Amp(s) for 2 15" Fi Q's? Need Help

[x2o 10+ year member]

Any idea on how many amps your stock alt is?

 

[BringDaBoom 10+ year member]

Thanks for the quick replies guys.
As for electrical : 240 Amp Alt, solid electrical work, should be fine.

As for VC : Haven't bought the subs yet, so anything is possible but will most likely go with dual 1's although if i find a nice amp @ 2 ohms i will go dual 2.

I'm looking into the amps suggested above, thanks guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

IF you got that, get a single Kinetic HC1400 to run the whole car and call it day. Should more than suffice.

 

[SeanDub 10+ year member]

My stock alt is only like 110 amps, if that. I mean I don't run around blasting my system at full volume trying to set off alarms and show off, so it is fine.

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

Well yeah, nor do I Sean

as for BringDaBoom : Ok, so with a 240a Alt, 1 kinetic 1400 will do it for everything? Or should i have a seperate starter batt?

 

[BringDaBoom 10+ year member]

Well yeah, nor do I Sean
as for BringDaBoom : Ok, so with a 240a Alt, 1 kinetic 1400 will do it for everything? Or should i have a seperate starter batt?

According to kinetik, for every 1200 watts (total vehicle power, not just stereos. Electric seats, lights, etc), you need 90 amps on the Alternator. So 180 amps for 2400 watts.

Allow from 800 to 1200 watts to run the vehicle depending on the electrical requirements if you are replacing the under hood battery also. For example; a car with a stock 90 amp alternator can use up to 1200 watts to run the factory equipment already in the vehicle (90 amps x 13.6 volts = 1224 watts). Remember, there is a reason the factory put that size alternator in the vehicle in the first place and it was not so you could have extra power to run your aftermarket equipment! You must add power if you increase the demand. If you add a 1000 watt amp and a 200 watt 4 channel amplifier and allow 1200 watts to run the car then make sure the Kinetik model numbers add up to 2400. 1200+1000+200=2400. Assuming you are replacing the starting battery with a Kinetik Power Cell, install the size that best fits the space (for example an HC1800) and add the rest of the 2400 needed to the rear near the amplifier (an HC600). In this car a KHC1800 and a KHC600 add up to 2400 watts total and the car should have plenty of power assuming everything else is working properly

. -Kinetik website
Now that above example doesn't take into account upgrading the Alternator. If you just run the smallest aftermarket HO alternator out there (Which I think is in the 140-150 smp range), the above set-up is good without the additional HC600. Heck you could probably go down a size to the HC1400 and be good.

You on the other hand already have more than a sufficient alternator to handle 99% of what most people are going to put in their everyday car. It's good for 3260 watts (240 x 13.6 = 3260). The Kinetik HC1400 has 1500 amps of power. So it's like having two batteries in one (Most factory big batteries are 650-750 amps). But it's better than a battery because it operates like a capicitor in the sense that it charges in seconds, rather than minutes.

So now your electrical system can handle almost 5000W of power.

For my application, My car comes factory with 140 amp alternator. This was a pleasant surprise. I have Lincoln LS with electronic seats, and motorized this and that, etc. That stuff isn't being used all the time. All in all, the vechicle probably doesn't use more than 1200 W to power everything. If it does it's not much. But I have a 140 amp alternator (140 x 13.6 = 1904) I room to power almost 2000 watts of vehicle equipment.

Say I was using 1900 watts for the car (adding in all the little bells in whistles it may, but they are not in use constantly or enough to warrant), I'm going to add 800W total for my install going in. The factory battery is a 650 Amp battery. It runs the factory stuff. So adding the stereo, I just doubled my battery and I got an HC1500. That alone for me should suffice for my system. Again, I'm not going to running the system at full blast while every other thing in the car is on or operating.

Since you have a much bigger Alternator, the same power cell should work for you given your power level.

Sorry for being so long winded. Just wanted to explain everything as best I could.

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

According to kinetik, for every 1200 watts (total vehicle power, not just stereos. Electric seats, lights, etc), you need 90 amps on the Alternator. So 180 amps for 2400 watts.
. -Kinetik website

Now that above example doesn't take into account upgrading the Alternator. If you just run the smallest aftermarket HO alternator out there (Which I think is in the 140-150 smp range), the above set-up is good without the additional HC600. Heck you could probably go down a size to the HC1400 and be good.

You on the other hand already have more than a sufficient alternator to handle 99% of what most people are going to put in their everyday car. It's good for 3260 watts (240 x 13.6 = 3260). The Kinetik HC1400 has 1500 amps of power. So it's like having two batteries in one (Most factory big batteries are 650-750 amps). But it's better than a battery because it operates like a capicitor in the sense that it charges in seconds, rather than minutes.

So now your electrical system can handle almost 5000W of power.

For my application, My car comes factory with 140 amp alternator. This was a pleasant surprise. I have Lincoln LS with electronic seats, and motorized this and that, etc. That stuff isn't being used all the time. All in all, the vechicle probably doesn't use more than 1200 W to power everything. If it does it's not much. But I have a 140 amp alternator (140 x 13.6 = 1904) I room to power almost 2000 watts of vehicle equipment.

Say I was using 1900 watts for the car (adding in all the little bells in whistles it may, but they are not in use constantly or enough to warrant), I'm going to add 800W total for my install going in. The factory battery is a 650 Amp battery. It runs the factory stuff. So adding the stereo, I just doubled my battery and I got an HC1500. That alone for me should suffice for my system. Again, I'm not going to running the system at full blast while every other thing in the car is on or operating.

Since you have a much bigger Alternator, the same power cell should work for you given your power level.

Sorry for being so long winded. Just wanted to explain everything as best I could.

Wow, thanks a lot for that explanation. Trust me, not long winded at all, I'm glad you took the time to type it all out. Much appreciated, it really did help a lot. Ok, well good to know about that electrical stuff, now the question remains in which amp... haha //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Thanks again BringDaBoom, VERY helpful.

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

Hm, I know this topic is old but i was thinking what about these:

http://sonicelectronix.com/item_2713_--+-200+PRICE+BREAK-+--+MA+Audio+HK4000D.html

http://massiveaudio.com/home/index.php?content=php/product&id=29

Are these good? Basically i'm stuck in choosing between the 2 above, the SAZ-3000d, the JBL BPX2200, and the kicker zx2500, god, so many choices X_X

I've realized i will most likely order the subs as dual 2 since the majority of the amps i'm looking aren't rated @ 1 ohm

 

[Audio Master 10+ year member]

get the sundown 3000 its very nice but wait to get it as jacob is getting low and i need one asap

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

get the sundown 3000 its very nice but wait to get it as jacob is getting low and i need one asap

haha no need to worry i won't be purchasing for a few months, but I like to have everything planned out ahead of time so i can budget properly.