AP 1800 Louder then saz 3000d..Why?

Awesome post dump pal. Also, why is "than" of importance in that sentence?[/quote im waiting to see the biggest size possible for my car (pontiac g6) and im just going to get it. whatever is the largest one i can buy
 
I still wouldnt trust a dmm to set gains on an amplifier because it doesn't take impedance rise into account
For daily rise does not come into play due to the fact it works both ways, the dmm method will work fine with any amp that does at least rated and you don't try tower it above that rating.

 
Oh well that's bad biz about swapping them. Are those voltages with the new amp or old? Did you set the gains properly on that amp, or just turn it up like you are doing on this one? I would think that amp would pull more than that at wide open, you may not have been seeing all of the power out of it; you might have had the gain lower than where you could have put it.
with the old one, it never went below 14. the new one it does. i never set a gain properly lol, on the ap i set it by ear.
 
with the old one, it never went below 14. the new one it does. i never set a gain properly lol, on the ap i set it by ear.
Ok, sounds like you did not have that SAZ turned up too far then, given that this amp is louder and the SAZ pulled less current. I know they are pretty efficient, but they aren't that efficient. Get a DMM, they are cheap, and set the gains well. It's not hard. But don't run your SAZ properly set on you current electrical when you get it back. There's a decent chance you will toast it again if you do. Keep it down until you can get some more DC current in there.

 
Ok, sounds like you did not have that SAZ turned up too far then, given that this amp is louder and the SAZ pulled less current. I know they are pretty efficient, but they aren't that efficient. Get a DMM, they are cheap, and set the gains well. It's not hard. But don't run your SAZ properly set on you current electrical when you get it back. There's a decent chance you will toast it again if you do. Keep it down until you can get some more DC current in there.
will do thanks

 
autosound. it was 2 of the things that blew, forgot what they were called. said it wasnt bad at all and only costed 120 to fix. 20$ parts 90$ labor lmao
Sorry if I am late to the party and this was already covered but I saw the pics of the blown amp bro. If one power supply fet died they should have replaced em all. They are all connected across the same two terminals that your buddy swapped the power and ground on. I would take it back and get your money back and send it to db-r . Power supply may not be operating normally even if the amp "works" . Hell some shady places nip out the one or two shorted fets and send you back on your way.

 
For daily rise does not come into play due to the fact it works both ways, the dmm method will work fine with any amp that does at least rated and you don't try tower it above that rating.
Rise does come into play if you are ussing a dmm. When you use a dmm you are looking for a set power output amount at a rated ohm level. Even if you wire the amp down to 1 ohm nominal it could be seeing impedance rise up to 2 ohms and if you use your dmm to set your amp to put out the amount of power its rated to do at 1 ohm without knowing about the impedance rise youre going to fry your amplifier

 
so what you suggest
an o-scope or a dd-1 are the only things I would use. preferably the o-scope, there is a decent one you can get for around 70 dollars that lets you find out your head unit max volume and set your gain levels but I can remember the name of it, hopefully someone else will chime in.

 
Voltage never drops below 12.9 at worst. usually between 13.4-14 volt. and it blew before because somebody put the power and ground backwards 

---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 PM ----------

 

hell no, the quality of the sundown is waay beter man i love it
Awesome post dump pal. Also, why is "than" of importance in that sentence?
LOL. If you don't get it, just don't worry about it then.

Benbenondatrack,

Just giving you **** //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Although, IMO, your charging system did not suffice with the SAZ-3000D, perhaps if you have a good group 31 battery in the trunk though, then just the H/O alternator you have coming will be needed. But, the more the better of course. Did you check and see what exactly that battery in your trunk is yet? 1ohm as your nominal impedance will certainly cause for some decent current draw. If/when you have that AP amplifier tuned and producing as much clean power as you'll be able to obtain, undoubtedly the SA will be louder, ONCE it has the charging system it needs to produce some powah. Takes power to "make" power; even though the SA is going to be much more efficient than the AP, being that it is twice as powerful there is no way around that.

There are a bunch of people not too far North of you, hell, send some members in Bloomington, IN some PMs (I'll look in my contacts list for the ones I used to talk to). You'll get a lesson and get what you need. And eventually you ought to grab yourself an O-scope if you plan on getting really far into mobile audio.

 
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