6x9 component advice?

09Cam

Junior Member
I have a 2009 Camry V6 SE with the JBL stereo option. The stereo is garbage despite the name on it. I am looking to install much of my old stereo but it was in a Lincoln and so the speakers won't work. The new car has 6x9s in the front doors and rear deck. There are separate tweeters on the front dash.

I'm going to have a pro install it because of the time factor, found a good one. He recommended Alpine Type R's for a middle quality, and either Diamond Audio HEX or Helix Precision for upper-end.

Any opinions on these?

I've read that round components are superior to the oblong ones, is this true? Would I be better off with a round woofer?

Existing parts:

HU: Kenwood Excelon KDC X589

Sp Amp: Infinity Reference 7541a (111x4)

Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch 2?

Sub amp: Rockford P8002

I mostly listen to rock and I like clear, clean sound, not interested in a bass machine.

Any input is appreciated, thanks!

 
Yes, round components are superior which is why you dont see many 6x9 component sets at all. Buy a 6.5/6.75 set and use the adapters that come in the box.
The good 6x9 component sets have the typical problems associated with an oval cone taken care of, which is the cone flexing in different ways. It will still not do anything for the differences in directivity depending on which orientation the woofer is located at, but a small midrange driver can take care of that problem.

I have several ways to put together custom component sets with CDT Audio speakers. The #1 problem with replacing a factory 6x9 in the door is mounting depth. I have to fit at least a 3.25" deep 6x9 in order to make this work. If that isn't possible with a spacer then you have to step down to a 6.7" or 6.5" woofer. This compromises the bass performance. With the 2" mid/tweeter and 3-way crossover I have the directivity problem is absent because the 6x9 stops playing around 1.5 kHz.

6x9 components do not have to be inferior to round speakers.

 
Yeah with my subs out, I can finally hear the lows from my components, and they are pretty impressive, considering the rear deck mounted speakers is about as much cancellation as you can get. The only seal is on the deck. I have some spare 6x9 boxes around and if my new box allows for room for them beneath the deck I'll box em up for even more midbass. But thats just to tide me over until I actually breakdown and do my fiberglass work so I can get my 7" midbass woofers in.

 
Thank you for the input.

I have decided to go with a round component and also to go with a higher end model, and to use some sound deadening in the front doors.

Any opinions on the Diamond HEX series or the Helix Precision series. Any opinions on these?

It seems like CDT is a favored brand... Any other recommendations for a higher end speaker set, say like a 4 out of 5 star rating? Something in the neighborhood of $400-$500/set?

 
I didnt say 6x9 components were bad at all, i said round > oval.... And there's really no debating it, its science.
The solution is to mate the 6x9 with a small midrange driver. Along with the proper crossover points and slopes this gets the 6x9 playing a limited bandwidth in which beaming isn't an issue. This is the same approach as with any other midbass driver. There's no debating this, it's science.

 
this debate again? I've listened to some 6x9 components next to some "round" components and I didn't hear a difference. no beaming etc. it's all in the install.
I was driving around today when suddenly I hear my rear speaker rattling! Knowing that it could be a blown speaker I immediately make a face like:

images.jpg


So I start taking my car apart and get down to the speakers, hrm everything looks ok here no tears, the cone is not rubbing, no burning, and I know I set my gains right and always run less than the rms they are rated for. So I turn the music on, and put my hand on the speaker bracket and hold it firm, no more rattle.

Thank God it's not a blown speaker.

Ok lets investigate the speaker and bracket for why it is rattling. thus I see this:

2013-05-29_19-15-19_484.jpg


Ok factory sealer for the bracket, no sealer between the speaker and the bracket, nothing a little trip to menards can't fix.

So I go to Menards, grab a roll of skinny closed cell weather stripping.

some time later in the parking lot:

2013-05-29_19-09-15_851.jpg


2013-05-29_19-09-44_122.jpg


Ok reinstalled, time for the cross my fingers test.

I turn on the stereo, and bam no more rattle, I'm satisfied, but wait let's test it on some good midbass music. Put in Sublime, crank it up to max volume (by max I mean max I set via gain). Holy f*king balIs midbass everywhere that wasn't there before. Before I was kinda dissapointed in my midbass and blamed it on the useless open air baffle mount with no enclosure, but all the sudden not only do I hear bass that wasn't there before, My seat is vibrating and pounding almost like having subs. I could not believe the world of difference this quick little fix did. Took the long way home and enjoyed some great tunes in blissful nirvana. A true testament to how the install even the smallest details can make the biggest audible difference.

So yeah lesson learned, will spend more time sealing things properly in the future, cancellation is a bish.

 
The solution is to mate the 6x9 with a small midrange driver. Along with the proper crossover points and slopes this gets the 6x9 playing a limited bandwidth in which beaming isn't an issue. This is the same approach as with any other midbass driver. There's no debating this, it's science.
wait, should I weather strip my 6x9's?

 
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09Cam

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