145db Examples

Makes sense, okay lol Thank you
What happens if you blow a fuse while competing? Disqualified?

Edit: Should I design the box with port facing into cab? facing ceiling? facing trunk door? facing side walls? Where should the sub be placed in consideration with the cab? More inside the cab? More towards the trunk door?
usually, you are done for that run. Luckily, they give you a couple runs per show.

Subs up, port back is a good combo to start out with.

...
"Burp" is 3 second tone. A 200A fuse is not going to protect that amp whatsoever, and I'm not sure what the rules allow, but more smaller fuses will be better for competing... for example, at auto-parts stores they sell a small fuse holder with a wire coming out of each side (for the fuses that go up under the dash of most cars... that style fuse). Get 10 of those and bundle all the wires together with solder, attatch one end to your power wire to the battery and the other end goes right into the amp, put a 5A fuse in each and bump up to 7.5A or 10A if you blow fuses often.

...
Cant do that in MECA so its worthless.

So for example, I could just have a fuse @ the battery with 300amp rating for the 0awg wire then another fuse holder @ the amplifier that can be swapped during competition to a 25amp rating. That is legit?
Thank you for elaborating on specifications of the classes.
Correct.

General SPL Rules

I suggest some reading through this. Try your best to stay in the amateur street or street classes.

 
So for example, I could just have a fuse @ the battery with 300amp rating for the 0awg wire then another fuse holder @ the amplifier that can be swapped during competition to a 25amp rating. That is legit?
Thank you for elaborating on specifications of the classes.
yes that is correct

 
dam guys , this is some good info. here.

for the op i wish you good luck and please post some pics when you start your build.

also ill be reading this thread for sure...

 

---------- Post added at 02:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:59 PM ----------

 

csu87.

what year was your jimmy ?

 
MECA is so hard to score well in some vehicles. I had two T1-15's on a 1500 watt rockford that would do mid 140's on the dash. I couldn't break into the 140's with that mic at the headrest. Granted I could have redesigned to make sure I got the scores up, but I was more into daily sound.

 
Thought it had a link to the rule book.
Here you go http://www.mecacaraudio.com/flyers/2014rulebook.pdf
I have been reviewing these rules and one thing is really throwing me off...

"OEM headliner or functional equivalent must be in vehicle and may be reupholstered, but not built with fiberglass or any other

hard rigid material. Headliners must be able to be removed, if necessary, to verify sound deadening on the roof of the vehicle."

Both sections about deadening in Street and Amateur class are misleading. Are we aloud to sound deaden the whole car underneath the panels/headliner?

 
MECA is so hard to score well in some vehicles. I had two T1-15's on a 1500 watt rockford that would do mid 140's on the dash. I couldn't break into the 140's with that mic at the headrest. Granted I could have redesigned to make sure I got the scores up, but I was more into daily sound.
it definitely takes practice. I had a different sub box configuration for MECA Comps compared to legal or outlaw metering.

I have been reviewing these rules and one thing is really throwing me off...
"OEM headliner or functional equivalent must be in vehicle and may be reupholstered, but not built with fiberglass or any other

hard rigid material. Headliners must be able to be removed, if necessary, to verify sound deadening on the roof of the vehicle."

Both sections about deadening in Street and Amateur class are misleading. Are we aloud to sound deaden the whole car underneath the panels/headliner?
yes you can

Amateur Street (only deaden the cargo area)

(1) No modifications outside the vehicle’s interior cargo area (ICA), with the intent to increase sound pressure level score. Only aftermarket butyl/asphalt type sound deadening materials may be used, 2 layers maximum in any area.

Street (Deaden anywhere)

(2) Only aftermarket butyl/asphalt type sound deadening materials may be used throughout the vehicle. Their application may not alter the placement of the headliner, carpet, or any panel in the passenger area of the vehicle.

 
I have been reviewing these rules and one thing is really throwing me off...
"OEM headliner or functional equivalent must be in vehicle and may be reupholstered, but not built with fiberglass or any other

hard rigid material. Headliners must be able to be removed, if necessary, to verify sound deadening on the roof of the vehicle."

Both sections about deadening in Street and Amateur class are misleading. Are we aloud to sound deaden the whole car underneath the

panels/headliner?
You can use butyl rubber or asphalt based (dynamat,roadkill,etc.) deadening ANYWHERE( not just the ICA ) a maximum of 2 layers but it cannot interfere with any of the factory panels or headliner in AS

In Street there is no longer a maximum amount of layers , you can use as much as u would like it just can't interfere with the panels or headliner in the passenger area ( in the ICA u can deaden away as long as the headliner is not altered or interfered with)

You can use spray foam ,duct tape , etc only in the ICA in Street but u can use it

 
Shake the Lake is the only show with in two hours of me ever, very nice. I head down to Erie all the time. I think you can get to 150 with that equipment also. My first ever built for the meter box I got to 149.3 at 37hz, only trunk area of a Maxima. I had two 15's and about 3k max with stock electrical. Don't get me wrong I killed my alternator in about a month (that's why electrical is first on my list now). I bought everything used and it cost me less than $600. I also built 4-6 different boxes, had several meter sessions, and countless hours researching being loud. Have to learn about frequencies and their affect on loudness and perceived loudness. Just read first then build a couple simple rectangle boxes with a adjustable port. My buddy @psychoacoustics makes amazing adjustable ports. The port will allow to easily change your tuning frequency to what is the loudest for your car. Help you get close anyway.

 
Even though this topic was more about setups to reach 145db, I do have another question regarding MECA competition //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

If I wanted to stay in amateur and/or street series, what is the regulations regarding the door speakers? I hate just listening to bass, so I planned on amplifying at least the front two aftermarket door speakers/tweeters.

Doe it bring my fuse count to two if I use a speaker amplifier? Am I able to unplug that amplifier for the sake of staying at fuse count one? Does that amplifier have to be in my trunk.....?

 
And I have much to learn too. Two 12"s @ 2000rms can produce 145db? There were people at this competition struggling to break 140db and had one/two 15"s or two 12"s.
I understand that box designs play a huge part in reaching high db, but I don't even know where to start to understand that stuff. That is why I am asking for build logs and things lmao //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif
I haven't metered mine since they got broken in, but on like day 3 I hit a 140 at 26 Hz running 2 SA-12s on 1200 watts. That was before they were broken in and before my Big 3. Could do probably a 142ish at 26 now and 145ish or a bit higher at around 35 Hz. Box design is key imo

 
Even though this topic was more about setups to reach 145db, I do have another question regarding MECA competition //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif
If I wanted to stay in amateur and/or street series, what is the regulations regarding the door speakers? I hate just listening to bass, so I planned on amplifying at least the front two aftermarket door speakers/tweeters.

Doe it bring my fuse count to two if I use a speaker amplifier? Am I able to unplug that amplifier for the sake of staying at fuse count one? Does that amplifier have to be in my trunk.....?
Only the fuses for the subwoofer amplifiers will be counted ,

In AS you can replace the factory speakers and amplify them , but I believe mods to the panels would be a no

In Street you can mod the factory panels for the purpose of full range speakers they just have to be covered, upholstered, etc.

This is a fairly common sense deal , for adding a second mid or tweeter it's not really a big deal as long as it finished with something , if you plan on doing a big build in the doors like 10 pro mids or co-axils per door then I would recommend emailing Steve Stern, or one of the R&E committee

All of the equipment must be inside your vehicle's ICA so yes the full range amplifier(s) has to be in the trunk as well

 
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