any reason why this would not work well?? pics!

funkyab
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
here is what i want to do.

In my upcoming build i want to still be able to somewhat easily access my spare tire well. I can build my box so it will just come to the edge where the tire accrss panel folds up.

I will build an amp rack placing the amps directly in front of the box but i want to be able to quickly and easily remove the entire rack in case i need to get to the tire.

My idea is to use heavy duty AC plugs to connect all of my wiring going through the speaker box to the amp rack.

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i would dedicate one whole receptacle to power and one to ground as each blade can only handle 12ga wire. 4GA power wire split to all 3 blades will give me plenty of contact. for the leades for the 4 speakers i will use 3 more receptacles and run a lead to each blade. I will come up with a solution for the quick release for the RCAs.

so exxentially the amp rack will plug directly into the base of the speaker box and can simply be unpluged and removed when necessary.

I hope i have been descriptive enough. Opinions are very welcome.

 
I know they make connecters for this type of thing, but IDR where to get them.

With the RCA's just run a normal set front to back and a small 1m from the amps to outside of rack and connect with barrel connecters.

 
yeah that would work. it just more resistance but it works . your better of getting banana plugs and for the amp get the HD connectors that the forklifts use
interesting.. so you think the banana plugs would be better for the speakers. why exactly.

How much additional resistance would the ac plugs actually add on the power end?

Im not familiar with the HD connectors you mentioned. Could you point me to a link?

 
Make sure the amp rating on the connectors is above that of the amp rating on the amplifier itself.

Or welcome to Fire Investigations 101.
when the connectors are rated at 20a would that mean 20a per blade or for all 3 blades combined? each of my 3 amps are fused at 60a so if this were the case, i would need one receptacle for each power run for each amplifier.

and here is a very stupid question.. 20a at 125v IS the same as 20a at 12v correct?

 
Yes you would get the same kind of release, yet it is a little tighter and able to handle more current then the plug you are listing.

That would also be 20a for all three prongs on the plug.

 
That should work out fine. When I used to DJ years ago, I had a rack setup with Neutrik connections to make setup and tear down ultra quick. I was thinking about going that route in my Civic if I decide to make my amp rack removable. Right now, I only have plans to make the subwoofer removable.

Oh yeah, if you want to know more about Neutrik connectors, just look at Partsexpress.com because they have plenty of them! I used these for my signal and wire without any issues from 1999-2002 when I had a mobile DJ rig.

 
That should work out fine. When I used to DJ years ago, I had a rack setup with Neutrik connections to make setup and tear down ultra quick. I was thinking about going that route in my Civic if I decide to make my amp rack removable. Right now, I only have plans to make the subwoofer removable.
Oh yeah, if you want to know more about Neutrik connectors, just look at Partsexpress.com because they have plenty of them! I used these for my signal and wire without any issues from 1999-2002 when I had a mobile DJ rig.
the highest rating on the powercon adapters are 20a. how much current were you using in your previous setup?

 
the highest rating on the powercon adapters are 20a. how much current were you using in your previous setup?
I used those mostly for signal since I had a modular amp rack and speaker wire for my high end. Anything requiring power I had custom extension cords for. It helps when your good friend is an electrical engineer and does 90% of the work for you:D

As for power, you could look into those 220v twist lock connectors. That should handle a few hundred amps over 20.

 
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funkyab

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