Amp for Crystal Microsound COMP X215

cheefrawker
10+ year member

Junior Member
I'm determined to make this sub bump more than my friend's 2 12" CVRs.

COMP X215

-15" Competition Grade Subwoofer

-Cast Aluminum Frame, Chrome Plated

-Dual Stacked 100 oz. Magnets

-1600 Watts RMS Power Handling @ 2 Ohms

-Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils

-Multi-layer Kevlar Cone

-Santoprene ® Surround

-Three Progressive Roll Spiders

I just need to know what would be the best amp for the job and if I'm going to need a capacitor.

 
What is your budget?

No, you will never need a capacitor because they are mainly useless and do not do what they claim.

In order to make this sub louder than your friend's, or just loud in general, it will take a good amp and a big ported box. I would tune to around 35Hz or so.

 
Not really any budget. I mean whatever it takes. I mainly lookin for a good 1600-2000 watt amp that'll push'em and not create crap loads of distortion. I was thinking about running one 600 watt Koiler Amp + a 1000 watt Memphis Amp BUT I would prefer one that would do the job by itself seein as how In the future I plan to run 2 Crytal 15" Comps.

Ru talking about all capacitors in general?

 
d*mn I looked up that orion amp. 2500 watts huh? That'll have it running at peak power. I hope to god that doesn't blow it. I just came back from the audio shop and the dude rocommended the JL Audio 1000/1 Amp and a capacitor. Thanks for that Orion Amp reference though that sh*t is sick.

 
d*mn I looked up that orion amp. 2500 watts huh? That'll have it running at peak power. I hope to god that doesn't blow it. I just came back from the audio shop and the dude rocommended the JL Audio 1000/1 Amp and a capacitor. Thanks for that Orion Amp reference though that sh*t is sick.
Actually, the Orion2500D is rated at 1700RMS at 2 ohms, which is what the sub is configured for. So it would be a good match.

 
thanx for all the help. a couple of things though.

1.What about the Power Acoustik A3000DB Amp?

2.If not a capacitator than what cuz the stock alternator won't handle it. Me and my friend have the same car (Honda Civic cept' his is hatchback) and he's barely running a 600 Watt Koiler Amp up to 2 12" Kicker CVR's and his lights dim everytime he hits bass.

 
thanx for all the help. a couple of things though.
1.What about the Power Acoustik A3000DB Amp?

2.If not a capacitator than what cuz the stock alternator won't handle it. Me and my friend have the same car (Honda Civic cept' his is hatchback) and he's barely running a 600 Watt Koiler Amp up to 2 12" Kicker CVR's and his lights dim everytime he hits bass.

I am using an A3000Db on my CMPx2 and it beats the S@#T out of it, but my woofer is the dual 2 ohm model so you may not have quite the performance I do. I would suggest an amp that does it's peak power at 2 ohms mono, that way you get the most from your equipment.

 
Actually the Orion 2500 watt amp runs at 1700 @ 2 Ohms while the Power Acoustik runs 1800@ 2 Ohms and the RMS is 1600 so it should work fine. Unless you think running it somewhere near peak power is better in which case the Kicker 05KX2500.1 is better beacause even it runs at 2500@ 2 Ohms. Won't it be better for SQ if I run it at the RMS.?

 
definately orion over power acoustic

Cheefrawker, please listen to the guy above. Comparing an orion 2500D to a power acoustik A3000Db is like comparing a Yugo and a Ferrari Enzo. The 2500D will do its rated wattage whereas you'd be lucky to half of the rated wattage from a A3000Db. The A3000Db is just a good bang for the buck amp.

 
What about running at Peak power vs. running at the RMS. Does it matter?
The amp or the woofer? When it comes to amplifiers you want to turn the level sensitivity (aka. the gain) up to match the signal coming from your head unit otherwise you'll be sending a clipped signal to your woofer and fry the piss out of the thing. However, in adjusting your level sensitivity you want to be careful and stay within the confines of the RMS rating on the subwoofer because some subs will fry to pieces with anything much more than their RMS wattage rating. You will need a digital multimeter to adjust the level sensitivity to the proper setting. I would highly suggest that you take time to read the following thread so you can protect your car audio investment. http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=63933

 
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cheefrawker

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