Amp output going in and out

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jflash
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Wanted to continue my last thread but it was closed. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/520589-about-grounding-rcas.html#post7707209

Since last January I have been running my brothers amp with no problems. He recently bought a sub and needed his amp back. I put my kicker back in with the same results. The amp is hooked up with a PAC 4 channel loc. 2 channels run to my amp for the components in the door, the other 2 run to the kicker. The component amp never goes out.

I can get the sub amp to work if I have the volume on the radio turned way up and bass level at -1 or if its down, I can turn the bass up to +6 to get it to work. But if the volume is below 5-6 it never kicks on.

I also tried the line level input on the amp with the same results.

 
Wanted to continue my last thread but it was closed. http://www.caraudio.com/forums/wiring-electrical-installation-help/520589-about-grounding-rcas.html#post7707209
Since last January I have been running my brothers amp with no problems. He recently bought a sub and needed his amp back. I put my kicker back in with the same results. The amp is hooked up with a PAC 4 channel loc. 2 channels run to my amp for the components in the door, the other 2 run to the kicker. The component amp never goes out.

I can get the sub amp to work if I have the volume on the radio turned way up and bass level at -1 or if its down, I can turn the bass up to +6 to get it to work. But if the volume is below 5-6 it never kicks on.

I also tried the line level input on the amp with the same results.
I'm a lil confused.. Are you using the pac-4 for a remote trigger? The whole volume to bass+volume thing is odd too, huh? I've had problems in the past with not enuf consistant voltage (200mv) to "wake up" the amp and keep it from shutting off intermitently.. That may be the case, but the fact that ur volume, and bass level are having an effect seems strange.. I never saw ur original post, but it sounds to me like ur amp isn't getting enuf CONSISTANT voltage to stay on.. If ur system consists of 3 or more total amps I would suggest running ur remote turn on wire from ur head unit to a spdt relay and feed the amps from that. I don't know if we're on the same page or not, but that's a problem I've encountered in the past. Good luck bro.
 
I linked my origional post above. I am not using the loc for the remote lead. It's coming off the back of the stock head unit. It does go to my component amp first then to my sub amp. If it was my remote, wouldn't the green light go red or shut off? Ive never heard of it but I'll look into that spdt relay. I was going to replace the loc but maybe I'll try that first.

Edit: I looked up that relay. Isn't it to switch one hot between two sources but not at the same time?

 
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I linked my origional post above. I am not using the loc for the remote lead. It's coming off the back of the stock head unit. It does go to my component amp first then to my sub amp. If it was my remote, wouldn't the green light go red or shut off? Ive never heard of it but I'll look into that spdt relay. I was going to replace the loc but maybe I'll try that first.
Edit: I looked up that relay. Isn't it to switch one hot between two sources but not at the same time?
Negative..Spdt relays are great for turning ur low voltage output remote from ur head unit and distributing that for multi turn ons.. If you have 3 devices or more connected to ur H.U. remote you should DEFINATELY use a relay. If you dont, you risk burning out the remote out from the h.u., and it SUUUXXX when that happens.. You can daisy chain a single run from the relay OR home run and solder. I run mine to a 3 toggle patch panel on my dash so I can shut off the amps individually for testing, and tuning etc..
 
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jflash

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