1995 Dakar Yellow M3 Coupe SQ Install Build Log

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

1995 Dakar Yellow M3 Coupe SQ Install

Decided that since I'm driving a coupe 2 Coaxial HAT Imagine series 6.5" drivers will be a nice match for the cabin area. No rear fill, only 2 seats in the car anyway.

Going to be building a box that gives some room for a second ID10. Have a professional carpenter friend working on it. Pictures next week probably. Each sub will have approximately 0.7cuft. which is 0.1cuft larger than the approx "normal" size listed on the box. Large was 0.80cuft.

Doing a rear seat delete and placing the box between the front cabin and the rear strut brace. The space is somewhat trapezoidal so it will have a facia raised about 1" off the box with a border around 2-4" thick to disguise the parts where box doesn't exactly meet with edges of the pass through. Box edges will be packed with some sort of insulation to fill it in, carpet on both sides to make it look good later

Components

Front

$220 - HAT Imagine Coaxial in Kickpanels

Front Amp

0$ - Alpine 3555 Bridged to two channels

Had from previous installation

Sub

$159 - ID10D4V3



Sub Amp

$110 - Audiopipe APSM 1300

Sub Box

$65 - Materials - 3/4 Birch Ply

Carpeting

Glue



Wiring

$194 - KnuKonceptz

Big 3 in 1/0

Konfused Positive Terminal

Negative Terminal (from Parts Express)

Konfused Digital Power Distro Block

16 awg Karma SS for Front Coaxials

12 awg Karma SS for Sub

4 awg KLMX power for Amps

6m Krystal RCA's 4 channel

Misc connectors, terminals etc



The Whip

1995 BMW M3 Coupe Dakar Yellow - 90k Miles

Click to read more...

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

Phase One

Rear Seat Delete

Temporary Install of Coaxial RCA

Temporary Install of Kick Speaker Wire

Install Microphone for Head Unit

Find a Conduit for 1/0 Power Cable Upgrade

Clean Up Old Wiring and Remove Old Speakers

Fix Rear Deck Rattling Issue

1/0 Negative Terminal Upgrade

Rear Seat Delete

Pretty simple here. I'm putting the box in the pass through space in front of the bracer bar so need to remove the seats. Pins in the middle of the seat allow the seat backs to slide out. The seat bottom just pulled out. Sides also pulled off. Removed the seatbelts in the bucket.









This is actually the next day after I buttoned everything up. You can see the wires coming in from each side of the trunk. The wires were run through factory wire harnesses and I zipped them to the brace bar to keep them from slapping around this next week.



Temporary Install of Coaxial and Speaker Wires

Was going to put the KnuKonceptz Krystal RCA up the side, but decided that I am taking the seats out anyway for the 1/0 Power cable upgrade so I might as well use factory wire conduit under the seats. I wanted to get a basic idea of length so I laid the cables down the side and left plenty extra. The conduit runs underneath and is only accessible by taking the seat off. Removed the passenger under dash to get to center console and the door sill flashing... what a ***** that was to get off. Kick Panel also.

Removing door sill flashing



Coaxial and speaker run up left side between frame and carpet



This is the rear of the driver side. I ran the coaxial and speaker wire through the factory harness to the rear. All of this will get covered up nice.



This is the old RCA, but mine was run in the same fashion



Passenger side run the same way

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

Install Microphone for Head Unit

Head unit has built in Bluetooth and those things you wear on your ear make you look like a ******* tard plus probably give you cancer. Unit came with a microphone to mount into vehicle. Decided on the driver side A pillar. Ran the wire in between the dash and the pillar, not the hole pictured, but where the two come together. The run is probably temporary since I’m going to take the dash out to install the 1/0 and probably do a better job on the Coaxial RCA’s as well.



Find a Conduit for 1/0 Power Cable Upgrade

Found it. Apparently the main conduit that runs from front to back is under the seats on both side rails. The old speaker connections run through the driver side while the power cable was routed on the passenger side. Removal of seats and dash is definitely going to be necessary to get what I want accomplished. Should look great when everything is routed cleanly away down there.

Clean Up Old Wiring and Remove Old Speakers

Removed the older RCA’s, older speaker system, several wiring harnesses related to the speakers etc.





Everything pulled out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif



What’s wrong with this picture?



All of the older stereo stuff and wires I pulled out. Look @ the harness on the right, previous installer cut and pasted to wires into an insane arrangement to save himself some time running speaker wire to the front.



RadioShack?

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

Fix Rear Deck Rattling Issue

Mostly just exploring to see how I could fix a rattle back here. Looks like others fixed it by putting foam in the spaces between the ribs on the deck. Probably try to do the same thing.



1/0 Negative Terminal Upgrade

Got a 1/0 Terminal from partsexpress.com for like 5 bucks. Terminal seems to be of good quality, heavy duty metal and decent connections. Allen key holds the wire in there. Not sure how I like that, but if it becomes an issue I will just solder it in. This was my first solder ever. I have to do several for the 1/0 power cable upgrade so this was a good test. I installed it on the factory location until later. Today I picked up some metal screws for it so I can mount it properly onto the chassis.

I also cleaned up the rear tire area. Looks like a fire extinguisher leaked out in here or something, all this white stuff. Could have been acid from a previous battery as well, washed it with water and baking soda to neutralize anything left behind.

The old battery connection



Raw Materials



Gotta twist the end to get it in



MMMMmmmmmm Fire....



Finished Joint



Clean Up

Put everything back for the week. These wires are factory speaker and CD changer wires. Decided to roll them up and put them behind the seat since I cannot get at their entire length, they run down into the side rail conduit.

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

COMING SOON!

Phase Two

1/0 Power Upgrade

Permanent Coaxial and Speaker Wire Placement

HAT Imagine Speaker Install

Installation of Amp Power Board

Subwoofer Box Fitting and Tweaking

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

Saving For Phase 2 - 2

 

[MrFriskles 10+ year member]

Saving For Phase 2 - 3

 

[BlactimusCrime 10+ year member]

if you take too long and too many people post in here you wont be able to edit your reserved spaces up there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[09civic 5,000+ posts]

year 1995 ftw!

oh nice stuff btw