2000 sunfire - cluster off when aftermarket radio is on

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lemonlime

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I just installed an aftermarket radio into my 2000 pontiac sunfire. I stripped the original cables and spliced them to the radio harness. I followed the radio instructions and this page: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx(I can't post urls apparently so i pasted below.) to connect them. I ran the red wire to the brown wire on the a/c harness. The only remaining wire is a blue with yellow stripe which is for the steering wheel buttons which I don't have.

I can turn the radio on fine and it works. I can also turn the car on fine as well. But when I turn the radio on the instrument cluster shuts off and "error" appears in the odometer. The car seems to work fine with the radio on except for that problem.

I did try an obd2 scan and it just froze when I had the radio on. As soon as I turned it off the live data resumed as before. Only errors are ones from before - 02 sensor and fan circuit.

I grounded the radio black cable to a bolt behind the radio bay. The other two black wires from the original cabling are what I assume to be grounds as well.

How do I get the instrument cluster to work with the radio on?

YES I KNOW I SHOULD HAVE JUST BOUGHT THE 15$ HARNESS -_- But here I am.

WIRING INFO I USED

2000 Pontiac Sunfire Stereo Wiring Information

Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange

Radio Ground Wire: Black

Radio Illumination Wire (+): Gray

Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink

Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan

Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray

Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green

Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green

Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown

Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow

Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue

Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

 
So, I'm thinking that maybe somehow because the fuse that controls the radio does control other stuff that maybe it's drawing too much power? Could I just put a fuse tap into another slot with higher amps like the cigarette lighter(or could I run a fuse tap from what is currently listed as empty in the engine fuse box?) and run a 12v line to that? I assume that lighter is always on so that would be ok for the 12v constant? The 12v switched is currently tapped into the mirror fuse although I've moved it around and it has no effect.

 
If you dont have onstar on the car there is a way to wire up your headunit without the interface harness however you will lose your warning chimes which is not a huge deal to most people. Shoot me a PM if you would like and I will help you try to get it going as is. The harness is the best option though but not a necessity.

 
Yeah you don't need a interface with this car. You 12v switch power should be yellow as well, there should be two yellows in that harness one for a speaker and Tue other for 12v switch. You shouldn't need to run another wire but if it fixes your problem, cool

 
Yeah you don't need a interface with this car. You 12v switch power should be yellow as well, there should be two yellows in that harness one for a speaker and Tue other for 12v switch. You shouldn't need to run another wire but if it fixes your problem, cool
interface IS required if you want door chime and rap shut off. Do not just go to the other yellow wire in the harness that is causing your problems at the moment. run a new acc (red) wire to the fuse panel and that will make it work. but no door chime.

 
So basically the problem was solved when I used all new wiring instead of factory wiring. I ran new wires from the fuse box and connected them directly to the stereo harness. I turned the key and the radio came on as well as the instrument cluster.

Now I guess the only minor problem is that the radio does automatically come on as the car starts...I ran the switched power from the hvac fuse(not sure what is connected to that so if anyone knows please let me know). I ran a constant power line from the mirror fuse(not sure about this one either). Does anyone have any suggestions on better fuses to tap? I'm not sure if any of these will actually provide constant power. I only have 10A taps since that's all that's available here.

 
this car does NOT have a switching power lead, you need to run one over from the fuse box on the left off the ignition switching lead. i have had this problem, my wife drives a 2000 sunfire.. its a **** nightmare the car was made as a bad joke.

 
Well a new problem cropped up. I didn't use an antenna adapter. I just kind of pushed it in since it was smaller and taped it up hoping it would stay in because I don't want to pay 18$ for the antenna adapter. If it was like 5$ or something reasonable then sure. It displays miswiring - check wiring then reset on the new radio. Well I tried to secure the antenna better then reset it and it's fine. Hopefully that doesn't keep happening or I may need to just buy the adapter or find another solution. It does technically reset every time I start the car so that problem solves itself but at the same time I can't retain any settings. :S

 
Well a new problem cropped up. I didn't use an antenna adapter. I just kind of pushed it in since it was smaller and taped it up hoping it would stay in because I don't want to pay 18$ for the antenna adapter. If it was like 5$ or something reasonable then sure. It displays miswiring - check wiring then reset on the new radio. Well I tried to secure the antenna better then reset it and it's fine. Hopefully that doesn't keep happening or I may need to just buy the adapter or find another solution. It does technically reset every time I start the car so that problem solves itself but at the same time I can't retain any settings. :S
typically that error means there is an issue with the speaker outputs from the deck. Its telling you to check that wiring. Double check to make sure all connections behind the deck are tight and insulated. then get a dmm and resistance check the speaker wires off the back of the deck (with deck unplugged) and see which one is grounding out. Its either shorting to ground or the speaker is shorting.

 
I did end up just getting the antenna adapter because it kept coming loose. Although I do still suspect the speakers are having issues. I was not sure about left front since it said to use the yellow cable, which happens to be a thicker gauge than all the other speaker wires...so I left it off and insulated. I don't think the rear ones even work. I'll have to get to checking those wires now...

 
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lemonlime

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