2016 Hyundai Veloster sub & amp install


mobbdeep

Member
May 5, 2015
82
6
Tucson, AZ
Hello guys,

I am looking into putting my 2 12" RF P3's and Taramps MD1800 amp in my 2016 Hyundai Veloster I just bought or maybe even just 1 10". I did some research and most videos I watched, people are putting in converters or whatever because theirs has the Dimension sound system already in the car, which mine does. I also have a touchscreen navigation factory HU too. In my previous vehicle, the hookup was as simple as pulling the HU out, plugging in the RCA's, and running everything to the back of the car.

However, I don't think it's the same for this car. I'd like to use the factory door speakers and just run the subs and amp. Has anyone done an install in one of these cars or know if I need other stuff aside from standard sub/amp wiring?

Thanks!
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
553
109
United States
Hello guys,

I am looking into putting my 2 12" RF P3's and Taramps MD1800 amp in my 2016 Hyundai Veloster I just bought or maybe even just 1 10". I did some research and most videos I watched, people are putting in converters or whatever because theirs has the Dimension sound system already in the car, which mine does. I also have a touchscreen navigation factory HU too. In my previous vehicle, the hookup was as simple as pulling the HU out, plugging in the RCA's, and running everything to the back of the car.

However, I don't think it's the same for this car. I'd like to use the factory door speakers and just run the subs and amp. Has anyone done an install in one of these cars or know if I need other stuff aside from standard sub/amp wiring?

Thanks!
Factory head units almost never have RCA outputs in the back, so it's likely your last car had an aftermarket unit in it. When it comes to interfacing with a factory head unit there's a few choices to get the signal you need for your amp:

1. Replace the head unit, which on modern cars usually comes with the hassle of installing a dash conversion kit that gives you a standard radio slot you can use for the new one and a bunch of wires to maintain most functionality of the car (do research if you go this route, backup cameras often have issues working properly on other screens than the factory one).

2. Splice off of stock speaker terminals to feed high power signal to an LOC or deequalizer. If you're just using a sub you can probably get away with something like an LC2-i from audiocontrol. That's an active LOC, I would not recommend a passive although they're cheaper. Active LOCs work to reverse the bass hesitation that factory radios send to the speakers to avoid damaging them at high volumes.

3. Splice the speaker wire and run it to an amp capable of a high power input. This has the same downside as a passive LOC however, and will cause your bass to level out above a certain volume.

In terms of audio quality the list goes New HU > Equalizer with bass restore> Active LOC with bass restore > High power input amp & passive LOC.
 

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