15" xfl Trunk install opinions.

Too many variables, this statement is pretty far from the truth.
1 6in port is not enough for that sub, id run 2 6in. 3.25-4 cubes. But with the power you running id stay around 3.5 with running near double the rms. Those coils have their limits
1 6" port will work with a XFL. 2 6" is going to be unreasonably long.

 
I meant port firing towards the glass upwards.
You were going to cut through the back deck, correct?
Yes. Originally I wanted have the sub facing up and the port facing up. With the port extending out of the box and going through the rear deck so it's firing into the back window.

 
2 6" ports for 4 cubes is almost double the average 8 sq in per cubic ft. But as far as the power issue, I've been told the Cfl's can handle 1800w Rms all day. So why couldn't I just wire it to 1 ohm and set the gain lower on the amp? This would help prevent clipping as well.
trust me its avg for a sub like the xfl is 11-15 with a round port slot you could go 16 to 18. They are good for a clean 1500, ive ran about 5k to a pair before but you could not go hard on them for too long. you will def want the amp set cleanly

 
trust me its avg for a sub like the xfl is 11-15 with a round port slot you could go 16 to 18. They are good for a clean 1500, ive ran about 5k to a pair before but you could not go hard on them for too long. you will def want the amp set cleanly
No point going that big with port area unless you're chasing numbers.

 
Not true, ive had huge ports with a flat response within a few tenths. Big box, lottsa power, and tiny port dont make for a good build. Id run a sub with a more compliant suspension. XFLs are very stiff. Its like getting a mustang gt but not shifting out of 2nd gear

 
Well I just made a little discovery. Apparently even though my car doesnt come stock with drop down seats or a ski hole, it does come pre-fabricated to install.. It's really just a just a punch-out ordeal. Strange, but now I have a connection from the trunk to the cabin without using any tools..

Now I just need to know what's the best sub/port placement to make the most of it.









 
Not true, ive had huge ports with a flat response within a few tenths. Big box, lottsa power, and tiny port dont make for a good build. Id run a sub with a more compliant suspension. XFLs are very stiff. Its like getting a mustang gt but not shifting out of 2nd gear
wouldn't a smaller port be better than a larger port in a big box? If the port and box were big it would create a lack of resistance resistance for the sub and it would eventually bottom out? regardless, I feel 4.25 cu ft isn't on the large side anyways. Seems just right. And if I did want more port area like you say I'd feel more comfortable with 1 8" port rather than 2 6"... 6"sq in less, not much but better I feel like. Plus it would be more efficient than 2 ports as far as air flow....

But with the newly discovered ski hole, what would the best recommended box design be now as far as sub and port direction/placement....

 
wouldn't a smaller port be better than a larger port in a big box? If the port and box were big it would create a lack of resistance resistance for the sub and it would eventually bottom out? regardless, I feel 4.25 cu ft isn't on the large side anyways. Seems just right. And if I did want more port area like you say I'd feel more comfortable with 1 8" port rather than 2 6"... 6"sq in less, not much but better I feel like. Plus it would be more efficient than 2 ports as far as air flow....
But with the newly discovered ski hole, what would the best recommended box design be now as far as sub and port direction/placement....
To small a port and you end up with a sub that thinks its in a leaky sealed box. that suspension will keep the coil in check unless you play it hard under tuning. for that power 4.25 is a tad big wont have as much cone control.Which would be ok if your wanting to get that sub loud off less power and a more efficient enclosure. You could use a "8in" concrete form from lowes or home depot and fire it thru the ski hole into the cabin. sub up or to the rear.

 
To small a port and you end up with a sub that thinks its in a leaky sealed box. that suspension will keep the coil in check unless you play it hard under tuning. for that power 4.25 is a tad big wont have as much cone control.Which would be ok if your wanting to get that sub loud off less power and a more efficient enclosure. You could use a "8in" concrete form from lowes or home depot and fire it thru the ski hole into the cabin. sub up or to the rear.
Have you ran the xfl 15? If so please explain to me what your box was like.. cubes? port area? tuning?

I would imagine with my stock 120a alternator and nothing more than 2 batteries and the big 3 i'll be fine on electrical... But I seriously doubt that the BRX2400 will really do 2400w rms at 1 ohm. I bet it's more like 1800 @ 12v. . . Which is what i'll be running on most likely (havent checked my cars voltage)... But even if the amp does put out 2000rms @ 1ohm why can't I just set the gain down on the amp to reduce the power?

I guess my other option would be to just buy the D4 ohm xfl and wire it to 2 ohms, but I don't want to do that because I'd have to turn the gain up on the amp and I don't want to risk clipping the amp or sub...

 
How about this. ..

4.25 cubic ft box

8" aero port tuned to 34 hz

Sub wired to 1ohm

Amp gain set to 75-80%

Sub firing up and port firing foward into cabin (through ski hole)

?????????????

 
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