.[/quote']Playing 100Hz through yuor subwoofers is retarded.

Yes, sometimes some frequencies play quieter tahn others. It's called music, lol. Your car may be able to go 140 mPH but are you always driving it that fast? Sometimes you hit the rev limiter (yes, clipping analogy) on the way up to 65 MPH if you shift late. Are you picking up what I'm laying down?

I'm not sure if you're really this obtuse or if you're troliing. If a human body were an analogy for this discussion, you are studying a pore while I'm trying to get you to look at the whole body. You need to look at the big picture. Not all music is recorded the same way and not every song will be played within an inch of the system's limits.

JUST FIND OUT WHERE YOUR LIMITS ARE AND STAY WITHIN THEM. The flexibility is built in to the gear to account for most retards.