I actually reasearched online about this amp thinking the exact same thing you are. The manual says 4 gauge, and theres actually only 4 gauge terminals on the amp. I might eventually end up going with 2 gauge and maybe getting a reducer in the future, but if Planet Audio says 4.....then i'm guessing that thats sufficient.hey, anyone else noticing its 4gauge power and ground, thats just starving the amp and causeing more resistance, i would def do 2 or even 0/1 gauge, and im in iowa, i wana hear these bad boys, lol
hearing goes down to 20hz anything lower CANT be heard. Raps powerband is between 30hz and up...I listen to rap.....all rap. I have tuned high before with 2 12" L7s and didnt get great frequency response much below that......40 hz tune. For some reason.......it seems to take more power from my electrical when the higher notes hit. 2000 watts should be plenty for these subs; they should also be much louder than they currently are. My 2 12" L7's on a 800 watt concept were kinda close to the output of these.
hearing goes down to 20hz anything lower CANT be heard. Raps powerband is between 30hz and up...
IF you've tuned to 40hz a 40 hz tune will play to about mid 30's before the speaker starts to unload... So if you were able to detect the difference in the music by say less than 10hz, your awsome dude //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I personally cant hear the difference.
No it takes LESS power @ 50 hz to reach xxx.xx db (lets stay with 140) than to reach 140db @ 20hz... Think about it why do you need MORE power for subs than for midrange or tweets??? the higher the freq the less power you need to make it loud... Why do people in spl contests tune high(ish)? cause its easier to get loud at 40 -50hz than to do it @ 20hz...
I'm with you on this one... are you sure thats there rms rating(2kwatts) or there MAX rating... 4 gauge is normally good for UNDER 2k watts... my hifoncis is rated @ 1600 watts and it has 4gauge power and ground... also my fuses are "2" 80 amp fuses (160 amps max current draw)im in desmoines area, and no its just standard to have 4ga input becasue most people break it off of bigger wire to many amps so the 4 ga isnt that long, and trust me, even pushing a true 1000 watts ur starving ur amp with 4 ga, upgrade, weres that chart that shows amps vs. wire gauge vs. length, anyone know, just to show that 4 ga isnt sufficient
Brand new battery.....1 week old. It's not a deep cycle, wish I had the funds for a yellow top optima but I dont. Alt is only 100 amps so thats a big factor.......still dont have the funds for a bigger one. I only have a 100 amp fuse on my 4 gauge because I cant find a bigger maxi fuse. The amp pulls 175 amps from the electrical.I'm with you on this one... are you sure thats there rms rating(2kwatts) or there MAX rating... 4 gauge is normally good for UNDER 2k watts... my hifoncis is rated @ 1600 watts and it has 4gauge power and ground... also my fuses are "2" 80 amp fuses (160 amps max current draw)
Also you have a serious voltage drop for some reason... Is your battery new? Is it the stock battery? Is it deep cycle? more info please //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
If he were truly sending his speakers anywhere near 2k watts at say 14v. Would a 100 amp fuse withstand that? Maybe this is just another case of me looking at #s too much //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif .I have a maxi fuse block with a 100 amp maxi fuse. Amp pulls 175 amps.....currently waiting for a bigger fuse block. Anyone know what im doing wrong?
The deep cycle would help ALOT... does'nt even have to be a "yellow top" when funds allow get the biggest cheapest deep cycle you can fit. ( I don't have a yellow top I have a blue top oribtal 3 years old noooo problems)Brand new battery.....1 week old. It's not a deep cycle, wish I had the funds for a yellow top optima but I dont.
not a big factor imo.. with 100 amp alternator you'd be fine, your first move should be the batteryAlt is only 100 amps so thats a big factor
That's more than what is rated for 4gauge wire look at the charts hereThe amp pulls 175 amps from the electrical.
yea 2250 MAX? not good, with the amount of amps your drawing your doing UNDER 2k watts .. those subs are probably getting UNDER 1k watts each //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gifAmp is actually rated 2250 watts MAX at 1 ohm......people bench em at; or a little over 2000 watts.
The deep cycle would help ALOT... does'nt even have to be a "yellow top" when funds allow get the biggest cheapest deep cycle you can fit. ( I don't have a yellow top I have a blue top oribtal 3 years old noooo problems)
not a big factor imo.. with 100 amp alternator you'd be fine, your first move should be the battery
That's more than what is rated for 4gauge wire look at the charts here
yea 2250 MAX? not good, with the amount of amps your drawing your doing UNDER 2k watts .. those subs are probably getting UNDER 1k watts each //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif
1) when funds allow upgrade your wire, (just go straight to 1/0 guage)
2) get a deep cycle,
3) tune higher
4) and MORE (usable) power...
nope aqueak12 actually bigger box, higher tunings, and smaller port area can all help lower impedance riseIf Im not mistaken, bigger box means more impedence rise. It is possible that your impedence rose through the roof?