An alternative to cover inner door holes worth a try?

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

I was looking at materials to cover some inner factory holes on my rear doors. We all know the options, aluminum sheets, sheet metal, treated wood, MDF all of it either covered with a layer of butyl sound deadening, CCF or CLD. Fiberglass of course, the best option and some have even made removable pieces.

I came a across some composite roof shingles ( asphalt based) this stuff Is:

1. 1/8 thicj (what I found on my shed)

2. A bit flexible, not much but it makes it easier to install

3. Heavy and hard as thick wood, this stuff surprised me. I knocked on it and wholly crap like 1/2 inch MDF almost on just 1/8 thick piece.

4. Does not really smell (it can be covered with CCF or CLD)

5. Easy to cut

6. Seems like a good acoustical material even if not covered ( only thing is the little powder that comes off) that is why it must be covered.

7. it will not generate mold or degrade or wear out compared to other materials that will rust, create galvanic rust mixing metals, degrade with water and humidity. It is water proof.

8. Once covered with CLD, aluminum tape, CCF tape or glued, It can be screwed on or glued.

Negative issues

1. Needs to be covered on both sides.

2. No clue about the cost or if we need to buy more that we need to.

3. In hot temperatures it can get hot but since it is not exposed to the sun, it may not get soft enough to be an issue

4. I am trying to think of more negative things

Any thoughts or anyone tried or used this before or is wiling to give it try like I am.

Give me some thoughts good or bad.

Cheers!

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[Side Show 10+ year member]

any pics of this stuff?

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

any pics of this stuff?

No, sorry. It is just roof shingles bro, made of asphalt, sometimes they overlap a bit and have some seems but only on some spots.

 

[ChaseinBass]

Might work kinda messy with the git thats glued on top falls off pretty easy ? I remember old volkswagons used something like it for sound deading it was thicker and in sheets maybe look into it ?

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Might work kinda messy with the git thats glued on top falls off pretty easy ? I remember old volkswagons used something like it for sound deading it was thicker and in sheets maybe look into it ?

I know it can be messy if it is not covered with aluminum tape, insulation CCF tape or Dynamat or butyl type deadener. Once it is covered, it looks like we have a solid material that can be used even in large holes, maybe up to a square foot, thin and easy to work with.

It needs to be covered, as I tend to clean my gutters every 2 years and I find the little hard pieces I need to remove. Maybe this can be found in tiles without the rough material that comes off from it.

Any other good or bad thoughts? I'm am about to try it and wanted to get more feed back. Share any thoughts please.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

It has a lot of downsides for a job that isn't necessary if you hang CCF and MLV over the entire door between the metal and the door card. Yes, you get rust by mixing metals, but the way I did this job on my car has no downsides with the material once you put a bit of CLD deadener on the middle. I used roof flashing that costs just a few dollars at a home improvement store and I attached it with rope caulk as a gasket and small self-tapping screws. If the screws are a problem for someone it could probably be attached with an adhesive, but I wanted the patch to be removable.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

My plan is to cover it with duct tape, then maybe some dynamat or ccf.

I will have MLv on the door card and some ccf, note that my piece maybe 3/16 thick, its been in a shed for over 5 years and it is very hard.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

My plan is to cover it with duct tape, then maybe some dynamat or ccf.I will have MLv on the door card and some ccf, note that my piece maybe 3/16 thick, its been in a shed for over 5 years and it is very hard.

Get new MLV. Forget the shingles.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Get new MLV. Forget the shingles.

I have a lot of MLV, you think I can just use that covered with CCF or CLD instead? Screw it and seal it with caulk rope ?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I have a lot of MLV, you think I can just use that covered with CCF or CLD instead? Screw it and seal it with caulk rope ?

The CCF needs to go between the metal and the MLV, and that should work as your gasket. How much does it weigh per sq ft?

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

The CCF needs to go between the metal and the MLV, and that should work as your gasket. How much does it weigh per sq ft?

Okay my doors already had CLD about 80%, I had CLD covering a 14 by 6 inch inner hole, and open hole due to a plastic insert for the window, I cut it off, that support is not needed after checking the window down and inspecting it. Now I plan to cover the whole hole.

The MLV is non smelly 1/8 1lb/sqf, originally I planed to use this since it is a barrier easy to cut and it is thin compared to sheet metal. And as I mentioned, I just cut 2 sheets of MLV for the door cards, all cuts done for cables connectors, attachments, the biggest hole is like 2 by 2" it is for a bracket and screw for the card. Besides that only 2 more 1/2" holes and the speaker openings, cards snap tight, I only plan to put CCF in areas that need it since I am afraid it may not fit. I may glue the CCF to the MLV to make it easier or velcro it to the inner door area.

Thanks Trumpet, let me know what you think, the rears are not a big deal for me, before I had poor bass and response with the after market coax speakers, I hope it improves after fully sealing the whole hole. I also had some heavy moisture that got my speakers wet and it shows. The MLV I am doing is to improve the rear door's closing, road noise. Maybe the hole created an air pocket, still does after my tests without sealing the hole.

Thanks again

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Bump! Trumpet, perhaps you are confused about my intentions, I know MLV just blocks sound, road and low Frequency noises, I also know the CCF it is just a gasket but it can be used to cover a hard surface to reduce rattles and avoid sound waves to bounce inside the door, Plain MLV facing the inside area between the inner door and outer door can cause waves to bounce and resonances, i think k hope alive mentioned that, that is why wood or even sheet metal or acrylic can be wrapped with CCF if CLD is not available or want to keep it to control rattles in areas needed.

All I want is cover that hole, that is why I wanted to try the shingles, my other better alternative could be acrylic/lexan type and 3/16" birch wood (seems solid and once covered with CLD it will do th job. My options or material I have is the wood and roof shingles, the acrylic plastic it's enough to do all 4 doors and it's only $15 at lowes, compared to twice or more for aluminum or sheet metal

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

If you're concerned about sound bouncing around inside the door then perhaps you should try what keep_hope_alive does with bagged fiberglass insulation. It's a good idea that's been on my to-do list for months. Here's what I did with roof flashing and some CLD: article

This was one of the first of several steps I've done to dampen my doors. I now have 3 layers total between the door and the inner panel, using CCF, MLV, and 3M Thinsulate Acoustic. It's a whole lot of material, and my door panel doesn't fit right along the bottom edge, but I don't care on this car.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Great! thanks for sharing that Trumpet! The idea of the roof shingles is not bad, my problem was I did not have big enough pieces to use it. I went to one of the home improvement stores and got a 2'x3' 28 gauge galvanized sheet metal flashing for under $10.00 to seal those holes, cheaper than the optix acrylic material I mentioned, I also have some SS self taping screws from Harbor Freight I will use. I already had some of the caulk rope also that I will be using. Then move to the fronts and do the same thing all over. I was not too concerned about the waves bouncing, specially on the rears, I will leave the metal side facing the inside.

For the fronts, I may use the speaker tweeker kit from second skin to prevent the wave bouncing issue.

 

[Nutdawg651]

You use those shingles and youll have a tar smell youll never get rid of as soon as the car heats up