Amp overheating in spare tire well

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

add some fans on a relay like you said...even if it's circulating hot air, that's better then the stagnant hot air

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

It is a good amp, but any A/B at 1ohm /ch. is gonna get real hot, that I have seen. I like the JBL too, and yes, much, much more efficient at 1200 watts @ 4ohms or the 1500watts @2 ohms...The JBL is one of the cleanest Class D's I have seen at 4ohms rated output.

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

All I know is I've had his amp for over 5 years and it's never had a single over heating issue in the other car, than again, it was not covered up and the car had an HO alternator. But from my cars battery meter I'm not seeing a voltage drop with this system in the car, I think it's just the poor location. I was really hoping this would work because I'm liking this "having a trunk" thing.. haha.

Mount the amp under the rear deck behind the back seats and run longer speaker wire to the sub in the current location. Just tuck the longer speaker wires under the carpet for a clean install and open trunk still

 

[shpatb 10+ year member]

It is a good amp, but any A/B at 1ohm /ch. is gonna get real hot, that I have seen. I like the JBL too, and yes, much, much more efficient at 1200 watts @ 4ohms or the 1500watts @2 ohms...The JBL is one of the cleanest Class D's I have seen at 4ohms rated output.

I have the GT28 at 2 ohms, it's not 1 ohm stable, and is the JBL 14001 class D or AB because some websites have it listed as AB and others have it listed as D. I figured the JBL will be more efficent since I'm going to be running it at 1000 watts which is 500 less than it's max compared to the BA which is listed as 1250 RMS max... so a little more headroom. I hope it's a class D and I can keep the location I have picked out now.

 

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------

 

If nothing else I can quickly swap out the voice coil on the 555 and make it a 4 ohm woofer...

 

[shpatb 10+ year member]

Mount the amp under the rear deck behind the back seats and run longer speaker wire to the sub in the current location. Just tuck the longer speaker wires under the carpet for a clean install and open trunk still

That's a good idea too, I'd have to move all the onstar **** thats there right now to make room for it...

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

I have the GT28 at 2 ohms, it's not 1 ohm stable, and is the JBL 14001 class D or AB because some websites have it listed as AB and others have it listed as D. I figured the JBL will be more efficent since I'm going to be running it at 1000 watts which is 500 less than it's max compared to the BA which is listed as 1250 RMS max... so a little more headroom. I hope it's a class D and I can keep the location I have picked out now. 

---------- Post added at 11:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:30 AM ----------

 

 

 

If nothing else I can quickly swap out the voice coil on the 555 and make it a 4 ohm woofer...

I see you are right about the JBL, It does state Class A/b...I do apologize. But yes, If you want to run the G28 mono, I would do it at 4ohms bridged. you must understand that to create a bridged mono 2ohm load, The two channels will be operating at 1 ohms each, when combined make the 2ohm impedance.

Have you been running this amp at 2ohms mono for the last 5 yrs?

 

[xSPLoder 10+ year member]

That's a good idea too, I'd have to move all the onstar **** thats there right now to make room for it...

Even the back of the back seats too. Just make sure there is a little gap between the amp and seats

 

[shpatb 10+ year member]

Yeah, I had two of them in my cars both at 2 ohms with no issues at all, they were powering subs that were in a ported box and not in a sealed box if that makes a difference at all... I had it at 4 ohms mono for a bit but mostly just at 2 ohms mono.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

JBL website nor owner manual state the topology of the 14001...I assumed, like the sales sites that it was a class D monoblock?

Looking further into the stated manual specs, it does spec much like a Class D monoblock.

http://www.jbl.com/images/media/GTO_14001_OM_EN.pdf

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Id move it, or let it continue to cook,and loose it,Im sure you can find a spot other than there covered up getting cooked.Mount it on the side of the amp box with rubber spacers to help with vibration issues even,and put your spare tire back in for emergency use

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

dbl

 

[shpatb 10+ year member]

JBL website nor owner manual state the topology of the 14001...I assumed, like the sales sites that it was a class D monoblock?Looking further into the stated manual specs, it does spec much like a Class D monoblock.

http://www.jbl.com/images/media/GTO_14001_OM_EN.pdf

Awesome, hopefully it's more efficient.

Id move it, or let it continue to cook,and loose it,Im sure you can find a spot other than there covered up getting cooked.Mount it on the side of the amp box with rubber spacers to help with vibration issues even,and put your spare tire back in for emergency use

I would remove it, except my other amp and my line out converter and everything else is all in there nice and neat, I'm not having a problem with anything else getting hot in there just the BA amp...

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Awesome, hopefully it's more efficient.


I would remove it, except my other amp and my line out converter and everything else is all in there nice and neat, I'm not having a problem with anything else getting hot in there just the BA amp...

I would recommend looking for an amp that is fan induction then or do as stated before..make a plexy front that will be fanned in and out..be cheaper than buying another amp by far

 

[shpatb 10+ year member]

I would recommend looking for an amp that is fan induction then or do as stated before..make a plexy front that will be fanned in and out..be cheaper than buying another amp by far

The BA has fan induction... two fans to be exact already.

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

well it could be a combo of the fact that it ran well at 2ohms bridged because it was ported it was more efficient and now it's stuffed in a location with no air flow and your running sealed meaning your putting down more power to get the same sound level and with it be a/b class it's going to get hot when pushed at it's lowest load. my T600.2 was on sub duty for a while 2ohms bridged(1ohm per ch) and it had a run time of 30-45 min full tilt before going into protect/overheat.