If you are new to this, then I would suggest sticking with simplicity until you fully understand all the ins and outs of ohms and current flow.
Almost everything in car audio is based on 4 ohms. About all the speakers you will see are 4 ohms and a lot of subs are too. If you are trying to match a speaker to an amp, look to see what ohm load the speaker is(probably 4 ohms) and then see how much RMS or continuous power it can take. Then get an amp that puts out that RMS(continuous) power at the 4 ohms. That's pretty easy.
It works the same for 2 ohms too, but lots of times a speaker doesn't come already 2 ohms. It will either come with multiple voice coils that can be wired together parallel to get 2 ohms, or you would have to use two regular single voice coil speakers/subs that are 4 ohms each and then wire them parallel to get 2 ohms. Then if you do that, the amp's output at 2 ohms(say 100 watts) will be divided to each speaker equally(50 watts per speaker). One other thing is, I read above where someone said amps make more power at 2 ohms usually. Yes they do, and sometimes this is what you want or need, but also the distortion factor rises some at 2 ohms. On subs this may not matter much, but on interior speakers, it can make a difference.