Amp blown?

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jbk
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I recently purchased a Fi SSD 10' D1 and audiopipe apsm-1300. I got it all hooked up to the stock head unit in my 2010 jeep patriot using a plug n play device.

The day after hooking it up, I was setting the gain using a 50Hz test tone and an analog multimeter. somehow while doing that, the fuse in the multimeter blew, so I just set the gain to the minimum until I could get a new fuse. Later that night I was listening to music while driving, and the amp turned off, which I later found out was from the fuse under the hood blowing (the amp doesn't have a fuse, so I put a 100A fuse under the hood). After getting a new fuse, when the car would go on the amp would go right into protect. Keep in mind the gain on the amp was set at the minimum.

I disconnected the sub to make sure that wasn't the issue, and it was not. From what I was told, the amp got fried from a clipped signal, but I don't understand how that could happen with the gain set so low. there is also a gain setting on the plug n play converter, but I didn't change that from the factory setting.

When I opened up the amp, there was no bad smell, nothing charred and no bulging caps. Is there any chance its not blown, and if it is what could be the problem?

sorry for the story, I just felt like its all necessary.

 
Heres a quick way to see if you have defective outputs in the amp. Open the bottom cover of the amp set your multimeter to ohms . You will see a power supply side and an output side to the amp The power supply side is closest to the power ground and remote connections. You want the output section . Place your red probe on leg 1 of the outputs and place your black meter probe on the middle leg then place black probe on leg 1 and red probe on leg 3 then place black probe on leg 2 and red probe on leg 3 of the output You should read nothing near 0 ohms if you do please post your results as followed

Legs1-2:

legs1-3:

legs:2-3

 
D1? So how was it wired, to .5 ohm or 2?
Guess I should have mentioned that also... The guy I bought it from said the sub is D1, but the guy who installed it said it was D2. So, it was wired to 1ohm assuming it is in fact a D2 sub.

and Mike, thank you and I'll report back with the results.

 
Actually.. is it necessary? Right after it happened I took the speaker output out and it still went into protect.

And there are 4 legs on the output side, and they are all about .5ohm with eachother.

 
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jbk

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