14 Dodge Dart Inline high output converter LC2i?

[Jacobfllr]

Just wondering if the LC2i is going to be enough? I'm going to be spending $800 on a decent setup and if it's going to sound like crap I mise well just go with something cheaper. I've read about people complaining about an automatic gain control/bass roll off from the stock headunit (uconnect 8.4" touch screen) which the LC2i is suppose to correct. I've also heard horror stories when they have to spend $400-$500 on a more advanced one and that's way out of my budget.

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[gstokes]

Just wondering if the LC2i is going to be enough? I've read about people complaining about an automatic gain control/bass roll off from the stock headunit (uconnect 8.4" touch screen) which the LC2i is suppose to correct.

If the head unit already supplies full-range left and right channels then YES, the LC2i is ideal.

If the outputs from the head unit require summing to create a full-range signal then NO, the LC6i or LC7i is required.

Full-range signal = 20 Hz- 20kHz

 

[Jacobfllr]

If the head unit already supplies full-range left and right channels then YES, the LC2i is ideal.If the outputs from the head unit require summing to create a full-range signal then NO, the LC6i or LC7i is required.

Full-range signal = 20 Hz- 20kHz

I don't believe it does another person with a dart was complaining about bass roll off with a cheap converter. So literally all I would need is the lc6i and it'll sound perfect?

 

[gstokes]

I don't believe it does another person with a dart was complaining about bass roll off with a cheap converter. So literally all I would need is the lc6i and it'll sound perfect?

No, the LC2i already has existing bass restoration circuitry, that cures the roll off..

If you had no Bass at all in the existing L/R channels then upgrade to LC6i, etc..

You have a full-range signal, it's just getting the bottom chopped off to keep sub-frequencies from damaging the speakers..

Let's say your head unit has 4 outputs, LF RF LR and RR, if the front channels only support 20Hz to 500Hz and the rear two channels support 500Hz to 20kHz then you have to sum the outputs to create full-range 20Hz to 20kHz signal for L/R channels.. Kapish ?

 

[Jacobfllr]

No, the LC2i already has existing bass restoration circuitry, that cures the roll off..If you had no Bass at all in the existing L/R channels then upgrade to LC6i, etc..

You have a full-range signal, it's just getting the bottom chopped off to protect the speakers..

I've read reviews of people saying it still sounded muddy and not like a normal head unit and they had to purchase the jbl ms-8.. Are you sure? I'm sorry I've asked so many times but I don't want to spend $800 on something that's going to sound like a $400 system.. I currently have 9 speakers being powered by a 562 watt amp and that's from the factory. It does have an 8" sub but it's not enough for me. I appreciate all of the help so far

 

[gstokes]

I've read reviews of people saying it still sounded muddy and not like a normal head unit and they had to purchase the jbl ms-8.. Are you sure? I'm sorry I've asked so many times but I don't want to spend $800 on something that's going to sound like a $400 system.. I currently have 9 speakers being powered by a 562 watt amp and that's from the factory. It does have an 8" sub but it's not enough for me. I appreciate all of the help so far

You just might need the LC6i, LC7i, etc.. It can't hurt anything..

I can't be sure without knowing frequency designation and channel layout so play it safe and use the LC6i or LC7i etc etc..