Amp No output after blown fuse

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

Equipment:

I have a boston acoustics gta 1000m and a morel ultimo sc 10" 2 ohm. Knukonceptz 4awg wire from the battery with an in-line 150A ANL fuse, 4awg ground.

Situation:

Hooked it all up, but the Knukonceptz kit I purchased came with a 80A AGU fuse which blew after 2 minutes of playing so I went to my local audio shop and purchased a 150A ANL fuse and hooked it all up together. I turned all the knobs down and it played for a few minutes and cut out again, but this time I checked all the fuses and they are all intact. The power led was blue for the first half hour of me fiddling with knobs. Took it all apart and rewired everything and when I turned it on again the power led was red, which indicates some sort of power protection mode with all the gains turned down.

Im not trying to win any comps, just for a little bump. Any help to get my system going would be appreciated.

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[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Grab a digital multimeter from walmart (like $5) and start checking your voltages. (at the amp terminals, fuse terminals, etc) That's where I would start, make sure you have 12V (or 14V with the vehicle running) at the amp and on the remote terminal. Also try disconnecting the speaker output leads (going to the sub) and powering up the amp.

The more information you give us the easier it will be for us to help you.

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

Grab a digital multimeter from walmart (like $5) and start checking your voltages. (at the amp terminals, fuse terminals, etc) That's where I would start, make sure you have 12V (or 14V with the vehicle running) at the amp and on the remote terminal. Also try disconnecting the speaker output leads (going to the sub) and powering up the amp.
The more information you give us the easier it will be for us to help you.

Ok, going to grab the multimeter in the morning and get readings, thanks for letting me know where to start

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

So my multimeter is reading between 30 and 31 at the amp terminals and the remote terminal is between 26 and 27 when the car is running

Grab a digital multimeter from walmart (like $5) and start checking your voltages. (at the amp terminals, fuse terminals, etc) That's where I would start, make sure you have 12V (or 14V with the vehicle running) at the amp and on the remote terminal. Also try disconnecting the speaker output leads (going to the sub) and powering up the amp.
The more information you give us the easier it will be for us to help you.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

So my multimeter is reading between 30 and 31 at the amp terminals and the remote terminal is between 26 and 27 when the car is running

...what did you have it set on? Should be on DC Volts and it should be around 12-14V

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

This is the multimeter I have, those initial measurements I took were with the Voltage ~ 200 @ about 1 oclock on the dial. Whenever I try to take measurements in DCV any settings or the DC10A it creates a short in my system and sparks fly from the terminal. Not sure if Im doing anything wrong though, but pretty certain thats not supposed to happen.

...what did you have it set on? Should be on DC Volts and it should be around 12-14V

 

[ampjunkielikeme 10+ year member]

on your dmm. put the red lead/plug in the other hole.

put your selector switch on the dmm to DCV - 20

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

Thank you very much.

The readout from the battery to the terminal is 14.06V and the remote is 12.95V

on your dmm. put the red lead/plug in the other hole.
put your selector switch on the dmm to DCV - 20

 

[jokers10 10+ year member]

Remove your speaker wires and turn your DMM to the 200 Ohm setting. See what the resistance is at the speaker terminal on your box.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Thank you very much.
The readout from the battery to the terminal is 14.06V and the remote is 12.95V

Those are good then, I would suggest disconnecting the sub(s) and powering up the amp. Report back with the results. If it powers up fine then I would do like jokers10 suggested and check the resistance of the sub to make sure you're not presenting too low of a load to the amp.

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/1476/file18051.mp4

Here is a video of my DMM while running, all my knobs are turned all the way to the left which i believe sets everything to the minimum. Pretty steady @ .1

Those are good then, I would suggest disconnecting the sub(s) and powering up the amp. Report back with the results. If it powers up fine then I would do like jokers10 suggested and check the resistance of the sub to make sure you're not presenting too low of a load to the amp.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

You need to disconnect the sub from the amp when you check the resistance.

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

I did, the sub was in the garage, you can see the hollow green lip of the box where the sub would sit. Its only a1 sub setup.

You need to disconnect the sub from the amp when you check the resistance.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

lol, ok you misunderstood. You need to leave the sub in the box and measure what the resistance is of the sub itself...we were just trying to make sure you didn't wire it to a low impedance load unintentionally. But now that I look it seems your sub is a single voice coil sub meaning that would be impossible...(so forget that)

When you powered up the amp with the sub removed did it go into protect at all like before?

 

[Mechorganic 10+ year member]

Oh sorry, yea it is a single voice coil sub. No it did not, the light stayed blue the entire time.

lol, ok you misunderstood. You need to leave the sub in the box and measure what the resistance is of the sub itself...we were just trying to make sure you didn't wire it to a low impedance load unintentionally. But now that I look it seems your sub is a single voice coil sub meaning that would be impossible...(so forget that)
When you powered up the amp with the sub removed did it go into protect at all like before?