6 SA-10'S or 2 15" SP4's

[caseyarndt 10+ year member]

I think the motor force of sp4 negates the black of power.

Why do you say that? I guess I don't fully understand the relationship between motor force and power.

 

[supereikenator 10+ year member]

Go with two Havoc 15's, great subs'!

 

[TheFiverMan 10+ year member]

You only have enough power for 1 15" sp4. With that power id run the 6 10"s

 

[DropDownLowYota 10+ year member]

I was leaning towards the 6 10's or maybe grab another warden motor and recone both to 15's

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Why do I people think certain subs must have 6k to them to even be used thats not the case.

 

[jockhater2 10+ year member]

Why do I people think certain subs must have 6k to them to even be used thats not the case.

Exactly. The box can be made efficiently to work the subwoofer. You proved that to me.

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Exactly. The box can be made efficiently to work the subwoofer. You proved that to me.

Yep you got it

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

Why do you say that? I guess I don't fully understand the relationship between motor force and power.

Here it is in easy terms in a nutshell. All wattage does is move the speaker, it does that by creating an magnetic field around the voicecoil that the electricity flows through. The overall force that moves the speaker however, is made up of 2 fields that either repel (cone moves out) or attract (cone moves in). Speakers are powered by ac because the current moving each direction makes the field change directions. The second field, however is static, that field is created by the magnet on the back of the speaker. It's the total force of both that moves a speaker. So "motor force" is the strength of the field created by the permanent magnet. The second field around the coil gets stronger as more current flows through the coil. That's why speakers move further when you put more power on them, the force the coil is contributing gets stronger. So a strong motor, like on most expensive speakers, tends to be stronger than what's on most low end speakers, hence they tend to have more bass on a watt/watt basis.

Lastly, the closer you get to a speakers RMS, the closer you get to being capable of doing damage to the speaker thermally AND the closer you get to power compression, which most speakers have already entered by the time they hit their RMS power levels. That occurs when the coil gets hot, the impedence rises, which drops the current flowing through the coil, remember from above, the current is what adds force to the alternating magnetic field. So at that point, you can begin to see dimishing gains by adding more power, that's why when SPL competitors go from 3000 to 6000 watts they don't gain 3db's. Most of power gets converted to heat, the coil cant' dissipate that much heat, coil heats up, impedance jumps and your getting field strength barely increases, hence the .5db gain lol.

 

[-BenBen- 10+ year member]

[quote name='dbeez']I can tell you from first hand experience it was much lighter than my nsv2 18 and it was suppose to be a sp4 ask @\-BenBen\- ;[/QUOTE]

hell yea man, my mtx 9500 was heavier imo..its not heavy at all

 

[DropDownLowYota 10+ year member]

Here it is in easy terms in a nutshell. All wattage does is move the speaker, it does that by creating an magnetic field around the voicecoil that the electricity flows through. The overall force that moves the speaker however, is made up of 2 fields that either repel (cone moves out) or attract (cone moves in). Speakers are powered by ac because the current moving each direction makes the field change directions. The second field, however is static, that field is created by the magnet on the back of the speaker. It's the total force of both that moves a speaker. So "motor force" is the strength of the field created by the permanent magnet. The second field around the coil gets stronger as more current flows through the coil. That's why speakers move further when you put more power on them, the force the coil is contributing gets stronger. So a strong motor, like on most expensive speakers, tends to be stronger than what's on most low end speakers, hence they tend to have more bass on a watt/watt basis.
Lastly, the closer you get to a speakers RMS, the closer you get to being capable of doing damage to the speaker thermally AND the closer you get to power compression, which most speakers have already entered by the time they hit their RMS power levels. That occurs when the coil gets hot, the impedence rises, which drops the current flowing through the coil, remember from above, the current is what adds force to the alternating magnetic field. So at that point, you can begin to see dimishing gains by adding more power, that's why when SPL competitors go from 3000 to 6000 watts they don't gain 3db's. Most of power gets converted to heat, the coil cant' dissipate that much heat, coil heats up, impedance jumps and your getting field strength barely increases, hence the .5db gain lol.

So in this case am i looking to stay below a sub's rms to avoid compression and heating?

 

[-BenBen- 10+ year member]

In my opion, 15s should be cheaper if im correct, and less work to setup everything, but also you would need 2 3ks for the sp4s/ 3k will tickle them but will get loud still. the 10s would be closer in power but will cost more, sa rated at 600 rms each x 6 = 3600 watts for max rms, 2 sp4 = 6k..so i would get the sp4 15s and work on getting another amp also.you have room to gain if you want

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

So in this case am i looking to stay below a sub's rms to avoid compression and heating?

not necessarily. Main takeaway is to realize that even though speakers can often handle 1.5x their RMS values, it doesn't really mean they will get much louder by doing so. If you want a loud setup power should really be the last thing you look at. Especially if your already using a good amount of power relative to what the speaker can thermally take. If your not loud on a 3inch coil with 1500 watts, 2500isn't going to suddenly bring it to life. It's still going to **** and it's going to fail easier and not be much louder at all. Doubling power is 3db in a perfect world, that's not that much louder to the ear to begin with.

 

[DropDownLowYota 10+ year member]

not necessarily. Main takeaway is to realize that even though speakers can often handle 1.5x their RMS values, it doesn't really mean they will get much louder by doing so. If you want a loud setup power should really be the last thing you look at. Especially if your already using a good amount of power relative to what the speaker can thermally take. If your not loud on a 3inch coil with 1500 watts, 2500isn't going to suddenly bring it to life. It's still going to **** and it's going to fail easier and not be much louder at all. Doubling power is 3db in a perfect world, that's not that much louder to the ear to begin with.

So would u do the 10's or the 15's? Going for ground pounder

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

10s probably have a little more overall capacitty but your not planning on going over 3k so its a non issue. Also the box for the 15s would be much easier and that will save headaches. Plus your more into getting low and not numbers so I don't think the difference here will be huge. Do the 15s if it were me. Less of a hassle to se good subs to selll too when it comes time and theyll hold value. I'd you want get fancy but stay easy you could do 18s with a passive radiator setup. Could use cheaper but still very good subs to keep overall cost the same.. 2 mid line 18s sub overall effeciency and cone area will most def trump 2 sp4s on 1500d each especially down low

 

[DropDownLowYota 10+ year member]

10s probably have a little more overall capacitty but your not planning on going over 3k so its a non issue. Also the box for the 15s would be much easier and that will save headaches. Plus your more into getting low and not numbers so I don't think the difference here will be huge. Do the 15s if it were me. Less of a hassle to se good subs to selll too when it comes time and theyll hold value. I'd you want get fancy but stay easy you could do 18s with a passive radiator setup. Could use cheaper but still very good subs to keep overall cost the same.. 2 mid line 18s sub overall effeciency and cone area will most def trump 2 sp4s on 1500d each especially down low

Yeah so you'd rather do 2 15's over 6 10's?