2 or 4 ohms?

Audiman

Junior Member
Hey every one im pretty new to car audio and have a quik question i bought a pioneer champion pro mono class d amp 2400w max and im about to buy 2 sound qubed hds312 12inch subs its asking if i want 2 or 4 ohms ? I tried reading about it and dnt understand . Witch should i get for this sub . Thanks guy

 
Wow that is good info man thanks im going to return this amp then . So what size amp will i need for these subs and witch one could you recommend alpine. Or i could jus get a sound qubed one and recomendations are greatly appretiated i want decent quallity and want something not bad

 
Ok thats what i thought. Can some one tell me how to read the power output on the amps and that im not shure what amp i need to push my dubs good. I like soundqubed sa hifonics alpine can some one give me a good suggestion on witch amp i should get thats guys

 
That amp will not see 1200 watts @ 1 ohm with 60a worth of fuses. Those hds3s take 1200 w rms and much more on clean power. You may be able to power one sub in a larger enclosure.
Wow that is good info man thanks im going to return this amp then .
Unfortunately, that was terrible info.

The gm-d9601 is accurately rated and uses 3x40A fuses.

It is a good match for a pair of HDS312's with d4's.

Yes, they can handle more power, but at 1200w rms and the possibility of a 2nd amp for speakers you wouldn't want anything much more powerful w/o an alternator upgrade.

 
Unfortunately, that was terrible info.The gm-d9601 is accurately rated and uses 3x40A fuses.

It is a good match for a pair of HDS312's with d4's.

Yes, they can handle more power, but at 1200w rms and the possibility of a 2nd amp for speakers you wouldn't want anything much more powerful w/o an alternator upgrade.
I stand corrected, sonic has it listed as 30 x 2 fuses... looking at the actual amp spec sheet, n2 is correct.

 
For OP's sake...

We're talking about subs that need at least ~1000w rms to be worth buying. A (class D) mono is IMO clearly the best choice if for no other reason than efficiency (vs a/b multi-ch).

Also, at ~1000w they tend to be less expensive than a multi-ch.

Also, they tend to have processing specifically intended for subs. A muliti-ch will have a broad LPF and MAYBE an SSF.

Also - at ~1000w your choices for a multi-ch are going to be substantially limited, whereas ~1000w is probably about the sweet spot for class D mono's making the options abundant in any given price range.

So does it HAVE to be a mono? Not at all.

Is it going to be the best choice? For about any comparison? Yes.

 
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Audiman

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