Am I about to screw up?

Xc70_2002

Junior Member
I'm building my first system. It's going in a 2002 Volvo xc70 station wagon. I'm going for sq, I guess. I like loud and clean. I don't really know what I'm doing, but I've got a friend to help with the install. I've got the following items in my amazon cart(mostly-not the fi & box):

Morel hybrid 602

Audison SR-4

Performance Teknique amp kit w/4f cap

Kenwood kdc-x998

Sundown SCV-1500d

Fi Q15, going in a sealed box

So am I doing anything stupid here? Do I need that cap? Would an SAZ-1000 be enough sub amp? I'd be bridging the SR-4 for the Morels, and going passive here. I considered a bit 10, but don't wanna screw around with it that much. M budget was $2000, I think I'm at $3k. I would consider down grading some to get to $2k, but no paper cones, and no ported box.

Please tell me its fine to skip dynamatting the doors, unless its not.

It does appear putting a single din in this car is a pain, I think I'd like to try to keep the steering wheel controls, but may give them up if it gets too expensive or involved.

Thanks for your help, I'm really sorry to be such a noob, but out here in the middle of nowhere Vermont there's no local shop

 
Keep the 1500 a little overhead is nice.. instead of buying a cap get an extra battery. Go to Cherryman customs (also a vendor here) have him do a custom ported box.. you'll be 1000 times happier. If you want any mid bass from your doors matting ur doors are a must... you can buy some of it used to cut back on prices.

 
Also there's others budget friendly amps out there that will put out the same power as that sundown for much less. I can't say much on that tho bc I'm running the saz-1500...lol ( I love it too) what do u have for electrical?

 
As stated cap and amp kit are both sh it.. Get better and you will have a nice lil setup.

P.S you will need to dead the door does not have to be dyno as there are many cheaper and better SD options out there..

 
Thank you all so much. That's just what I was worried about -I did skip much thought on the wiring, and I do need a new battery, and had just decided against the agm for a longer warranty, but certainly don't have strong feelings either way. Adding a second battery, however, is probably more than I'm willing to do, the battery is in the back, no room for another there, but if i take out the spare tire, maybe, but then that makes room for a cleaner sub install...And yeah, I'm really looking for mid bass and will go ahead and deaden the doors. I know its the right thing to do, I was just wanting to be lazy.

Alright, I'm gonna go pull the trigger on the front stage and wait on the sub/amp. Do you recommend a wiring kit or just piecemeal it? And oh yeah, even though its amazon, I think most of it coming from Woofers etc. I gather its grey market stuff, which in itself doesn't bother me since the credit card will warranty the stuff for year, I just want genuine, not fake.

If I go with a ported box, I'd step down to a 12" and find a cheaper amp. I'm not convinced that I'd like that. I used to have a JLA 10? In a JLA ported box that served me well for years but I grew tired of the boominess and wanted to tighten that up.

The alternator is 140, and I'd replace it with a 175 if it ever needs replacing, but not before.

I'm looking at a 944 for the summer and that will get the bigger alt. That will also get the sub in the spare tire compartment treatment. That's where most of this system will end up, too. May try active on that build. That's hard to commit to with the dearth of that kind help around here.

 
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How about, skip the head unit, get a sound processor like a jbl ms8 so you can retain all your factory functions and is better than any head unit out there for audiophile tuning purposes. I know you are going for quality but Since you are buying components for the front stage, you can just get a decent 4 channel like a SSA Store - SoundQubed Q4-90 4 channel amplifier and save some money.

heck even this costs less than the sundown SCV http://www.soundqubed.com/Q1-2200D_p_31.html

 
I strongly recommend buying audio stuff off craigslist, for the same money you can get twice the product. So far I've bought a xs power 2700 $160, stinger spp 1200 $140 (new), alpine mrp-f450 $20 (yes $20 works like new the guy said his son left it when he moved out), saz 3500d v2 mint condition still under warranty for $670.. but if you want new thats cool too... in my opinion you are screwing up.

 
I strongly recommend buying audio stuff off craigslist, for the same money you can get twice the product. So far I've bought a xs power 2700 $160, stinger spp 1200 $140 (new), alpine mrp-f450 $20 (yes $20 works like new the guy said his son left it when he moved out), saz 3500d v2 mint condition still under warranty for $670.. but if you want new thats cool too... in my opinion you are screwing up.
CL is fine if that's your thing.. But he is screwing up??? What by buying NICE equipment then asking for info on said equipment??? FYI just to lay this out there I paid less for my 2 bc2000's then u did for your SAZ but mine was new.. Hell my 2 skars BNIB cost a few bucks more then your saz.. So who messed up?? I also have a sun5k so I have nothing against SD just showing you that CL is not the end of all things.

 
agreed with disturbed, you can just give people alternative options and ideas but when they already made solid choices like that, you cant really say they fked up(exept the cheap wiring and cap, but thats been addressed already). You can only say they fked up if they bought W7 woofers, prefab bandpass boxes with the lights, powered by boss 5000 watt amp with boss 100 farad capacitors and they think they will be the loudest and best sounding mofos on the block that will hit 150 db easily.

One thing I will say though, Sound treating the doors are very important to sound quality. Cant have aftermarkets without a good install.

 
Since this is your first system, etc.. i wouldnt be purchasing SQ type equipment. Waste of money.

There is far more than just buying stuff when it comes to SQ.

Stick with cheaper priced equipment so you can save up further down the road for tuning and better equipment when you know how and when to use it.

 
Agreed with few of these guys also, ditch el'cheapo wire and cap. And personal experience with deadening doors is a day and night difference. I'm running Focal polyglass comps and b4 deadener they were kind of average sound wise, then I took the time to deaden all doors and wow what a difference in sound and even output. Sound much better and louder, now I feel like I'm getting that high end sq sound and I'm also running an Arc 4050cxl if you can find one get it....it sounds phenomenal //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif good luck!

 
Removing the spare tire for audio equipment is mandatory.until you notice you have a flat.but that's what an auto club is for.I'd remove it for a cleaner install and a little less weight.

 
Excellent! So the Morels, Audison, and ms-8 are on the way. I had just assumed that the head unit was part of the problem and wasn't crazy about that Kenwood nor cutting up the dash...I came out almost even for the hu & faceplate for a used ms-8. I'll spend the extra time on deadening the doors.

As for CL, I have looked, but I'd have to spend more time than I have figuring out what is comparable to what - there is nothing named morel nor audison for sale in all of Vermont. The nearest Walmart is in the next state. And that's exactly where all the stereo stuff I've seen has come from. Its usually worth it to me to have it dropped off at my door versus the running around.

I'm so glad you recommended ms-8! That just feels right.

And yeah, who changes a tire on the side of the road anymore? My insurance has road side assistance, and the kids have the third seat back there, they'll love watching the sub under their feet.Maybe I'll get by without a sub in this car.

I'll post my progress. Maybe Ill start on the doors tomorrow.

 
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