ATTN: Those with a lot of TROUBLESHOOTING experience w/ power

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

Honestly in a situation like this process of elimination is the best start. If you haven't already pull the amp put another one in. Bump it for a while see if same thing happens. If not then it is the amp. If so then bypass the head unit by using somebody else's signal .. and just keep going step by step... Pain the butt but prob the only way to find out

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

11.8 resting isn't all that great for a battery. Could be on the way out. Alt seems fine if you're getting 14.4 at idle.

How old is the battery? Also make sure your power/ground wires off the battery aren't corroded inside. See if the wire feels stiff or brittle anywhere.

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

Honestly in a situation like this process of elimination is the best start. If you haven't already pull the amp put another one in. Bump it for a while see if same thing happens. If not then it is the amp. If so then bypass the head unit by using somebody else's signal .. and just keep going step by step... Pain the butt but prob the only way to find out

Well I bought the car last summer and have yet to replace it, but havent had a reason to....so the low reading with the car out shows the battery's true strength?? I didnt think it would matter with the car on, or off...but im not sure.

UPDATE....I got in my car this morning....subs were off, tweeters were off....somethin was messed up on the radio, so I just reset it, and everything came back on....I wonder if I have 2 problems here....but that is the FIRST TIME my speakers have cut out EVER with this system.

 

[DBDRAGGUY 10+ year member]

If you have tried multiple amps and multiple batteries as it says in the OP. The only thing you can do is Troubleshoot your wiring, I agree with snoopdan. Remote voltage would be the first thing I would check. Try moving your remote source to a 12v constant and see if your problem still exists, if it does put it back and change your grounding point. This would be my first course of action and BTW if it is a ground fix it fast because your amp and everything else will try to pull ground through the speaker outputs and that is not so good. Hope this helps.

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

Yeah I can't remember where I read it. But I think 11.8 Is like 10 percent charge or something. and is a bad battery.. Or pretty close. Been a while since I read it though

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

Ahhh found it. not sure if it is accurate but here ya go

Open Circuit Voltage (12V) Open Circuit Voltage (6V) Approximate charge Relative acid density

12.65 V 6.3 V 100% 1.265

12.45 V 6.2 V 75% 1.225

12.24 V 6.1 V 50% 1.190

12.06 V 6.0 V 25% 1.155

11.89 V 6.0 V 0% 1.120

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

grrr dangit. I took the time to space the columns out and the numbers and when i posted it grouped them. sorry just read the text and follow. pretty easy to read

 

[snb778 5,000+ posts]

is that saying 12.5V is fully charged??

 

[lilmaniac2 5,000+ posts]

check all your connections

 

[vehementSPL 10+ year member]

is that saying 12.5V is fully charged??

It says approx. and it says 12.65 means at rest prob after the car has sat for a while

 

[ProgMtl 10+ year member]

my battery is at 12.72 most of the time at rest

 

[ProgMtl 10+ year member]

next question...may be a stupid one...but, what size power & ground do you have on the amps?

 

[ProgMtl 10+ year member]

I'm assuming that amp is 3000rms@1ohm? Do you have any other amps?

So you're running this amp of a stock alternator? Or do you have a HO alternator? And just how old is the Kinetic battery?

Sounds to me if you're running a stock alternator with that amp your getting massive flucuations from it because you're killing it.

 

[lostdaytomorrow 10+ year member]

Try replacing in-line fuses.