Another user looking for input between 6.5 component speakers

[davidhilldallas]

I currently have Polk Audio DBs for my car doors speakers. But they are getting pretty fried, I play them a bit loud for them to handle and last. So looking to upgrade to better quality and sounding speakers and will to pay more. Looking at 6.5 2 component sets

Current setup:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit

Rockford Fosgate P600X4 amp

Went to 2 local shops and listen to these sets

shop 1:

Hertz HSK hi-energy

Hybrid Audio Clarus

shop 2:

Hertz HSK hi-energy

Audison AVK6

My impressions - At both shops, I did think the Hertz had the better low-mid range sound and depth. But I like the sound of both the Hydrid Audio and Audison on the high end. I though both had a better, clearer, crisper sound quality to them versus the Hertz. Hertz to me sound kind of muddled. But both did suffer at the low end with not a lot of bass sound versus the Hertz.

So one question, if I went with Hydrid Audio and Audison, would I be able to get a better low-mid via the use of the head unit or amp tweaks/setup? Cause I do like the mid-low end bass sound and would hate to have to give that up.

And any opinions on the Hydrid Audio and Audison, I could compare those to together. anybody have owned both or could provide some input between the 2.

Or even going the other way, could the Hertz be tweak to get the better, cleaner high end that I here from the other 2.

And last buy not least, as mentioned I have basically fried my polk audio DB because I do like the loud music, any input on the 3 handle sustained loud rock and roll..

Hope to get some good input from the board and thanks in advance...

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Don't judge Hertz speakers from a sound board. I thought the same thing but my buddy talked me into getting them and they are totally different on the mid range up. If you look at the freq graphs they compensate for in car environment.

You honestly can't go wrong with any of them. See if you can step up to the HSK XL though

 

[davidhilldallas]

Thanks. That is good input about the sound board the ships use. .

 

[fly_marlin]

I currently have Polk Audio DBs for my car doors speakers. But they are getting pretty fried, I play them a bit loud for them to handle and last. So looking to upgrade to better quality and sounding speakers and will to pay more. Looking at 6.5 2 component sets
Current setup:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit

Rockford Fosgate P600X4 amp

Went to 2 local shops and listen to these sets

shop 1:

Hertz HSK hi-energy

Hybrid Audio Clarus

shop 2:

Hertz HSK hi-energy

Audison AVK6

My impressions - At both shops, I did think the Hertz had the better low-mid range sound and depth. But I like the sound of both the Hydrid Audio and Audison on the high end. I though both had a better, clearer, crisper sound quality to them versus the Hertz. Hertz to me sound kind of muddled. But both did suffer at the low end with not a lot of bass sound versus the Hertz.

So one question, if I went with Hydrid Audio and Audison, would I be able to get a better low-mid via the use of the head unit or amp tweaks/setup? Cause I do like the mid-low end bass sound and would hate to have to give that up.

And any opinions on the Hydrid Audio and Audison, I could compare those to together. anybody have owned both or could provide some input between the 2.

Or even going the other way, could the Hertz be tweak to get the better, cleaner high end that I here from the other 2.

And last buy not least, as mentioned I have basically fried my polk audio DB because I do like the loud music, any input on the 3 handle sustained loud rock and roll..

Hope to get some good input from the board and thanks in advance...

If you're set on the speakers you can hear, go with the ones you thought had more clarity. You can do some things to improve midbass response like deadening the doors and I think having them in the car and out of the sound board will do that as well. If you thought some lacked clarity, they won't get any clearer.

What's your budget for these anyway? How much are the audisons going for btw?

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Get raw drivers. For $600ish (or whatever the shop is asking)... you could get into ScanSpeak territory and **** any of those sets.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Ear sex.

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/2-way-speaker-kits/scanspeak-rediscovery-loudspeaker-kit-pair/

Don't even need the stupid crosses.

 

[davidhilldallas]

If you're set on the speakers you can hear, go with the ones you thought had more clarity. You can do some things to improve midbass response like deadening the doors and I think having them in the car and out of the sound board will do that as well. If you thought some lacked clarity, they won't get any clearer.
What's your budget for these anyway? How much are the audisons going for btw?

All 3 are going for about the Same price 650 ish

 

[fly_marlin]

All 3 are going for about the Same price 650 ish

Are you opposed to going active? You can go Taylor's route and save, but you will need active capable equipment and some dedication to tune it.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Are you opposed to going active? You can go Taylor's route and save, but you will need active capable equipment and some dedication to tune it.

He has an 80prs

 

[davidhilldallas]

Actually not really sure what that means. . Go active or raw.. What I do know is I don't want to mess with trying to do the install in my car for panels myself. Our I could sane $$$ and buy any of these 3 cheaper online. . But I need someone to do the install, so I don't mind paying the full price to get it done right

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

Actually not really sure what that means. . Go active or raw.. What I do know is I don't want to mess with trying to do the install in my car for panels myself. Our I could sane $$$ and buy any of these 3 cheaper online. . But I need someone to do the install, so I don't mind paying the full price to get it done right

"Active" means using the electronic crossovers on the HU instead of the passive component crossovers that come with component sets. It's an expense you don't need to pay for. And, incidentally, will allow you to use time alignment and all the control that the 80prs offers.

"Raw" drivers are just buying the speakers individually. You can pick and choose the exact ones you want without paying the "component set" mark up or for crossovers you don't need. Component sets are made up of raw drivers. Not the other way around.

To do door installs correctly is going to cost you, but if you're spending north of $600 on a set... you need to do it right. Even amazing drivers will sound like ass in a poor install. Install is everything.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Actually not really sure what that means. . Go active or raw.. What I do know is I don't want to mess with trying to do the install in my car for panels myself. Our I could sane $$$ and buy any of these 3 cheaper online. . But I need someone to do the install, so I don't mind paying the full price to get it done right

Does this sound like that board? It's the XL setup but I've had both. Both have about the same signature, XL has a pretty good bit more output.



Take it from someone that has used them for 4 years. The board does not do it justice.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Does this sound like that board? It's the XL setup but I've had both. Both have about the same signature, XL has a pretty good bit more output.

Man that sounds pretty good of the You Tube..Can only imagine actually sitting in there/being present

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Man that sounds pretty good of the You Tube..Can only imagine actually sitting in there/being present

I still can't get this amp to sound like that. I'm happy with it but it's not a slash amp. I just didn't have the room to use them here.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I still can't get this amp to sound like that. I'm happy with it but it's not a slash amp. I just didn't have the room to use them here.

It takes time to find the right speakers and preping/staging to find the right sound you want/look for as well as the supply for them/amp.I spent alot of money,and time on speakers trying to find what I wanted in order to keep up with my 4-12s in the truck.Seemed like the CDT Brax. worked well for my application,CL 60s and finally a pair of loud tweets.I used the old Autotek Mean Machine 99 for quite a while and the Autotek BTX 7204...later found that the Autotek BTS 7300 I had sitting served justice along with the 7204