Nothing. They're class D, so they sip power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Seriously, you don't need much of an electrical compared to a normal A/B pushing 2600 watts (about 55-60% efficient).
What type of vehicle is this? I would start out with 1 run of 0/1 going to a 2nd battery located near your amplifiers. You want a sealed AGM battery such as XS, Stinger, Deka, etc. From those you can either run 0/1, 2, or 4 gauge depending on what the terminals accept. My 1500-watt amps accept 4-gauge, so I use that for runs shorter than 10 feet.
For an alternator, you can get away with about 150-amps, but 200+ would be better .to be safe. A lot of people go overkill on this forum and its just a waste of money.
^^^ to this, dont forget about the big 3 in 1/0 as well as make sure you ground things properly grounded, run the amps back to the batts and then run a 1/0 ground form the battery to a solid piece of the frame, not a flimsy body pannel.
also, those amps seeing 80-90% efficiency would be a miracle. my mmats is only 86% at 4 ohms, and they are some of if not the most efficient on the market.