Amp suggestion - Class D mono - 700 - 800W @ 2ohms - around $150

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

Get the biggest you can in you're budget. Stay away from hifonics and soundstream.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So here's what I found.... (minus the JBL, BoominGrandpa gets that credit). Stock electrical is 150A alternator with Big 3 already done. Is there any reason I should choose any of the others over the JBL? At that price point it seems too good to pass up, however also appears it does not have a subsonic filter.
JBL GTX500 - $105. ($79.99 Refurbished from JBL)

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTX500-watt-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00YQ674D0

https://www.jbl.com/car-amplifiers/GTX+500.html?dwvar_GTX%20500_color=Black-USA-Refurbished

Hifonics BRX1516.1D - $170

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_94823_Hifonics-Brutus-BRX1516.1D.html

Precision Power P1000.1 - $150

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Precision-Power-P1000-1-1000W-Monoblock-Class-D-Amplifier-New/253683433151?epid=129739172&hash=item3b10b5febf:gdsAAOSwSw5bHqTM

NVX BDA7501 - $150

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_93307_NVX-BDA7501-750W-RMS-Monoblock-Amplifier.html

Kenwood KAC-9106D - $170

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76496_Kenwood-KAC-9106D.html

Pioneer GM-D9601 - $165

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pioneer-Gm-d9601-2-400W-Class-D-Mono-Amp/26972544

Was also maybe thinking:

2x SOUNDSTREAM PN1.650D - $85 each

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SOUNDSTREAM-PN1-650D-650-WATT-RMS-PICASSO-NANO-CLASS-D-MONOBLOCK-AMPLIFIER-MONO/182822091682?epid=2255229174&hash=item2a910bbba2:g:saYAAOSwmrlUwcOS

niether of those

apmi 2000 for 170 https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-APMI-2000-Design-Class-Amplifier/dp/B01AQB6KW4



Smashes every other amp out of the park with 1300 at 2 ohms. IDK why the fk you would even bother paying the same price for waaay less watts with all those other options. No its not too much power, after rise and everything it'll be enough power with headroom to leave the gain down low to keep the power output very clean yet very strong and efficient vs all these other amps you'll be running clipping/borderline clipping just to get the loudness you want out of it.

 

[Southern_Exposu]

niether of those apmi 2000 for 170 https://www.amazon.com/Audiopipe-APMI-2000-Design-Class-Amplifier/dp/B01AQB6KW4

Jeff,
Appreciate you taking the time to comment. I was really more concerned about stock charging. I've never been a high power guy and always stayed under 1000 watts at 2 ohms. So something like that is foreign territory. Also, All this will be powering is cheapie Walmart Blaupunkt 300RMS 10s I paid $18 for. I I don't really care if they go up in smoke but I don't want to do it on purpose LOL. My problem is I know enough here to be dangerous. I've had various system setups for 20 years but never became a stereo head. I always make sure I have some headroom but usually around 25%

But I get what you're saying. Why spend the same on so much less power? Especially if/when (most likely when) I get sick of these Blaupunkts. So with the Audiopipe, you're saying the gain can be set low enough to not exceed a 600w 2ohm load?

Thanks

Sent from my BND-L34 using Tapatalk

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Jeff,
Appreciate you taking the time to comment. I was really more concerned about stock charging. I've never been a high power guy and always stayed under 1000 watts at 2 ohms. So something like that is foreign territory. Also, All this will be powering is cheapie Walmart Blaupunkt 300RMS 10s I paid $18 for. I I don't really care if they go up in smoke but I don't want to do it on purpose LOL. My problem is I know enough here to be dangerous. I've had various system setups for 20 years but never became a stereo head. I always make sure I have some headroom but usually around 25%

But I get what you're saying. Why spend the same on so much less power? Especially if/when (most likely when) I get sick of these Blaupunkts. So with the Audiopipe, you're saying the gain can be set low enough to not exceed a 600w 2ohm load?

Thanks

Sent from my BND-L34 using Tapatalk

yes u can set power to pretty much what u want with a 50hz tone and a volt meter.. only things about ap amps is most peeps say they get hot and they are pretty inefficient (in the 60's at 2 ohm) he's also saying on ported box after rise even at 2 ohm full power subs would probably only "see" 800or so watts (depends on amp and box) but u should look hard at that p1000..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Jeff,
Appreciate you taking the time to comment. I was really more concerned about stock charging. I've never been a high power guy and always stayed under 1000 watts at 2 ohms. So something like that is foreign territory. Also, All this will be powering is cheapie Walmart Blaupunkt 300RMS 10s I paid $18 for. I I don't really care if they go up in smoke but I don't want to do it on purpose LOL. My problem is I know enough here to be dangerous. I've had various system setups for 20 years but never became a stereo head. I always make sure I have some headroom but usually around 25%

But I get what you're saying. Why spend the same on so much less power? Especially if/when (most likely when) I get sick of these Blaupunkts. So with the Audiopipe, you're saying the gain can be set low enough to not exceed a 600w 2ohm load?

Thanks

Sent from my BND-L34 using Tapatalk

You literally can run a 100000000000 watt amp on your stock setup if you just set the gains via voltage drop, just because you have that much doesn't mean you need to use all of it. However you will open up your future prospects of any system upgrade with that much power on tap and selling the amp will be a lot easier as well. hook up a multi-meter to your amp pos and negative, play some music, turn the amp up until your voltages start dropping from 13.8-14.4 to 12.6V and stop there or wherever your subs tap out or your own musical preferences are even before dropping down to 12.6v. Literally makes zero sense paying way more for way less power.

yes u can set power to pretty much what u want with a 50hz tone and a volt meter.. only things about ap amps is most peeps say they get hot and they are pretty inefficient (in the 60's at 2 ohm) he's also saying on ported box after rise even at 2 ohm full power subs would probably only "see" 800or so watts (depends on amp and box) but u should look hard at that p1000..

wrong and wrong, you've never owned one so STFU lol. The efficiency tanks only when the amp is maxed out however the AP has the same efficiency as most of all these other cheap budget amps so it really doesnt matter yes they are all cheap inefficient budget amps. What does matter with a lot of headroom the amp doesn't tank efficiency because its not at max capacity meaning it will be WAY more efficient than any other on the list because its barely lifting a finger to power his subs.

Only amps that are halfway decent on efficiency is the jbl and pioneer on the list the rest are just as bad as AP when it comes to efficiency.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

jeff is right about running bigger amp set lower is same or better than maxing amp out.. here's video of how to set gain for lower wattage with 50hz tone

 

[Southern_Exposu]

Thanks for everyone's input. You've given me a lot to think about. $170 seems like a no brainier for power that will grow with me. It will definitely be used conservatively.

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[PPI_GUY 10+ year member]

The GTX500 is the best deal on the list posted. Keep n mind it does not have a subsonic filter so if you get it you might want to stick with a sealed box design. Having said that, I really like JBL stuff. Made to be pretty much idiot-proof and durable. For $80...and if you don't need the subsonic filter, it's a no-brainer.