As if the woody wagon doesn't weigh enough already...

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Something about calling it the 'woody wagon'... I dunno... sounds kinda like a rolling sausage factory?

j/k lol Looks good.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

~ $300 Luckily I sold a lot of books back this quarter. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/woot.gif.aaa6090e619a97b6090d16dd863c5a69.gif

that cost a pretty penny for deadening. I need to pick up around 80ft^2 of whatever i can afford, most likely fatmat.

I see more and more people using a combination of sound deadening materials now. Gets me thinking if i should look in to some other stuff too such as the paint on deadener.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

that cost a pretty penny for deadening. I need to pick up around 80ft^2 of whatever i can afford, most likely fatmat.
I see more and more people using a combination of sound deadening materials now. Gets me thinking if i should look in to some other stuff too such as the paint on deadener.

You know what they say, ignorance is bliss, and a whole lot cheaper.

 

[duece212 5,000+ posts]

that cost a pretty penny for deadening. I need to pick up around 80ft^2 of whatever i can afford, most likely fatmat.
I see more and more people using a combination of sound deadening materials now. Gets me thinking if i should look in to some other stuff too such as the paint on deadener.

I'd do fatmat on the floor and nowhere else.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

I'd do fatmat on the floor and nowhere else.

im not a stickler on SQ, i just want to decrease road noise and vibration in general. It doesn't have to be top notch as that tends to empty my wallet to fast

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Meh.

nG

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

im not a stickler on SQ, i just want to decrease road noise and vibration in general. It doesn't have to be top notch as that tends to empty my wallet to fast

I recommend Raammat or second skin. They stick like there's no tomorrow... If you're going to go cheap, just get peel and seal, atleast when it falls off you're not out much.

If your deadener gets hot and falls off, then it can't keep anything from resonating... IMO.

You could stretch out what I'm using a lot further than I am, and the $300 price is a lot more than just deadener. FWIW

I need to go to the hardware store and get a small sheet of 1/2" MDF and then hit up michaels for some clay... These 3/4" baffles put the speakers too close to the grilles, but the back of the speaker is already JUST BARELY missing the window when it rolls down.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

I'm making some progress on the passenger side door panel now... Got to glue it all back together now.... I also need to load up some new batteries!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

I use a mix of fatmat and SS and have went verticle with my fatmat and has been out in 90 plus degree weather for days at a time with no problem what so ever. Both holding up and doing their jobs as far as I can tell.

Looks good punk, makes me not want to put off my doors any longer.........not! I hate sound deadening! Oh well, one day I will get to it.

Good luck on the rest of the install.

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

Here's what I did last night....

I disassembled the Door panels into three parts: Upper, Lower, and pocket. First I fixed the broken mounting holes and clips with plastic epoxy. Then I cleaned everything off and laid some deadener.... not a whole lot, just enough to get the really thin sound out of the plastic. Then I used copious amounts of silicone to put everything back together, plastic welding where I could. You really have to be careful not to let the silicone spooge out the other side, but luckily, that wasn't a lesson I had to learn, worked out well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I've done that to both panels so far, they are both back together. Now I'm working on getting all the little parts back on. The marker lights I'm just siliconing in... everything else I'll probably attach the same as factory and then fix any squeaks when I get that UHMW Tape.

I pulled all of the switch panels apart and reassembled them with silicone on the mounting surfaces which SEEMED to get rid of some clicks and squeeks when they were twisted... Yes, overkill, but I wouldn't have it any other way... (obviously).

Pictures!

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

 

[SocMunky 10+ year member]

Nice job on the "CA"! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

You don't even get a feel for JUST HOW MUCH silicone is on in those pictures. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Is you plastic welder the WELLER gun? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Lol...

nG

 

[UndercoverPunk 5,000+ posts]

I suppose there is a difference then? The other shit I've seen called plastic weld is goo... like epoxy that melts the plastic together...

It had plastic welds before, that's how I've always heard them referred to, so yes, plastic weld in this case = plastic melted together with a flat tip on my weller soldering gun.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Ok.

I was referring to an actual plastic welder. We had one at the shop... It's like a soldering iron, but with the tip on it and the end has a small tubular hole in it. Then you feed plastic rods through it to melt/weld the plastic back...

nG