16+ volt setups. How?

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

if it's externally regulated, you can bypass the computer.

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

Well based of the price of of a kinetik vs. a yellow top and the fact that the yellow top is a deep cycle i am going to use 4 yellow top g34/78 batteries. if i can find a way to mount a second alt then i will do that and set it to 15 volts. hopefully i won't have to worry about dropping below 14.

however, if i decide to just go with a single alt with an external regulator, could i just set it to 15 and would my cars electrical be ok? i image i'll be replacing light bulbs more often but would i experience any other problems? also, when it comes to high high output alts like 300 amps, are there cons to having low idle current? would i have to worry about it?

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

Honestly if you are worried about price I wouldn't even worry about converting to 16v, lol. The way I would do it and have is to get a bank of 16V batteries and just use a 16V charger, eliminates all dimming! Polo.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

A constant 15v isn't good for AGM type batteries.

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

So without being willing to spend almost 2000 on an electrical what is my best option? Should I just use the Yellow Tops and get the 300 amp Iraggi? Will I see any serious voltage drops with say, two Autotek MM4000.1D at 1.5 ohm each, 4 D34/78 Yellow Tops, 2/0 awg Big 3, and a 300 amp alt from Dom? I think of it like this. Meade runs 3 times this much power and has, IIRC, two 350 amp alts. I imagine that a single 300 would be good to keep me around 14 volts but I'm not an alt expert. I also worry about the idle voltage.

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

don't waste your time with the d34's. pick up some G31's or powermaster d3100's.

get the external regulator, you can adjust the voltage and turn it up for sound off's

I ran 18v from the alty and 4 G31 YT's, I would drop to about 13.8-9 on burps with 3 modded ZX2500.1's

 

[Incriminator 10+ year member]

There are a few ways to get a 16v electrical system without blowing up your car
1) Kinetik 16v battery with a 12v post, and an externally regulated alternator. With this, you will need some 16v batteries in back as well. Though personally I don't like 12v battery posts for a daily driver car.

2) Complete 16v setup with 16v batteries and alternator, using step-down modules. That way the amps see 16v while the car is regulated to only 14v or so.

3) Two separate electrical systems with 2 alternators. The stock 12v alternator for the vehicle, and a 16v alt for the amps. Run the stock 12v battery up front for the car, and run 16v batteries in the rear. Completely separate from each other.

4) A separate 16v battery bank. Quite a few of my teammates did this for some time, and it worked out fine for them. They just got a big bank of 16v (or 8v batteries wired in series) and ran the amplifier off just purely the batteries. With consistent playing they did need to be charged every couple of days, but this is the cheapest and simplest option.

Number 2 is without a doubt your best bet!

1 - The 3 post battery is not a good option and it will die it from over charging 2 cells.

2 - Best bet! All 16 volt system then run the Powermaster 993 Step down module

to charge your stock system!

3 - This will work fine, but comes with the headace of making brackets for 2 alts and then buying another alt.

4 - Gotta charge the batteries often another headace!

Like I said you can do all of them, but with number 2 you can drop a bolt on alt in and wire in the step down module in minutes! This is what I recommend with all my customers!

Nick

 

[CJL 10+ year member]

Is this how the PowerMaster Step Down Module works?

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

The three post dual voltage batteries would be the best way to go. The three posted batteries are charged with 19.2 volts and the 12V pos post is just a cell below, when the battery is fully charged you will see clsoe to 14.9V. This is the best, least expensive way to go, using step down modules are expensive and waste bits of power through additional heat this is why they are heatsinked. Get a 300a Amputator series from Iraggi, does 225A+ at idle, run an external regulator with the remote to boost the power to around 19.2-19.5 V. Now run the wire from the alt back to the small bank 3-4 bats (16v, 3 post) to the 16V side. Now take a single run of 0ga from the 12V side and run it up to your starting battery, this will feed your car supply and will let you jump another persons car if and when needed and you won't have an amperage limit. Dual voltage, single alt for daily is the way to go... Polo..

 

[CJL 10+ year member]

interesting...

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

Is this how the PowerMaster Step Down Module works?

I like this idea. Does Dom make 300 amp alts w/ external regulators? How much does the step down module cost? And what batteries to go with? I dont' like the idea of spending almost 500 a piece for the Kinetic 16V but if two of them would do the job then I guess that wouldn't be so bad. Not sure what two Autotek MM4000.1Ds draw so I dont' really know what kind of battery bank I need to be working with here.

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

Contact Dom for the alty and ScottieJ about the modules and batteries. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

http://thevbattery.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1

Get four or more of these, 300A Iraggi, External regulator and a few runs of 0ga. Step down regulators are nice BUT if you plan on running anything extra you will need more step downs, lol. There are 50A step downs but they are expensive,large and the biggest have a 50A max rating, meaning anythng you run on 12V will have to add up to less than that and if your component amp(s) run on 12V then forget it you already maxed the step down! With these batteries you run everything 12V off the 12V post and the big amps off the 16's. There is no limitation, only that of the batteries and they don't have transistors that will smoke when you over draw them. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Polo..

PS- you will need to know how to wire this all up...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

i didn't quite understand what you mean about the stepdown. you are saying that i would be drawing too much current for it?

 

[delvryboy 5,000+ posts]

He's talking, vehicle/ac/radio/heater...etc.

Contact Scottie, he can give you the low down on the modules.

If I were you, I would just pick up 4 G31's YT/2150/nsb90/PM D3100/etc. and a good solid alternator.

It really depends on what your goal is. In my van, I isolated the 16v's. When at show, I would run the van strictly off the 12v battery and dedicate the alty and 16v's for the system. After words, I would flip back to the 12v and alty for daily and the rear batteries would hold a charge fine for normal listening.