At what Amp(Car Stereo)watt level usage does Battery voltage need to be upgraded

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

At what point would a battery upgrade become a necessity. I'll be pushing an 1800Watt amp, I don't really plan on going above that point at this point. My concern is pushing the battery I own now too hard (get the specs on the voltage later). What if any are the dangers/drawbacks of using drawing too much power from the battery with my car-audio system. Would it become drained much faster, would the car be in danger of shutting off, shorting out? I may not need to get a Yellowtop or Kinetic to power this system, perhaps just another battery with a higher voltage, not sure. What Is typically the wattage in car audio systems that it become a necessity to upgrade the battery? I've heard 2,000watts? PS: Getting another battery to power the amp and subs alone is not an option at this point. Thanks to anyone that can answer this.

WoofersEtc.com - KAC-9105D - Kenwood Mono 1800 Watt Amplifier

Click to read more...

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Upgrade the battery when the current draw of the amp exceeds the output of the alt. That amp isnt an 1800w amp. The 1800 part is a made up number to make you think you are getting more than you actually are. Realistically, that amp won't put out much over 500rms. Get a different amp, that kenwood is a huge piece of shit and its a rip off at that price. I wouldn't even pay $50 for that.

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

Upgrade the battery when the current draw of the amp exceeds the output of the alt. That amp isnt an 1800w amp. The 1800 part is a made up number to make you think you are getting more than you actually are. Realistically, that amp won't put out much over 500rms. Get a different amp, that kenwood is a huge piece of shit and its a rip off at that price. I wouldn't even pay $50 for that.

Well why don't you recommend me something else (around the $200.00 range)? Regardless if it's really 1800 or not I'm not looking to push more than 1000 for my subs.

Also may I ask what type of subs you are using, what type of subs do you recommend around $200.00 a piece), thanks.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

something like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23874_MB-Quart-ONX1.1000D.html

and either of these:

Sub Woofers - SoundSolutionsAudio - DCON - SSA STORE

Sub Woofers - Sundown Audio - E Series - SSA STORE

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/categories/sub-woofers/sundown-audio/sd-series.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/categories/sub-woofers/sundown-audio/sa-series.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/categories/sub-woofers/soundsolutionsaudio/gcon.html

And the subs I'm using are some 6yr old discontinued Boston Acoustics subs (pictured below) that are giving me some fantastic output with the help of a specially designed ported box.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Jag. I suggested that amp because it would match the other Kenwood amp you have., In the same sentence, i suggested using the kenwood 7205 on your Diamonds.

The reference to 1800w MAX means that it has the ability to produce more than rms on musical peaks, or Transients. This does not mean the amp can sustain 1800 watts output power continuously. This is why it is recommended to shop based on RMS continuous output. Personally, I have not bench tested the Kenwood KAC-9501D to determine how many watts it will continually produce unclipped. I doubt many here have, if any. Would I recommend a different amp for the $? Sure. Based on your choices of equipment and the utilization of said equipment, the Kenwood would be a perfect match.

My answer to your electrical upgrade question:

You stated you have done a Big 3 electrical wiring upgrade. If you plan to use the 9501 (900watts x 1 RMS @ 1ohm), it would be strongly recommended to purchase a dash mounted voltage meter to keep an eye on system voltages ( I would bet the 9501's rated RMS was tested at 14.4v). At 13v, the 9501 may only be able to produce 600watts...but I can only speculate......Now do you understand why I recommended you to use your old subs on the 7205 bridged and save your money for future educated equipment upgrades?

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

probably one of the most overlooked pieces of stereo equipment:

Xscorpion DVM23SB 3-Digit LED Digital Voltage Display VoltMeter

something like this under the hood for the big 3 and 1000-1500 rms watts in the VW, IMO:

XS Power D1200 Deep cycle 12-volt battery at Crutchfield.com

 

[Eddie_24 10+ year member]

I had the 9105D in my first ever system set-up about a year ago, I initially had a simple subs and amp set-up. This amp made my head-lights dim very noticeably, and it was keeping somewhere between a 12.8-13.5 volts and I had it tested at the shop i bought the amp from and it wasn't putting out the true 900RMS it claims at 2 ohms, it was close though. It was somewhere in the 800+ range, but then I added an extra battery and upgraded my front battery and it kept a solid 14 volts at most times and it started putting out what it claimed... If I was you, if you don't want to do some electrical upgrades, Id find an amp that is rated for its watts at 12-13volts constant.

That MB Quart amp that was suggested earlier is a good choice in my opinion. But you still probably need to at least upgrade your starting battery.

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

Don't buy that XS, go to your local battery shop and see if they have any blemished group 31's....any brand will do. That will save you easily $125

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

I decided to rephrase the original question. I appreciate the time some people took to make replies, but the replies has nothing to do with the question specifically asked in the title of the thread. Again if someone could answer that for me, please enlighten me. I probably should have mentioned I do have the Big 3 Upgrade wiring (0 Gauge) properly installed by myself. It definitely helped with not only the car audio but all accessories (headlights/dashboard lights etc). Besides headlight dimming, at what point do other drawbacks come into play if the amp draws too much power from the battery. Will the car shut off, can it damage the alternator, damage the battery, meltdowns etc. Thanks for any feedback on this specific question! I know my amp and battery need to be upgraded, that's not my question though.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Jag. I suggested that amp because it would match the other Kenwood amp you have., In the same sentence, i suggested using the kenwood 7205 on your Diamonds.
The reference to 1800w MAX means that it has the ability to produce more than rms on musical peaks, or Transients. This does not mean the amp can sustain 1800 watts output power continuously. This is why it is recommended to shop based on RMS continuous output. Personally, I have not bench tested the Kenwood KAC-9501D to determine how many watts it will continually produce unclipped. I doubt many here have, if any. Would I recommend a different amp for the $? Sure. Based on your choices of equipment and the utilization of said equipment, the Kenwood would be a perfect match.

The Kenwood is a terrible match, look at the signal to noise ratio....pitiful! How about thd for the power ratings? they don't even give it because it would deter sales.... peak power means nothing and should never be paid attention to and if you think peak power is important in any way shape or form, just get off your computer and go hang out at your local flea market and slide your **** into the pole vent of a Lanzar or whatever the current trailer park boner is.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I decided to rephrase the original question. I appreciate the time some people took to make replies, but the replies has nothing to do with the question specifically asked in the title of the thread. Again if someone could answer that for me, please enlighten me. I probably should have mentioned I do have the Big 3 Upgrade wiring (0 Gauge) properly installed by myself. It definitely helped with not only the car audio but all accessories (headlights/dashboard lights etc). Besides headlight dimming, at what point do other drawbacks come into play if the amp draws too much power from the battery. Will the car shut off, can it damage the alternator, damage the battery, meltdowns etc. Thanks for any feedback on this specific question! I know my amp and battery need to be upgraded, that's not my question though.

Let's venture into speculation. I do not know the specifics of your alternator or battery. The alt. is there to provide x amount of amperage through a regulated x amount of voltage to a storage device, ie; Battery. This battery is designed to be charged and release an x amount of amps over a x amount of time, with a reserve for sudden release.

The manufacturer designs an allowance in the alternators output ability. Lets' say for example 25% for "accessories".

Suppose the VW alt produces 100 amps at highway speed. Your cars electrical at night with headlights, phone charger, GPS stuck to the windshield, etc. is using a continuous 75 amps. The equipment in the car is requiring the battery to discharge this amperage at a rate lower than the alternator is supplying, thus maintaining a continuous stable flow of electricity.

Now put a amplifier in the mix that is capable of drawing 50 amps of current on a heavy bass note at full tilt...as you turn up the volume, you notice the headlights dimming with the beat, especially those long, heavy bass parts of the song...the headlights are dimming is your cars battery amperage is being drawn down quicker than it is being supplied at a rate beyond what it is designed to release. As the electrical system destabilizes, the components are trying to work doubletime to maintain a stable voltage supplying the amperage (Current). When the voltage drops below the amplifiers design specs, the amp can fail..quickly. There is alot more to research in an amplifier than just wattages or thd's...and the cheapest power for the $$ can cost more than you bargain for. Kenwood makes good stereos though.

The big 3 is to help ensure each component has sufficient wiring to ensure current flow. The weakest link in OEM electrical systems is the wiring itself. I have burned wires, as a lesson (ps FUSE the ALt to Batt+ wire!). I have replaced many OEM sized lead acid batteries due to internal plate failure. The big wires and a $200 battery suitable to the required amperage throughput will save money vs fried electrical and a new $80 every few months for a battery replacement still not suitable for the job..

The AGM Battery I posted earlier was an example, as stated.(I prefer Kinetic) There are cheaper, there are more expensive. It is recommended to talk to the battery manufacturer and discuss the system design and vehicle fit before any AGM purchase.

I am sure I might have missed something, or maybe a misused term here or there....but perhaps some of the more knowledgeable and experienced can add to this thread

 

[Jaguar 10+ year member]

(ps FUSE the ALt to Batt+ wire!). I have replaced many OEM sized lead acid batteries due to internal plate failure.

Are you speaking of fusing the alt to battery wire or adding fuses. I believe I had a 300watt fuse on the 0 gauge wire (Big 3 Upgrade wiring to the alternator to positive on the battery). Another smaller fuse leading the positive on my battery to the system (Got to be around 100watt). As for the advice on the Kenwood amp. I have no idea what the actual wattage is on that. 1800 is probably the peak. My dealer told me I cannot wire that amp to 1 ohm, only 2 or 4 ohm. I'm like "that's what it says on the specifications", he's like ''I doubt it", so I just start laughing. What am I supposed to say after that. He may have even told me that Kenwood WoofersEtc.com - KAC-9105D - Kenwood Mono 1800 Watt Amplifier was not even a proper mono-block. What the heck, fake mono-blocks. Enlighten me someone.

 

Ps: I personally do not think that Kenwood amp is a bad amp, I'm no advanced user, and understand you get what you pay for, but it would probably do the job. At this point I am still very open to suggestions for a NEW amp under that reaches the following criteria: $200.00-$250.00 range. 1 ohm. / class d / mono-block. My subwoofers are 400RMS/800Peak Kicker Cvr's. Thanks.