Sold 2) PPI A1200.2s

[eggster 10+ year member]

Item(s) for Sale:

PPI A1200.2 amps, pair in perfect working condition, includes all plugs and rare factory cooling system (has collant lines plumbed into both amps on both sides, rare factory option installed by PPI, no leaks helps amps run ice cold for continuous operation. Makes all the difference in the world.. Have the spacer to connect the amps as one.. Pretty neat. Will need a few extra parts to make it all work, can find them in a junk yard or auto parts store.. ***** oil cooler kit (heat exchanger and rubber lines) fluid reservoir (wiper fluid tank with 12 volt pump) these are parts that can be found in a junk yard for like 20 bucks, the bragging rights that go with this are awesome, not to mention playing music all day without shutting down for overheating (A/B amps get hot when you push them in a sub section, this will prevent that)

Item(s) Description/Condition:

A1200.2s original warranty stickers intact, internals are unmolested, outside I give an 8 out of 10, finish can be restored, graphics can be left alone they are all in good condition. Just tape them off and touch up the white, amps will look brand new,, no major scratches or chipped paint..

Price:

600 each plus shipping OBO..

Shipping and Miscellaneous Item Information:

Shipping flat 35 anywhere in the Conus, (maybe less will let you know)

Item Pictures:

(List pictures in this section, 1st picture should be your username/date if you have less than 10 positive feedbacks with the i-Trader system or less than 10 references that you have sold to in the past. (These must be listed in your signature, or a link provided to a feedback thread listing these references)).

I have a great Ebay Rep as well as good rep on Diyma .com Ebay is eggstersampsandstuff The 160+ feedback is 100% positive and is from top name car audio like these amps.. Nothing nickel and dime, no $2.00 trinkets, all big ticket sales to 100% satisfied customers... Here is a link to detailed pics, the amps look so much better up close, pics make them look terrible.. Anyway...Thanks for looking

Pictures by eggsterama - Photobucket

Click to read more...

 

[CL1CKCLACK 5,000+ posts]

need pics with username and date man, or else its just gonna get deleted again

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

I provided a link with the last thread, couldnt upload pics, is that what happened to it? I posted a link to mu photobucket account, there are like 30 pictures, including my name and date.. Maybe the HTNL blocks the link? I don't know how to upload pics.. PLease don't delete, I wlll get pics up... I will try the link again..

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

Here is the photobucket link with an asston of pics including date and username for here and Ebay Pictures by eggsterama - Photobucket

 

[CL1CKCLACK 5,000+ posts]

lets get a group photo of both of the amps and the username...

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

jesus....

i thought my arts were baller.

question. how does the cooling system work with the spacer? i couldnt figure that out for mine and ive been wanting to do that for my next big project

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

i wonder how hard it would be to find hollowed screws that would fit those holes on the amp and build a cooling system on my own around that connector....?

sorry for the thread hijack. free bump. i LLLLOOOVVEEE my arts. i can only image how insanely nice these would sound on a pair of IDmax's or similar SQL subs.

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

Here is the photobucket link with an asston of pics including date and username for here and Ebay Pictures by eggsterama - Photobucket

Not sure how those pics popped up here but I can't complain.. There is a link to click, will take you to my photobucket page, there is an asston of detailed pics there.. Someone asked how these would sound with IDmax.. Well the answer is awesome.. I had a pair of original ID8s, the old school ones, not the newer stuff.. I sold those to AAron wrx on DIYMA, he thanks me to this day, the IDs were flawless. Anyway, I tested those with an A600.2 for midbass, had them crossed over from 50HZ 24db slope to 500HZ 18 DB slope and they sounded amazing, took every bit of power that the A600 threw at them and not a hint of distress.. The sound was tight, snappy and detailed.. These A1200s I had powering my Mirage home stereo 8 ohm speakers (testbench) The a1200s and an Alpine CDA9853 actually sounded better on those Mirage M490s than my big dollar adcom setup for home theater (adcom gtp 830 preamp with an adcom GFA555 power amp for mains..)

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

jesus....

i thought my arts were baller.

question. how does the cooling system work with the spacer? i couldnt figure that out for mine and ive been wanting to do that for my next big project

Not sure but with a bit of fabricating it can be done, the back of the spacer is essentially hollow, it is nothing more than a cross section of the actual heatsink they make these amps from.. Picture slicing a piece of the amp, thats what the spacer is.. You would have to cut into the spacer to allow room for the fittings, then find a way to secure the spacer.. My guess is to figure out a way to secure the spacer to the same surface that you would mount the amps to.. EG, if the amps are going onto a board, then you would have to attach the spacer to the board rather than secure the two amps together.. Essentially, you would have the amps mounted side by side, then the modded spacer would be more like a cover concealing the connections and plumbing while giving the appearance that the amps are connected together with it.. That make sense?

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

BTW, I decided to sell my A600.2 as well, same condition as these (maybe a bit better) also perfect working with warranty intact.. I also have some old school Fosgate subs for the collector.. I have 4 of the (punch power) RFP1212s, dual 4 ohm VCs 400 watts rms each, xmax is 12MM, FS is 22HZ, sensitivity is 88DB .. All 4 are near perfect looking, 2 are missing part of the cork that covers the edge of the surround.. Suspensions are tight, no sag. Those speakers are a SQ enthusiasts dream, for SQ, they are among the best subs I've owned (and I have a pair of 12W7s)

Tomorrow I am picking up a mint 15" Kicker "Separates By Stillwater" 15" Kicker sub with the gold logo ... How many of those do you still see around? Super rare and in near mint condition..

Also, selling a PPI 2150M in black, near mint, PPI Sedona 460ix in white, near mint.. Warranty intact on all.. All my SQ amps are going.. I hate it but gotta do it..

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

I figured out how to use the spacer with the coolant system.. you would remove fittings from the ends of the amps where they will connect. Then you can press in barbed fittings used for plumbing (if you're lucky enough to find the right diameter for a super tight waterproof seal.) You remove the coolant fittings from the right side of one amp, the left side of the other, You will need to fit the spacer with 4 barbed fittings, 2 on each side, this will allow the spacer to be used as a pass through for the coolant.. You press the spacer onto the right side of 1 amp, then press the second amp onto the barbs on the right side of the spacer.. Once that is done, you have 1 long amp left to right with the spacer as the pass through. Youll need to secure the amps, the spacer will be held in with the barbs.. Now you also have an extra set of fittings for another ppi amp, (1 of each side) this works if you buy both amps and get the spacer Sound complicated but its very simple.. The main thing is to secure the amps so that is all stays together tight, if the amps separate, you will have a leak.. I am a genius...

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

ya thats how i have my amps and spacer right now. one amps screwed down on all 4 feet. spacer pressed snuggly in the middle, 2nd amp pressed against the spacer and drilled into place with just its exposed 2 mounting holes at the end screwed down on amp #2. so it would make sense to get some snug hollowed barbs to go in those screw holes to pass between the two amps.

i wish i could buy the 1200's and resell them to keep the fittings, but im am fairly poorz..

ill take 1 set of the cooling stuff should you want to seperate 1....just throwing it out there

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

ya thats how i have my amps and spacer right now. one amps screwed down on all 4 feet. spacer pressed snuggly in the middle, 2nd amp pressed against the spacer and drilled into place with just its exposed 2 mounting holes at the end screwed down on amp #2. so it would make sense to get some snug hollowed barbs to go in those screw holes to pass between the two amps.

i wish i could buy the 1200's and resell them to keep the fittings, but im am fairly poorz..

ill take 1 set of the cooling stuff should you want to seperate 1....just throwing it out there

LOL, I'll keep it in mind.. Can't beleive no ones showing interest.. I had another ad up that was generating a lot of interest, I guess it got taken down.. I am considering trades and the price is negotiable folks.. Looking for a serious 3 to 4 KW amp to power 2 or 3 12W7s or re mx12s.. How do the RE MX12s compare to JLs 12w7s? I know someone selling 8 of them cheap...

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

man..... id offer up my cyclops but the coils i have now dont match up with the a1200's....

 

[eggster 10+ year member]

Question, if I wanted to run a pair of these, with a pair of JLs 12W7s (1 per sub bridged) would a rewound alt and a batcap be enough to supply current/amperage for 25 HZ test tones? What about music all day? I'm not an SPL guy, but I like being able drop jaws with the lows from time to time..

I am going to run an all active 4 way setup, 3 way front stage and 2, maybe 3 12W7s.. I have a pair now, found a third to add to the mix, may scoop it up.. I know I'm better off finding a serious class d amp to power the subs, but something about A/B power has me thinking twice about selling these.. They sound great on subs but for mids and highs they are tough to beat... Plus I wanted to run all PPI ART which is why I held on to these (had 8 PPI Arts at one point, 4) A600.2s, 4) A404.2s, sold them all before I came across these..)

So far the most powerful amps I have owned were the Fosgate T30001BD and a pair of Mmats D3500.5s.. The Mmats were efficient, but the odd impedence of the JLs made them come up short.. The pair of 12W7s with the Fosgate was crazy, the pair of 15" L7s powered by the pair of Mmats D3500s (dual 2 ohm L7s in an 8 CF box tuned to 32HZ, 1 matts per sub) was crazy too.. Those setups were off my stock alternator, single optima gelcap, big 3 and a big cap (made in florida, forgot the name brand of the cap, I know it's snake oil but it stopped the dimming and it kept track of voltage, plus it was a massive distribution block, 2-0 gage ins, 8 4 gage outs )

I'm throwing all that out there as a reference, I threw the A1200s on the same setup (swapped out the fosgate for the pair of a1200s, 1 per sub. Threw in Bass Mekanik and I wasn't impressed, def wasn't getting enough current, the fosgate crushed the ppis in pure output.. As soon as I saw the voltage drop down to 11.2, I shut it down.. If it had enough current, would it have put out as much as the Fosgate? What kind of alt do I need? 2005 mustang GT.. Also, do the batcaps really work? I think I wil copy paste this and post it somewhere else, like as in a new thread outside of the classifieds.. This is what happens when u mix drugs and tech questions..Not even sure what it was that I was asking anymore...