16volt experts come on in!

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

When you increase voltage you lose amperage... and vice versa. So people with high voltage are not to worried about amperage, as they have the voltage to push there setups. Where as normal 12 volt vehicles want AH to help cope with the low and loss of voltage. Thats why 16 volt batteries are usually not cca rated.

interesting info, thanks.

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

Same grounding, understand at that point it becomes a common ground point system, and the only thing different between the two terminals is voltage potential. Say, for example, if you have a 60V source to ground and a 160V source to the same ground, each one has their own respective voltage potential to ground, but if you, for example, connect a light bulb between the 60V and 160V terminals, it would only have a voltage potential of 100V, verses 160V or 60V. That is voltage potential difference.

As for common grounds, it just makes things simpler.

 

[Decible_Demon]

Same grounding, understand at that point it becomes a common ground point system, and the only thing different between the two terminals is voltage potential. Say, for example, if you have a 60V source to ground and a 160V source to the same ground, each one has their own respective voltage potential to ground, but if you, for example, connect a light bulb between the 60V and 160V terminals, it would only have a voltage potential of 100V, verses 160V or 60V. That is voltage potential difference.
As for common grounds, it just makes things simpler.

Doesnt physics just piss ya off sometimes! LOL

 

[terra 5,000+ posts]

Doesnt physics just piss ya off sometimes! LOL

Not really

 

[MakeshiftAudio 10+ year member]

I don't quite get it, but no. xD I

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

I would definately go with a dual alternator system. Use the 16v system to run your sub amps, and the 12v system to start your car, runs the cars electronics, and run your mids/highs amps.

In my van I have a single 16v Powermaster alternator. It runs into a Kinetik HC16v (a 3 post battery that takes 16v in and steps it down to 12v and has a post so you can run your car off that), which has the 12v post wired to the stock battery and the car itself. Then the 16v post on the Kinetik runs to the back, where it is sent to 16 Powermaster 16v batteries. They are bussbared, and grounded to the frame. Technically, the batteries under the car are grounded to the cage they are sitting in, but thats bolted to the frame, so its all the same. The batteries under the amprack are straight grounded to the frame rails and have a ground running to the bottom set of batteries as well.

It works... But when I get enough cash saved up down the road Im going to put my 12v Powermaster alt on as well and run 2 completely seperate electrical systems. That really is the best way to do it.

And btw, both my stock 12v battery and Kinetik HC16v have the grounds linked together, then grounded to the frame. Its just a ground, 12v/16v doesnt matter.

Heres pics. I know it looks ghetto as hell under the hood, but it has since been cleaned up and looks pretty nice. It was a real tight fit getting both batteries under the hood, but they are held in place. It works, so Im not complaining.

 

[Lakota 5,000+ posts]

From what i understand they use the same ground..........thats what confuses me.

Well, the ground is just 0v, so it's fine for them to share.

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

alright, that makes sense.

Gmonk, hows that 16v/12v Kinetik holding up?

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

It hasnt blown up yet, but the 12v system always has low voltage. People say I need more HC16vs to step it down more... But idk. I dont want to spend money on more batteries and be stuck with the same problem.

 

[18inchjeepin 10+ year member]

good info in here, go dual alts

grounding to the same point is fine, I had to make a common ground so that my 12v switch would turn on my amp that was running 16v because it wouldnt turn on otherwise

250a wont be much for 10k

voltage drop is just the same as in 12v, if it drops 2 volts it drops 2 volts, my batts rest over 17v, and drop to 15v, but that is still better than from 14v to 12v

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

he was asking if it was dangerous for the amps.

i think no because they are stil running over the recommended 10v cutoff

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

he was asking if it was dangerous for the amps.

i think no because they are stil running over the recommended 10v cutoff

 

[Canaan 10+ year member]

Running 7 Kinetik Hc16's in the van.

The Z2Hv is on the 16v side, vehicle's electrical on the 12v.

It is true that the 12v side on the Kinetik is weak though.

Even when charging 18.4v, the 12v side is under 13v.

Got a 300a Ohio Gen externally regulated alt and charge w/ a TurboStart 16V.

 

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

Running 7 Kinetik Hc16's in the van.The Z2Hv is on the 16v side, vehicle's electrical on the 12v.

It is true that the 12v side on the Kinetik is weak though.

Even when charging 18.4v, the 12v side is under 13v.

Got a 300a Ohio Gen externally regulated alt and charge w/ a TurboStart 16V.

So it isnt just me... Good. Now I know not to buy more of these.

 

[Supergumby5000 5,000+ posts]

he was asking if it was dangerous for the amps.
i think no because they are stil running over the recommended 10v cutoff

this is what i was asking

for example, dropping from 14v to 11 volts will destroy most amplifiers

if im running 16 volt and drop to 14 volts, i am going to guess i wont risk damaging the amplifier. What about batteries?

and to the comment about 250amps and 10k, should i go dual 250 amp alternators? I am getting very mixed reviews about this. Some people are saying a 250 amp alty at 16 volt will handle 10krms no problem, others highly disagree