Amp selection for 2-12w6v2 JL audio subs

angler02

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St louis
I want to lay out the full story here so its understood the process Ive been through to get here. I started about a year ago when I purchased one used 12w6v2 to replace the basswedge i have with 2- 12w0v3. Upon receiving the new sub i hooked it up to my 500/1 jl amp and it blew. I got my money refunded and the sub sat for about a year in my garage until i decided to have it refoamed and reconed. Did that and then began actually learning how car audio works, by this I mean ohm loads amp adjustments and overall wiring.

So fast forward to now.. I hook up the newly refurbished 12w6v2 to my 500/1 amp. This is where i learned my first lesson. My thoughts were that one 12 with 600 rms would be louder than two at 300 rms, but at the time didnt realize that Im pushing the same wattage too. What I learned was that one 12 will never be as loud as two 12s can be at least with this setup. I purchase a second 12w6v2 and begin looking for an amp. I find a used x1200m kenwood that pushes 800 rms at 4 ohms and decide thats the ticket as most mono amps will only push 600 rms at 4 ohms unless youre spending 1k plus on an amp.

So I hook both subs up at 4 ohms to this monoblock amp and it just isnt performing nor sounding like 400 rms per sub. I hook up my old bass wedge at 2 ohms to the same amp and its powering it much better so now i dont think its an amp issue.

I understand that 2ohms will go lower than 4ohms but i also believed that at 400 rms per sub it would still be louder than my bass wedge at 2 ohms and it was not.

So I am now here to ask opinions on a goal forward and to see what i may be missing here. I can wire them at 1 ohm to this amp but its not reccomended from the seller as he says the amp tends to blow if ran at 1 ohm. I have looked into doing the new jd1000/1 which would be back at the 300 rms per sub or a used 750/1 jl amp.

Wiring wise right now i have the subs at 8 ohms and then connected at the amp to drop to 4 ohms. As a note the two 12w6v2 ran at 4ohms on my 500/1 was louder than my basswedge ran at 2ohms. Thats 170 watts a piece at 4ohms on those subs.
 

dragon.breath

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The kenwood is listed as being 1 ohm stable. I would wire the subs at 1 ohm and try it. That way you can see if more power helps the situation or if you have another problem.
 

Dafaseles

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I'm not trying to insinuate you don't know, but I notice you didn't mention it at all... how did you go about setting your gains and crossovers?
 
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angler02

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St louis
The kenwood is listed as being 1 ohm stable. I would wire the subs at 1 ohm and try it. That way you can see if more power helps the situation or if you have another problem.
This was a thought i had as well. I was concerned about the amp but at this point i may as well try it and see what happens. It doesnt tell me the wattage rms at 1ohm it just says stable down to 1 ohm which was why i didnt go that route just yet.
 
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angler02

CarAudio.com Newbie
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St louis
I'm not trying to insinuate you don't know, but I notice you didn't mention it at all... how did you go about setting your gains and crossovers?
Oh im here for help. I have a basic understanding and have done hours of reading going through forums watching videos etc.

JL reccommends that you set all amp levels to lowest setting and run a 50 hz tone and adjust up until you hear clipping then back it down. So i havent had it set on any one number. I know for sure i was at 150 200 hz. The other two settings it has available im not sure where they ate currently. I did adjust while playing to no avail. I even tried to run the voltage as jl reccomends at the power source on the amp.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
2,161
662
Pharr, Texas
As a note the two 12w6v2 ran at 4ohms on my 500/1 was louder than my basswedge ran at 2ohms.
That is because the Slash and HD series put out the same power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. So no need to pay mind to sub resistance as long as they are within those parameters. You did not mention what type of box you are using on each set. Are the boxes built to each sub's specifications?
 
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angler02

CarAudio.com Newbie
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St louis
That is because the Slash and HD series put out the same power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. So no need to pay mind to sub resistance as long as they are within those parameters. You did not mention what type of box you are using on each set. Are the boxes built to each sub's specifications?
Each 12w6v2 is in a sealed box to jl spec. 1.3 cubic ft.
 
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angler02

CarAudio.com Newbie
11
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St louis
That is because the Slash and HD series put out the same power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. So no need to pay mind to sub resistance as long as they are within those parameters. You did not mention what type of box you are using on each set. Are the boxes built to each sub's specifications?
The slash actually does 500 rms at 2ohms and 340 rms at 4 ohms.
That is because the Slash and HD series put out the same power from 1.5 to 4 Ohms. So no need to pay mind to sub resistance as long as they are within those parameters. You did not mention what type of box you are using on each set. Are the boxes built to each sub's specifications?
The slash actually puts out 500 rms at 2ohms and 340 rms at 4ohms. Per jl specs.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
2,161
662
Pharr, Texas
The slash actually puts out 500 rms at 2ohms and 340 rms at 4ohms. Per jl specs.
Are you referring to the JD/JX series? The Slash series has no prefix.
Screenshot_20230123-074610~2.png
Screenshot_20230123-075159~2.png

I think the goofy 3 Ohms subs were designed so that one would have to purchase these RIPS technology amps. When looking for an amp for my 12w7, I had to use either a [email protected] Ohm amp or the HD750/1. Since the sub is rated at 750 RMS, I opted for the HD amp since it was smaller and puts out 750 Watts at 3 Ohms (sub's impedance).
 
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angler02

CarAudio.com Newbie
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St louis
Are you referring to the JD/JX series? The Slash series has no prefix. View attachment 46675 View attachment 46676
I think the goofy 3 Ohms subs were designed so that one would have to purchase these RIPS technology amps. When looking for an amp for my 12w7, I had to use either a [email protected] Ohm amp or the HD750/1. Since the sub is rated at 750 RMS, I opted for the HD amp since it was smaller and puts out 750 Watts at 3 Ohms (sub's impedance).

I have the jx series im sorry for not specifying. Ive looked at the hd 750/1 because that would throw 375 watts to each sub at 4ohms. Or i guess it would all the way down to 1 ohm. So at this point my next step is to run these subs on the x1200m amp at 1ohm and see what that does. If im unhappy I plan to purchase a new amp. Either the 750/1 or they have a sale on the jd 1000/1.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
2,161
662
Pharr, Texas
Each 12w6v2
I have the 12w7 in a specified sealed box that sounds good, but then I got an 10w7 in a great deal. I opted to build ported using JL specs and hot diggity dog! The output is superior to the sealed 12w7 on the same power. I have been using this sub for a while and have no desire to swap it out. So I recommend ported even though box will be bigger.
 
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angler02

CarAudio.com Newbie
11
0
St louis
I have the 12w7 in a specified sealed box that sounds good, but then I got an 10w7 in a great deal. I opted to build ported using JL specs and hot diggity dog! The output is superior to the sealed 12w7 on the same power. I have been using this sub for a while and have no desire to swap it out. So I recommend ported even though box will be bigger.
Ive seen a lot of mixed reviews and opinions on going ported with this particular sub. Im not opposed but i have kids etc now so the smaller box in the trunk was the idea behind one sub for vs two. Sounds like i shoukd have gone with the w7 lol.
 

nauc

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