1500w or 1800w Amp to power dual 700w subs?

[planet audio 10+ year member]

I have 2 Rockford Fosgate Power T0D412 subs at 700 watts RMS.

I can get a JL RD1500/1 amp 1500w @ 1 ohm for $599.

Or

I can get a Kicker CX1800.1 amp 1800w @ 1 ohm for $399.

Which amp should I get? The kicker is $200 cheaper, but will the 400w over power ruin those subs?

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Taramps smart 3. Headroom is always a good thing to combat box rise.

That Kicker amp is only 2 ohm stable. Two D4s would wire to 1 ohm.

 

[planet audio 10+ year member]

The kicker is the 2019 model 46CXA18001 so it's 1 ohm stable.

MODEL

CXA1800.1

Power (watts/ch) 4 Ohm

900x1

Power (watts/ch) 2 Ohm

1800x1

Power (watts/ch) 1 Ohm

1800x1 +/-10%

I'm only looking at the JL and Kicker amp. So you would get the kicker over the JL, and it wouldn't hurt the subs? I assume gain control is the key here?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

You won't see anywhere near 1800 watts. Probably half that. Subwoofers will be completely fine as long as you set your gain correctly to not clip them to death.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The kicker is the 2019 model 46CXA18001 so it's 1 ohm stable.

MODEL

CXA1800.1

Power (watts/ch) 4 Ohm

900x1

Power (watts/ch) 2 Ohm

1800x1

Power (watts/ch) 1 Ohm

1800x1 +/-10%

I'm only looking at the JL and Kicker amp. So you would get the kicker over the JL, and it wouldn't hurt the subs? I assume gain control is the key here?

you might want to expand your horizons and knowledge before making statements on why you thnk kicker is better because its 1 ohm stable lmao. Taramps is half ohm stable and does 3000 watts from half ohm to 1 ohm to 2 ohms at 12.6 volts. But in the end its your money to burn.

 

[planet audio 10+ year member]

you might want to expand your horizons and knowledge before making statements on why you thnk kicker is better because its 1 ohm stable lmao. Taramps is half ohm stable and does 3000 watts from half ohm to 1 ohm to 2 ohms at 12.6 volts. But in the end its your money to burn.

Umm I never said kicker was better. I was just stating what the kicker website said. My main concern was if running 1800w to the 1400w subs would damage them?

I already bought the JL 1500/1 but I can take it back. What about the Taramp DSP 1600 1 OHM? That's only 200w above the subs rated power.

 

[JakeW]

After box rise you won’t be seeing 1800. Step it up on power. Smart 3s are very hard to beat on power, size, and function. From
Experience, I absolutely love em

 

[planet audio 10+ year member]

So from doing some quick research, you guys would recommend the Taramp Smart 3 and run it with gain all the way down for 100% clean power? I currently have a 4 gauge OFC amp kit, will that be good for the taramps or should I go 0/1 gauge?

 

[JakeW]

So this is how I tuned my smart 3 and md5000 to my dc level 4. Gain at zero. Volume at 30 (3/4 for my ram). I believe it was a -10db tone @40hz? Smart 3 comes with a clip meter. Slowly turn the gain up, until it goes flashing yellow. Red light is a hard clip, you don’t want that. Then turn down just a scoshe, and you’re tuned. If anyone wants to add any steps I missed, please do

 

[JakeW]

The big 3 under the hood and 1/0 OFC no doubt. Keep that smart 3 at 1ohm minimum, I can’t say what it’ll do for heat and longevity at .5.

So from doing some quick research, you guys would recommend the Taramp Smart 3 and run it with gain all the way down for 100% clean power? I currently have a 4 gauge OFC amp kit, will that be good for the taramps or should I go 0/1 gauge?

 

[JakeW]

My system is no where near pro, but I also monitor voltage at my amp inputs as well. The smart 3 is nice, as when you fire it up and start the vehicle, it’s not 100%. After a few minutes it comes up to 100%. Let’s things warm up and get going, I’d assume. That’s explained in the manual or some video I watched.

 

[planet audio 10+ year member]

So if someone handed you both the JL RD1500/1 and the Taramps Smart 3 amps for free, would you still use the Taramps over the JL for my subs?

 

[JakeW]

Being that the smart 3 does over 3000 on a dyno? Yes. The JL is probably a nice piece and I’m about to look it up but I’d bet to say it’s larger. And even fan cooled? Looked it up- nice piece. But $650 for 1500w..... no sir.

 

[sicone22]

So if someone handed you both the JL RD1500/1 and the Taramps Smart 3 amps for free, would you still use the Taramps over the JL for my subs?

no i would take the JL however you need to return the JL, buy a alternator and a spool of 1/0, smart 3, agm battery, do the big 3 and put the smack down on those Ts. they will take over 700 and you are way too focused on that number. a smart 3k is not .5 stable, i would love to see the wave on the voltage rails at .5 on a smart 3k. not that it will see .5 but still. Minimum 1/0 into a smart 3 or RD or any 1k+.

i would wire the subs to a 4ohm load and run the smart 3, then you have room for growth. personally i would run 2 1/0 runs as well but at 4ohm load no need at all.

 

[sicone22]

Being that the smart 3 does over 3000 on a dyno? Yes. The JL is probably a nice piece and I’m about to look it up but I’d bet to say it’s larger. And even fan cooled? Looked it up- nice piece. But $650 for 1500w..... no sir.

It will do over 1500 and it will do it with extreme efficency to boot. There is absolutely a reason for the price tag. JLs are beautiful amps but none the less there is a time and place for such, this is not it.