400 back on tax return. What do?

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

I ran 2800 rms back in the day off a 80a alt, no b3 or extras batt's. I wouldn't say he has to do it. Would it hurt? No. But he doesn't have too for what he'd run.

 

[Xinspaly 10+ year member]

So say i have my car audio peeps do the big 3 while they install the amp.. do any electricians here know how hard it is to get a new power supply for an amp like that?

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

I ran 2800 rms back in the day off a 80a alt, no b3 or extras batt's. I wouldn't say he has to do it. Would it hurt? No. But he doesn't have too for what he'd run.

I don't know how you got away with that. Running 2100 watts on an 140 amp with no big 3 and optima yellowtop as my mian battery, i start to get light dimming

So say i have my car audio peeps do the big 3 while they install the amp.. do any electricians here know how hard it is to get a new power supply for an amp like that?

Why don't you just do it yourself?

 

[Xinspaly 10+ year member]

Lack of knowledge.. Lest i mess something up..plus i know the guy so he will do it for real cheap.. unless its really just not that hard for a COMPLETE noob to electrical installing

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Lack of knowledge.. Lest i mess something up..plus i know the guy so he will do it for real cheap.. unless its really just not that hard for a COMPLETE noob to electrical installing

Installing an amp is as simple as plugging in a few wires and turning a few dials. What makes it a ***** is running and hiding the wires to look nice.

Big 3 is as simple as seeing where a few wires connect, and adding a wire onto those connections.

 

[Xinspaly 10+ year member]

Just re-researched the big 3.. I can easily do that..

however, I feel like pulling out my headunit is even an issue. As far as im aware this is what I'd have to do to get the amp installed:

1. Rca's from HU to new amp.

2. Split the power wire from the sub amp into the sub amp and speaker amp

3. find a place to ground the speaker amp

4. Run wires from speaker amp to all four speakers.

5. HIDE EVERYTHING.

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

I don't know how you got away with that. Running 2100 watts on an 140 amp with no big 3 and optima yellowtop as my mian battery, i start to get light dimming


Why don't you just do it yourself?

It's cause back in the day we'd run capacitors bro.

Edit: It was actually 2400~rms. Not counting what the birthsheets said.

 

[Trillig]

No, you should gold plate all your speaker wires where they connect, no, wait, get $45/foot RCA interconnect cable...

Come on guys, he's only got $400 & change, help him get the biggest bang for his bucks where he will notice the improvement the most.

- He's already said he isn't all bass-headed and he's got bass now that he says hits hard, why waste $$ on upgrading an electrical system which is obviously working well enough to please him with enough bass where the high current is required.

The guys who said that you need power on your mids are right!

One thing you could consider is adding what I add to almost all my customers vehicles, mid-bass drivers in pods firing straight up from right in front of the seats on the floor just behind where your feet are. I use Focal 5", two of them per side, side by side which uses a little floor space (and isn't a pain for foot resting for most people.)

You can't believe the difference! You just can't really get the warmth of real mid-bass when you have drivers right at the 1/4 to 1/2 wave point, spaced apart and firing exactly out of phase toward each other from right door to left door causing cancellation, unless you angle them hard upwards, even then it's weak in comparison.

You don't need the rather expensive Focal 5", you can go to Parts Express, Madisound or other to find a good mid-bass driver to add which only cost about $40@. Then you WILL NEED POWER up front, makes so f'n much difference!

SO F'N MUCH DIFFERENCE!

I've used these with good results, just for the mid-bass octaves from ~75Hz-250Hz:

5" mid-bass - Make sure you cover them with grill cloth since they have an open gap. I use the 4 ohm when there's only one per side, or parallel a set of 8 ohm when there's two per side.

Maybe snag a decent MTX 1502 from ebay - or equivalent - or fix your Memphis for 125-$150, but I often see the N-channel V-Fet 1502 amps go for about $75. Get a pair of them, or a good 4-channel and you can power both the 3.5" and the mid-bass drivers.

I just found THIS.

And if you can fit, and live with, 6.5" on the floor - WOW!

- Otherwise, 6.5" in the doors & an amp for the front will most benefit your ears, especially for that amount of ca$h.

Have fun whatever you end up doing.

 

[Trillig]

No, you should gold plate all your speaker wires where they connect, no, wait, get $45/foot RCA interconnect cable...

Come on guys, he's only got $400 & change, help him get the biggest bang for his bucks where he will notice the improvement the most.

- He's already said he isn't all bass-headed and he's got bass now that he says hits hard, why waste $$ on upgrading an electrical system which is obviously working well enough to please him with enough bass where the high current is required.

The guys who said that you need power on your mids are right!

One thing you could consider is adding what I add to almost all my customers vehicles, mid-bass drivers in pods firing straight up from right in front of the seats on the floor just behind where your feet are. I use Focal 5", two of them per side, side by side which uses a little floor space (and isn't a pain for foot resting for most people.)

You can't believe the difference! You just can't really get the warmth of real mid-bass when you have drivers right at the 1/4 to 1/2 wave point, spaced apart and firing exactly out of phase toward each other from right door to left door causing cancellation, unless you angle them hard upwards, even then it's weak in comparison.

You don't need the rather expensive Focal 5", you can go to Parts Express, Madisound or other to find a good mid-bass driver to add which only cost about $40@. Then you WILL NEED POWER up front, makes so f'n much difference!

SO F'N MUCH IMPROVEMENT!

I've used these with good results, just for the mid-bass octaves from ~75Hz-250Hz: 5" mid-bass

Just snag a decent MTX 1502 from ebay - or equivalent - or fix your Memphis for 125-$150, but I often see the N-channel V-Fet 1502 amps go for about $75. Get a pair of them, or a good 4-channel and you can power both the 3.5" and the mid-bass drivers.

And if you can fit, and live with, 6.5" on the floor - WOW!

- Otherwise, 6.5" in the doors & an amp for the front will most benefit your ears, especially for that amount of ca$h.

Have fun whatever you end up doing.