13w6v2 amp: RF P600.1bd vs Kicker ZX750.1

USCFAN
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Well I'm in the process of downsizing my system so i need to find a new sub amp.

Going by JL site the sub can handle 500-1000rms. Most retails sites have this listed at 500rms. So i plan to run it around 500rms.

Rockford Fosgate P600.1bd

about 700 rms @ 2ohms

+cheaper[$70]

+More efficient?? Can't find any info on the kicker amp efficiency. RF claims 75-80% for this model.

+my front stage amp is a RF punch150.

Kicker zx750.1

about 900 rms @ 2 ohms

+more headroom but I'm not sure if I will need it.

+built in fuses.

Thought? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
I'm not sure as to what the exact efficiency is on the kicker ZX amps, but they are one of the most efficient amps from what I've heard. I would go with the Kicker ZX750, it'll give you some head room, well not necessarily since the sub says it can take 500-1kw rms, but it'll be better. The ZX Line is a great line of amps by kicker, I'd recommend them. The rockford is good as well though, so really all the depends here is whether you like how the ZX looks and if you have the extra $70 (I find a lot of people on these forums are on really tight budgets)

 
Kind of a dumb question, but what do you guys mean by headroom? i mean i see it has something to do with giving the sub a little more power than the rms, but idk i need some clarification... errr noob i am

 
Well I'm in the process of downsizing my system so i need to find a new sub amp.
Going by JL site the sub can handle 500-1000rms. Most retails sites have this listed at 500rms. So i plan to run it around 500rms.

Rockford Fosgate P600.1bd

about 700 rms @ 2ohms

+cheaper[$70]

+More efficient?? Can't find any info on the kicker amp efficiency. RF claims 75-80% for this model.

+my front stage amp is a RF punch150.

Kicker zx750.1

about 900 rms @ 2 ohms

+more headroom but I'm not sure if I will need it.

+built in fuses.

Thought? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

500 RMS will have that sub right at home. I have the same one, going off a 500/1v2 and pounds pretty fierce.

 
Kind of a dumb question, but what do you guys mean by headroom? i mean i see it has something to do with giving the sub a little more power than the rms, but idk i need some clarification... errr noob i am
Well I've always thought of it as power over what the top RMS of the sub. For example, if you had a sub rated for 500W RMS and your amp would do 600W RMS, then you have 100W of headroom.

I've also had it explained to me like this- lets say that you feel like 500W RMS was enough power (think output) for your musical tastes. But you have an amp that will do 600W RMS, you set the gains on the amp to 500W RMS but you have an extra 100W for "headroom".

 
Just to add to what I said above.. by having headroom available in your amp you aren't causing it to work as hard to make the power needed. Thus it will run cooler and more efficient. This headroom above what you need also tends to lend itself to a more dynamic sound overall.

 
Another thing about head room, lets say the amp is rated for 600rms @2ohms[birth sheet 7xx @ 2ohms @ 14.4v]. In your car you won't have that 14.4v so the amp will never reach that birth sheet number.

The only downsize is that if you don't know how to correctly set the gains you can damage you sub.

 
Ive had a 750 and it was a great amp

It recntly went out on me but it was a very good amp while it was alive.

It was pushing 2 audiomobile mass 12's great.

No headlight dimming and very small voltage drops usually from 14.5-14.2

Set your gians right and this amp will make you very happy

well worth the money

 
Just to add to what I said above.. by having headroom available in your amp you aren't causing it to work as hard to make the power needed. Thus it will run cooler and more efficient.
Not sure where you heard this, but it's not really true.

Class A/B amps are notoriously less efficient at lower power levels than they are at higher power levels. Most will be in the 30-35% efficiency range at 1/3 power but around 50-65% at full power output. It might feel cooler to the touch since the gross heat dissipation is lower, but it's actually running less efficiently and net heat dissipation is proportionally higher.

Class D amps can follow the same pattern, but the disparity between the two efficiency figures will typically be much less.

 
Not sure where you heard this, but it's not really true.
Class A/B amps are notoriously less efficient at lower power levels than they are at higher power levels. Most will be in the 30-35% efficiency range at 1/3 power but around 50-65% at full power output. It might feel cooler to the touch since the gross heat dissipation is lower, but it's actually running less efficiently and net heat dissipation is proportionally higher.

Class D amps can follow the same pattern, but the disparity between the two efficiency figures will typically be much less.
Ugh semantics //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif ... Maybe I shouldn't use the word efficient, but lets face it.. If you need 100W RMS and your amp will only do 100W RMS you will have the gains set higher and potentially sending a clipped single. Whereas, if you needed 100W RMS and you have an amp that will do 200W RMS, then you will have the gains set lower, the amp will be much more effective at driving the speaker with authority and power to spare.

 
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